Formaggio gorgonzola DOP

Formaggio erborinato a pasta cruda e molle/semi-molle ottenuto da latte vaccino (prevalentemente pastorizzato), inoculato con colture selezionate di Penicillium roqueforti e maturato in ambienti controllati nelle aree DOP di Lombardia e Piemonte. Esistono due tipologie principali: Gorgonzola dolce (cremoso, spalmabile) e Gorgonzola piccante (più asciutto, consistente e intensamente aromatico).

Valore calorico (per 100 g di prodotto)
In funzione di umidità e grasso: ~300–360 kcal/100 g.

Composizione e parametri tipici (per 100 g)
Acqua: dolce ~46–52%; piccante ~38–45%.
Grassi: ~27–33 g (FDM elevato).
Proteine: ~18–22 g (caseine).
Carboidrati (lattosio): tracce (generalmente non rilevabili a fine maturazione).
Sale (NaCl): ~1,5–2,5 g.
pH finale: tendenza neutra–debolmente alcalina in maturazione (~5,8–6,4) per l’attività del Penicillium.

Processo di produzione
Latte standardizzato → inoculo con starter lattici e P. roqueforti → caglio e coagulazione a bassa T → rottura in grani medio-grossi e messa in forma (senza cottura) → rivoltamenti e spurgo → salatura a secco o in salamoia → foratura (puntature) entro pochi giorni per favorire l’erborinatura → maturazione in celle cantina con T/UR controllate.
Tempi minimi: dolce ≥ 50 giorni; piccante in genere ≥ 80 giorni (più lungo per profilo intenso).
Tecniche di pasta: oggi il dolce è per lo più monopasta; il piccante può essere tradizionalmente a due paste (miscela di cagliate con differente acidificazione per accentuare friabilità e sapidità).

Proprietà sensoriali

• Aspetto: pasta bianco-paglierina con venature verdi/blu diffuse; crosta sottile, non edibile.

• Struttura: dolce morbida-cremosa e colante; piccante più compatta e friabile.

• Aroma/sapore: lattico-burroso con note di fungo, sottobosco, noce; il piccante presenta maggiore pungenza, sapidità e persistenza.

Impieghi gastronomici
Gorgonzola dolce: salse e fondute a bassa fiamma, risotti (mantecatura), gnocchi, polenta, pizze “bianca/4 formaggi”, panini gourmet e crudité.
Gorgonzola piccante: taglieri con miele, pere e frutta secca, ripieni (gnocchi/cannelloni), emulsioni per carni rosse e verdure grigliate.
Consigli d’uso: per salse evitare l’ebollizione (rischio separazione grasso); stabilizzare con panna o un addensante (roux/amidi). Per pizza, dosare il dolce per limitare l’acqua in forno.

Nutrizione e salute
Ricco di proteine ad alto valore biologico, calcio e vitamina B12; contiene grassi saturi e sodio in quantità rilevanti. Il lattosio è in genere molto basso per effetto di fermentazione e maturazione. Può contenere ammine biogene (es. tiramina): prudenza in soggetti sensibili o in terapia con IMAO. Per le donne in gravidanza, evitare il consumo a crudo di formaggi molli erborinati; sicuro se ben cotto.

Qualità e specifiche (temi tipici)
Uniformità dell’erborinatura, assenza di difetti cromatici/odorigeni; umidità coerente con lo stile; FDM, sale in umidità (S/M), pH in range; microbiologia conforme (gestione rigorosa del rischio Listeria). Marchiatura e tracciabilità DOP secondo Disciplinare.

Conservazione e shelf-life
0–6 °C, confezionato in fogli barriera o ATM. Evitare odori forti e cross-contaminazione di muffe verso prodotti sensibili. Una volta aperto, richiudere ermeticamente e consumare entro 5–7 giorni (dolce) o poco oltre (piccante), rimuovendo eventuali essudazioni. Portare a temperatura di servizio (≈16–18 °C) per massima espressione aromatica.

Allergeni e sicurezza
Contiene latte (allergene). Non idoneo a chi è allergico alle penicillium-muffe alimentari. In caso di intolleranza al lattosio, spesso tollerato meglio di formaggi freschi, ma la risposta è individuale.

