BABOR - HSR® lifting extra firming eye cream  30 ml

Results (from my.babor.com): It firms the eye area and optically lifts the upper lid. The cream provides an individual lifting experience, leaving your skin looking smoother, younger and more elastic.

Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil , Sorbitol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Decyl Oleate, Sunflower oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Mangifera indica seed oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol,  Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Dextrin, hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Carbomer, Carnosine, Isopropyl Myristate, Panicum Miliaceum Seed Extract, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Glycine soja protein, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Pisum sativum extract, Caprylyl glycol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium citrate, sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Potassium sorbate, Citric Acid, Tannic acid, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Hydroxide, Pantolactone, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Ascorbyl palmitate, Darutoside, Glyceryl Stearate, Hexapeptide-48 HCl, Glyceryl oleate 

This eye cream costs almost € 100 and the packaging, very elegant, reflects the price.

Negative note: both on the outside of the package and in the internal leaflet of instructions for use, written in many languages and rather stringent, I see no trace of the active ingredients that are mentioned generically, but whose name is not mentioned. 

Let's examine then the most significant ingredients in order of quantity as indicated on the label. Here is a brief summary for space reasons. For the full text, studies and bibliography just click on the ingredient and, if you want to delve deeper, it is a worthwhile read, perhaps a little difficult because these are scientific studies, but it clarifies the ingredient/health relationship.

Glycerin. Trivalent alcohol, hygroscopic, used in food as a stabilizing additive. In detergents, shampoos and other cosmetic products it is included in the formula with the aim of moisturizing and softening the skin, preserving it from aging or roughness.

Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate is a chemical compound of vegetable origin, an ester of stearic acid and glycerin, with a solid aspect and yellow color. It is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and emollient to improve the water/oil mixture and make it more uniform and homogeneous. 

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil,  sweet almond oil is obtained by cold pressing of almonds. It is a very useful component in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals and is used for: face masks, preventing stretch marks on the skin, treating skin cracks. No allergic contraindications.

Sorbitol. Il Sorbitolo, labelled as E420 in the list of food additives, it is found, in nature, in fruits such as pears, apples, cherries, sorb apples, plums, etc. but it is industrially obtained with a chemical process from glucose. In cosmetic products, it has the function of retaining water and is also used as a thickener and flow agent.

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, a butter obtained from the Shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa) contains vitamin E, carotene and has emollient and moisturizing properties. It is also used as a decongestant in inflammation of the nostrils.

Decyl Oleate, used by the cosmetic industry as an emollient in moisturizers, creams, sunscreens, lip balms, anti-aging serums and various makeup products has become a typical component in beauty and body care products as it makes the skin smooth and pleasant to the touch.

Sunflower oil. It is included in cosmetic formulations for its multiple properties: antioxidant, emollient, nourishing. Omega-6 contained in sunflower oil improves the formation of new skin cells and contributes to the decrease of skin irritation.

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate is a mixture of chemical compounds and is produced by industrial process from coconut oil or petroleum derived products. It is used by the cosmetic industry as an emollient, emulsifier and thickening agent. It is also used as dispersing agent, base oil agent and lip gloss agent in lipstick, agent in oil as softener in lotions and creams, as emollient in personal skin care products.

Cetearyl Alcohol, a chemical compound used in cosmetic products to give creamy texture.It can be used as a lubricant, emulsifier and thickener. Play a role of thickener in cosmetics and can reduce the amount of surfactant needed to form a stable system. It is suitable for all kinds of cosmetics especially for creams and lotions. 

Mangifera indica seed oil. Mango oil from the kernel has lower free fatty acids, carotenoid content and peroxide value, and is usually used without any processing, which is otherwise mandatory for commercial vegetable oils. Palmitic, stearic and oleic acids are the main fatty acids, and the triglyceride composition and fatty acid profile suggest a wide range of trans free options. In cosmetics, mango oil is used as an emulsifier to retain a certain amount of water especially in skin care products and to get it into the deeper layers of the epidermis. It is considered a moisturizer.

Tocopheryl acetate, a product of chemical, synthetic origin, has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and can reduce local bacterial growth, thereby promoting wound healing and skin regeneration. On the Babor website it is listed as Tocopherol acetate which is the same product, but natural, not chemical. Possibly present in an earlier version of this cream. A small step backwards.

Panthenol derived directly from Vitamin B5 or Pantothenic Acid, has favorable and long-lasting effects on barrier function and repair, as well as skin hydration without negatively affecting bacterial viability in the skin microflora, also regenerates the skin, helps its growth, helps provide energy to the body and has a positive effect on the epithelium in general. 

Phenoxyethanol, a broad-spectrum preservative used in cosmetics against Gram-negative bacteria, mold and yeast. It occurs naturally in green tea but is produced chemically using phenol and ethylene oxide. As with many other preservatives included in formulas in cosmetic products, the scientific literature warns about general and specific contraindications concerning the application of this preservative. Specifically, regarding the eyes, this 2020 study by Jingyi Wang et al. warns about the toxicity of Phenoxyethanol to the epithelial cells of the Meibomian gland, which secretes, via its ducts, the human tear film, a major source of lipids. You can read an abstract HERE

Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, an extract that has demonstrated a wide range of anti-inflammatory and sedative pharmacological properties.

