Review Harmonia formula HA3D 02 bio-lifting anti-aging serum 30 ml

What is it for?

Ingredients

Let us examine the most significant ingredients in order of quantity as indicated on the label. I provide a brief summary for reasons of space. For the full text, studies and bibliography, just click on the ingredient and, if you want to go deeper, it is perhaps a little complex reading because these are scientific studies, but it clarifies the ingredient/health relationship.

Glycerin  or glycerol. Trivalent alcohol, hygroscopic. Glycerol is the trade name when the percentage of glycerol exceeds 95%, but the names are mostly used to identify the same product. In cosmetic products, it is included in the formula for the purpose of moisturising and softening the skin, preserving it from ageing or roughness.

C12-C15 alkyl benzoate is composed of benzoic acid and long chain alcohol (12-15) and is used in cosmetic products for its emollient and lubricating properties.  It also reduces the perception of oil on the skin and increases spreadability. Other interesting characteristics are its extreme solubility and long-term retention of fragrance.

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter is a butter obtained from the Shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa) native to Africa, family Sapotaceae. This vegetable fat contains vitamin E, carotene, quercetin, epigallocatechin gallate and has emollient and moisturising properties.

Steareth-2. Emulsion stabiliser.  It is an ethoxylated (2 mol) polyethylene glycol (PEG) ether derived from palm kernel oils and coconut oils and fats. Safety.  The term 'eth' refers to the ethoxylation reaction with ethylene oxide, after which residues of ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, chemical compounds considered carcinogenic, may remain. The degree of safety therefore depends on the degree of purity of the compound obtained. At present, no manufacturer appears to provide this information on the label.

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil. Sweet almond oil obtained by cold-pressing almonds. Skin conditioning agent. 

Steareth-21.  Emulsion stabiliser.  For safety, the Steareth-2 guidelines apply.

Dicaprylyl carbonate. It is used in cosmetics as an emollient, lubricant and has a rather stable moisturising action on the skin.

Conclusions

It would be a good cream, but Steareth-2 and Steareth-21 are two ethoxylated ingredients in the 5th and 7th position respectively, so rather important as an overall weight.  It is not necessarily the case that harmful residues are there and in such quantities as to cause concern... but why take the risk?