Troubleshooting (cucina/servizio)

• Salsa che “strappa”: T troppo alta → sciogliere a bagnomaria con panna/latte e legare con amido.

• Amaro/percezione metallica: maturazione molto avanzata o calore eccessivo → scegliere lotto più giovane e cuocere dolcemente.

• Pasta troppo fluida nel dolce: eccesso di umidità → scolare/assorbire con carta e aggiungere a fine cottura.

Sostenibilità e filiera
Filiere DOP con origine latte controllata, gestione del siero (valorizzazione in ingredientistica), controllo BOD/COD degli effluenti, packaging riciclabile e catena del freddo efficiente.

Conclusione
Gorgonzola DOP è un erborinato iconico italiano: dolce per cremosità e versatilità, piccante per carattere e complessità. La resa dipende da gestione di pH e foratura, tempi di maturazione, stile (dolce vs piccante) e corretta temperatura di servizio.

Mini-glossario
Erborinatura — sviluppo di venature blu/verde da Penicillium nella pasta.
Foratura — puntatura delle forme per ossigenare e favorire la muffa.
FDM — grasso sulla sostanza secca.
S/M — sale sull’umidità della pasta.
DOP/PDO — denominazione d’origine protetta secondo il Disciplinare.

Bibliografia__________________________________________________________________________

Torri L, Aprea E, Piochi M, Cabrino G, Endrizzi I, Colaianni A, Gasperi F. Relationship between Sensory Attributes, (Dis) Liking and Volatile Organic Composition of Gorgonzola PDO Cheese. Foods. 2021 Nov 12;10(11):2791. doi: 10.3390/foods10112791.

Abstract  Blue-veined cheese tends to polarize the consumers' affective responses due to its strong flavor. This study aims to: (i) explore the consumers' sensory perceptions and liking of Gorgonzola PDO cheese; (ii) identify the sensory drivers of acceptance for Gorgonzola in the function of the cheese style; (iii) characterize them by the volatile organic compounds (VOCs); and (iv) explore the relationships of the VOCs with sensory perception and liking. Six samples of Gorgonzola cheese differing in style (sweet vs. piquant), aging time (70-95 days), and production process (artisanal vs. industrial) were evaluated by 358 subjects (46% males, 18-77 years) using liking and Rate-All-That-Apply (RATA) tests. The cheese VOCs were measured by SPME/GC-MS. Liking was significantly higher for the sweet cheese than for the piquant cheese and for the artisanal cheese than for the industrial samples. Penalty Analysis showed that 'creamy', 'sweet', 'nutty', and 'salty' were significant drivers of liking while the 'soapy' and 'ammonia' flavors turned out to be drivers of disliking. Fifty-three VOCs were identified. Regression models revealed the significant highest associations between the VOCs and 'ammonia', 'pungent', 'soapy', and 'moldy' flavors. A good association was also found with the consumers' liking. The identification of the sensory drivers of (dis) liking and their relationship with the VOCs of Gorgonzola opens up a new understanding of the consumers' blue-veined cheese preferences.

Carminati D, Gatti M, Bonvini B, Neviani E, Mucchetti G. High-pressure processing of Gorgonzola cheese: influence on Listeria monocytogenes inactivation and on sensory characteristics. J Food Prot. 2004 Aug;67(8):1671-5. doi: 10.4315/0362-028x-67.8.1671.

Abstract. The presence of Listeria monocytogenes on the rind of Gorgonzola cheese is difficult to avoid. This contamination can easily occur as a consequence of handling during ripening. The aims of this study were to determine the efficiency of high-pressure processing (HPP) for inactivation of L. monocytogenes on cheese rind and to evaluate the influence of HPP treatments on sensory characteristics. Gorgonzola cheese rinds, after removal, were inoculated (about 7.0 log CFU/g) with L. monocytogenes strains previously isolated from other Gorgonzola cheeses. The inoculated cheese rinds were processed with an HPP apparatus under conditions of pressure and time ranging from 400 to 700 MPa for 1 to 15 min. Pressures higher than 600 MPa for 10 min or 700 MPa for 5 min reduced L. monocytogenes more than 99%. A reduction higher than 99.999% was achieved pressurizing cheese rinds at 700 MPa for 15 min. Lower pressure or time treatments were less effective and varied in effectiveness with the cheese sample. Changes in sensory properties possibly induced by the HPP were evaluated on four different Gorgonzola cheeses. A panel of 18 members judged the treated and untreated cheeses in a triangle test. Only one of the four pressurized cheeses was evaluated as different from the untreated sample. HPP was effective in the reduction of L. monocytogenes on Gorgonzola cheese rinds without significantly changing its sensory properties. High-pressure technology is a useful tool to improve the safety of this type of cheese.