Dextrin. In cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations, dextrin acts as a moisturizer and binding agent to prevent the various components from dispersing or losing uniformity. 

Hibiscus Esculentus Extract. In cosmetics, it is included in formulas for its softening properties on the skin.

Carbomer, a chemical compound derived from acrylic acid and is used as a stabilizer, thickener and emulsifier in cosmetic products.

Carnosine in cosmetic products helps prevent collagen cross-linking of the skin that leads to loss of elasticity and wrinkles.

Isopropyl myristate, a penetration enhancer commonly used in topical and transdermal formulations, in transdermal drug delivery.

Panicum Miliaceum Seed Extract. Millet is also rich in micronutrients such as niacin or Vitamin B3, B-complex vitamins, Vitamin B6 and folic acid, all of which are antioxidant components.

Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, a sodium salt used in soaps, cleansing creams and shampoos, as a surfactant, that is, it removes dirt particles.

Glycine soja protein, a natural component present in the epithelia and connective tissues of the flesh. It is obtained industrially from soy and is used in cosmetics to counteract the effects of loss of skin elasticity due to skin aging.

Ethylhexylglycerin, multifunctional additive for cosmetics and is used as a strengthening agent in combination with Phenoxyethanol to achieve better protection against microbial growth. This study explains the mechanism (2) and you can read an extract HERE

Lupinus Albus Seed Extract. Its seeds have high protein content, are used in food, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, contain 36-52% protein, 30-40% fiber and 5-20% essential oils, as well as oleic and linoleic acids, isoflavonoids, zeaxanthin, thiamine, riboflavin and niacin. So with positive effects on the epidermis in this case.

Pea extract used in cosmetic products has antibacterial properties and a peptide extracted from pea has demonstrated anti-aging properties. 

Caprylyl glycol is generally included in cosmetic products as a preservative and as a conditioning agent for the skin.

Disodium EDTA, a chemical compound used by the cosmetic industry with the function of avoiding unstable reactions of chemical components within a product. It also functions as an antioxidant and preservative.

Sodium citrate. In cosmetics, the inclusion of sodium citrate in the formula allows to maintain the pH at acceptable levels, regulate the overall acidity level and act as a preservative antioxidant.

Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, un composto chimico tensioattivo, un agente di pulizia anionico.

Potassium sorbate, preservative, antibacterial widely used in industry as it is considered safe and reliable.

Citric acid, a tricarboxylic acid and is obtained from lemon juice and other fruits, beet juice and other vegetables. Acidity regulator, antioxidant, preservative

Sodium benzoate, chemical compound that is used as a preservative in the food industry and in cosmetics for its anti-bacteria and anti-fungal properties

Sodium Hydroxide is included in the formula as an acidity regulator, emulsifier. It also serves to neutralize the unwanted effects of certain ingredients. In this cream, probably Carbomer.

Pantolactone, chemical compound with antibacterial properties and in cosmetics is usually included as an emollient.

Tocopherol  is the most important fat-soluble antioxidant, vitamin E.

Lecithin is a very complex natural product consisting of choline fatty acids, glycerol, lipids and phospholipids. I caution that some constituents of this component can be extracted from both vegetable fats and eggs. In cosmetic products, lecithin, which is biodegradable, performs the dual function of conditioning agent and surfactant (removes dirt particles) emulsifier.

Ascorbyl palmitate, chemical compound with emulsifying properties with high hydrophilic-lipophilic balance and performs activity as coemulsifying and antioxidant agent in drugs, vitamins and cosmetics.

Darutoside, natural diterpenoid, In cosmetics it is used as an anti-wrinkle and for its skin repair properties and restoration of the collagen matrix.

Glyceryl Stearate,  chemical compound with solubilizing and emulsifying function.

Hexapeptide-48 HCl, peptide, included in the formula of cosmetic products as a skin conditioner and protector with anti-wrinkle and anti-aging function.

Glyceryl oleate, solubilizing chemical compound, hydrophilic emulsifier of vegetable origin.

Conclusions

The vast majority of the components included in the formula, as we have seen, are safe and targeted for the purpose that this cream proposes. However, Phenoxyethanol is considered by researchers at Harvard Ophthalmology (Boston, MA, USA) to be less than curative for the eyes, the targeted goal of this cream. The study was published in 2020, probably the formula of this cream was created previously but the chemists of the manufacturer should have checked.  I have seen for myself that the manufacturers, in the event of any complaint about ingredients considered dangerous by recent studies, take refuge behind the phrase: "the ingredient is regularly authorised by the Control Authority." And after this answer, of course, there is no more dialogue.

Conclusion therefore sadly negative for this  expensive  cream  as I will not buy it again.

References_________________________________________________________________________

(1) Wang J, Liu Y, Kam WR, Li Y, Sullivan DA. Toxicity of the cosmetic preservatives parabens, phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin on human meibomian gland epithelial cells. Exp Eye Res. 2020 Jul;196:108057. doi: 10.1016/j.exer.2020.108057.

(2) Langsrud S, Steinhauer K, Lüthje S, Weber K, Goroncy-Bermes P, Holck AL. Ethylhexylglycerin Impairs Membrane Integrity and Enhances the Lethal Effect of Phenoxyethanol. PLoS One. 2016 Oct 26;11(10):e0165228. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0165228.