Polyglyceryl-10 Nonaisostearate is an ester formed by the reaction of a glycerin polymer containing 10 glycerin units with isostearic acid. This compound is specifically the nonaester of decaglycerol (polyglycerol with 10 glycerin units) and isostearic acid. it is valued for its emollient, emulsifying, and moisturizing properties, making it useful in various cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications.

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION AND STRUCTURE

Chemically, polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate consists of a polyglycerol backbone with ten glycerin units esterified with isostearic acid. this structure imparts unique moisturizing and emulsifying properties to the compound:

Polyglycerol Backbone: a polymer of glycerin, which imparts hydrophilic (water-attracting) properties.

Isostearic Acid: a branched fatty acid that adds hydrophobic (water-repelling) properties, enhancing the compound’s ability to blend oil and water phases.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

• Appearance: generally a clear to pale yellow liquid.
• Odor: characteristic mild odor.
• Solubility: insoluble in water, but dispersible in oils and some organic solvents.
• Density: varies based on specific formulation and concentration of the ester.
• Viscosity: moderate to high, depending on concentration, contributing to its thickening properties in formulations.

PRODUCTION PROCESS

Preparation of Polyglyceryl-10: glycerin is polymerized to form polyglyceryl-10.

Esterification: polyglyceryl-10 is reacted with isostearic acid under controlled temperature and pressure conditions to form the ester.

Filtration and Purification: the resulting ester is filtered and purified to remove impurities and obtain a high-quality product.

Packaging and Storage: the final product is packaged and stored in a cool, dry place to maintain its properties.

APPLICATIONS

Medical: used in topical formulations for its emollient and moisturizing properties, helping to improve skin health and repair the skin barrier.

Cosmetics: commonly found in creams, lotions, emulsions, and hair care products as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent. enhances the texture, spreadability, and stability of cosmetic products.

Skin Care: improves hydration and skin texture in products like moisturizers, serums, and creams.

Hair Care: provides conditioning effects and improves the spreadability of hair care formulations.

Makeup: used in foundations, lipsticks, and other color cosmetics for improved application and feel.

INCI Functions:

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

Industrial: utilized as a non-toxic, biodegradable emulsifier and stabilizer in various industrial formulations, including lubricants and surface treatment agents.

ENVIRONMENTAL AND SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS

Biodegradability: polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate is biodegradable, making it environmentally friendly and suitable for eco-conscious formulations.

Toxicity: generally considered non-toxic and safe for use in personal care and pharmaceutical products. however, it is essential to ensure that the product is free from contaminants and complies with regulatory standards.

Allergenicity: as with all chemical and natural compounds, individual reactions of intolerance or allergy cannot be excluded.

References__________________________________________________________________________

Fiume, Monice M., et al. Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics. International journal of toxicology 42.2_suppl (2023): 5S-101S.

Abstract. The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 274 polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. Each of the esters in this group is a polyether comprising 2 to 20 glyceryl residues, end-capped by esterification with simple carboxylic acids, such as fatty acids. Most of these ingredients are reported to function in cosmetics as skin-conditioning agents and/or surfactants. The Panel reviewed the available data and considered conclusions from their relevant previous reports, and determined that these ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-irritating.

de Clermont-Gallerande, H., Abidh, S., Lauer, A., Navarro, S., Cuvelier, G., & Delarue, J. (2018). Relations between the sensory properties and fat ingredients of lipsticks. OCL, 25(5), D502.

Abstract. Lipstick is a key product in the make-up sector. A woman applies lipstick to feel feminine and attractive. The sensation she perceives when she applies the product plays an important role in her attachment to her lipstick. The impact of the ingredients on the sensory properties and the quality of the lipsticks needs to be understood, so that the formulation can be more effective and the sensory properties can be precisely adjusted to the target market. During this study, multidimensional correlations were made between the percentage of ingredients, their physico-chemical specifications and the sensory properties of the raw materials on their own or the lipsticks. The objective of this study is to predict the sensory properties of lipsticks from the physico-chemical specifications of the ingredients. It is in effect quicker to access the physical data than the sensory descriptions. The lipsticks were made using a simplified formula, evaluated in a sensory analysis and their physico-chemical characteristics were measured. The relationships between the sensory properties, the ingredient specifications and their percentage of use in the formula were highlighted. The results confirm the major role of the viscosity of oils and the wax used in the formula on the sensory and mechanical properties of the lipstick. It is therefore possible to modify the sensory properties, for example to adjust the shininess of a lipstick, without altering its mechanical resistance. This opens up opportunities for developing innovative sensory textures in short lead times.