Panebianco F, Rubiola S, Buttieri C, Di Ciccio PA, Chiesa F, Civera T. Understanding the Effect of Ozone on Listeria monocytogenes and Resident Microbiota of Gorgonzola Cheese Surface: A Culturomic Approach. Foods. 2022 Aug 31;11(17):2640. doi: 10.3390/foods11172640. 

Abstract. The occurrence of Listeria monocytogenes on Gorgonzola cheese surface was reported by many authors, with risks arising from the translocation of the pathogen inside the product during cutting procedures. Among the novel antimicrobial strategies, ozone may represent a useful tool against L. monocytogenes contamination on Gorgonzola cheese rind. In this study, the effect of gaseous ozone (2 and 4 ppm for 10 min) on L. monocytogenes and resident microbiota of Gorgonzola cheese rind stored at 4 °C for 63 days was evaluated. A culturomic approach, based on the use of six media and identification of colonies by MALDI-TOF MS, was used to analyse variations of resident populations. The decrease of L. monocytogenes was less pronounced in ozonised rinds with final loads of ~1 log CFU/g higher than controls. This behaviour coincided with a lower maximum population density of lactobacilli in treated samples at day 28. No significant differences were detected for the other microbial determinations and resident microbiota composition among treated and control samples. The dominant genera were Candida, Carnobacterium, Staphylococcus, Penicillium, Saccharomyces, Aerococcus, Yarrowia, and Enterococcus. Based on our results, ozone was ineffective against L. monocytogenes contamination on Gorgonzola rinds. The higher final L. monocytogenes loads in treated samples could be associated with a suppressive effect of ozone on lactobacilli, since these are antagonists of L. monocytogenes. Our outcomes suggest the potential use of culturomics to study the ecosystems of complex matrices, such as the surface of mould and blue-veined cheeses.

Vallone L, Giardini A, Soncini G. Secondary Metabolites from Penicillium roqueforti, A Starter for the Production of Gorgonzola Cheese. Ital J Food Saf. 2014 Sep 11;3(3):2118. doi: 10.4081/ijfs.2014.2118. 

Abstract. The presence of mold in food, although necessary for production, can involve the presence of secondary metabolites, which are sometimes toxic. Penicillium roqueforti is a common saprophytic fungus but it is also the essential fungus used in the production of Roquefort cheese and other varieties of blue cheese containing internal mold. The study was conducted on industrial batches of Penicillium roqueforti starters used in the production of the Gorgonzola cheese, with the aim to verify the production of secondary metabolites. Nine Penicillium roqueforti strains were tested. The presence of roquefortine C, PR toxin and mycophenolic acid was tested first in vitro, then on bread-like substrate and lastly in vivo in nine cheese samples produced with the same starters and ready to market. In vitro, only Penicillium out of nine produced roquefortine C, four starters showed mycophenolic acid production, while no significant amounts of PR toxin were detected. In the samples grown on bread-like substrate, Penicillium did not produce secondary metabolites, likewise with each cheese samples tested. To protect consumers' health and safety, the presence of mycotoxins needs to be verified in food which is widely consumed, above all for products protected by the protected denomination of origin (DOP) label (i.e. a certificate guaranteeing the geographic origin of the product), such as Gorgonzola cheese.

Costa A, Bertolotti L, Brito L, Civera T. Biofilm Formation and Disinfectant Susceptibility of Persistent and Nonpersistent Listeria monocytogenes Isolates from Gorgonzola Cheese Processing Plants. Foodborne Pathog Dis. 2016 Nov;13(11):602-609. doi: 10.1089/fpd.2016.2154.

Abstract. The aim of this study was to investigate whether the biofilm-forming ability and/or the disinfectant susceptibility accounted for the persistence of Listeria monocytogenes in Gorgonzola cheese processing plants. For this purpose, a set of 16 L. monocytogenes isolates collected in the 2004-2007 period was analyzed, including 11 persistent isolates collected in different years, within the collection period, and displaying identical or highly correlated pulsotypes. The evaluation of biofilm-forming ability was assessed using crystal violet (CV) staining and the enumeration of viable cells on stainless steel coupons (SSC). Absorbance values obtained with CV staining for persistent and nonpersistent isolates were not significantly different (rm-ANOVA p > 0.05) and the cell counts from nonpersistent isolates showed to be higher compared with persistent isolates (rm-ANOVA p < 0.05). A simulation of disinfectant treatments was performed on spot inoculated coupons in clean and dirty conditions, according to EN 13697, and on biofilms on SSC, grown in nutrient-rich (dirty) and limiting (clean) conditions using acid acetic-hydrogen peroxide (P3) and acid citric-hydrogen peroxide (MS) commercial disinfectants. The treatment was considered effective when a 4 Log reduction in viable cell count was observed. The Log reductions of persistent and nonpersistent isolates, obtained with both the assays in clean and dirty conditions, were compared and no significant differences were detected (rm-ANOVA p > 0.05). A greater influence of organic matter on MS could explain why P3 was efficient in reducing to effective levels the majority of the isolates at the lowest concentration suggested by the manufacturer (0.2% [v/v]), while the same purpose required a higher concentration (1% [v/v]) of MS. In conclusion, our results demonstrate that the persistence of these isolates in Gorgonzola cheese processing plants was linked neither to the biofilm-forming ability nor to their susceptibility to hydrogen peroxide-based disinfectants; therefore, other factors should contribute to the persistent colonization of the dairies.

Lomonaco S, Decastelli L, Nucera D, Gallina S, Manila Bianchi D, Civera T. Listeria monocytogenes in Gorgonzola: subtypes, diversity and persistence over time. Int J Food Microbiol. 2009 Jan 15;128(3):516-20. doi: 10.1016/j.ijfoodmicro.2008.10.009. 

Abstract. L. monocytogenes represents a primary concern in the production of Gorgonzola, a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Italian blue-veined cheese produced only in the Piedmont and Lombardy regions. L. monocytogenes isolates (N=95) obtained from Gorgonzola rinds, paste, and production/ripening environments were serotyped and then genotyped using Pulsed Field Gel Electrophoresis (PFGE). The goal of this study was to investigate the variability of L. monocytogenes PFGE-types across different PDO Gorgonzola manufacturers (N=22). The majority of the strains (88%) were serotyped as 1/2a. PFGE identified 2 major pulse-types grouping 62 strains, detected from different plants and years, suggesting the presence of persistent and niche-adapted L. monocytogenes. In 9 plants, environmental strains shared the same pulse-types with strains from rinds or paste, suggesting a possible transmission pathway. Encouragingly, L. monocytogenes was retrieved from only 1 paste, indicating that production processes were under control in 21 plants. In the remaining plant, un-effective pasteurization or cross-contamination during production processes could be the cause of the contamination. Consequently, it is imperative that producers operate under the total respect of the Good Manufacturing Practices and following the principles of the Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point plans, in order to contain contamination throughout the whole processing.

Molinari GP, Fontana G, Carrara G. Evaluation of herbicide migration from water to gorgonzola and mozzarella cheeses in industrial processing. Food Addit Contam. 1995 Mar-Apr;12(2):195-201. doi: 10.1080/02652039509374294. 

Abstract. The possibility of migration of atrazine, simazine, terbuthylazine, molinate and bentazon herbicides from contaminated water used in the manufacture of gorgonzola and mozzarella cheeses was verified in an industrial plant in an agricultural area in northern Italy. In a milk-processing plant, water samples were drawn from five wells; samples of milk, curd and finished products were collected from the respective production lines. In all samples, the herbicide residues were detected by gas chromatographic analysis. The results show that herbicide residues detected in water were not found in the finished products even if residues were found in the intermediate products (curd).