Polyglyceryl-3 Sorbityl Glycyrrhetinate is a specialized cosmetic ingredient used primarily as an emulsifier and skin conditioning agent in skincare products. It is created by the reaction of glycyrrhetinic acid with the sorbitol ether of polyglycerin-3. This ingredient is renowned for its soothing, anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to enhance the texture and efficacy of cosmetic formulations.

Chemical Composition and Structure

This compound combines the skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties of glycyrrhetinic acid, a component derived from licorice root known for its beneficial effects on sensitive and irritated skin, with the emollient and stabilizing properties of polyglycerin-3. The sorbitol ether component enhances the solubility and application properties, making it highly effective in both water-based and anhydrous cosmetic systems.

Physical Properties

Polyglyceryl-3 Sorbityl Glycyrrhetinate typically appears as a viscous, semi-transparent liquid. It is well-suited for formulation in a variety of cosmetic products due to its excellent solubility in both water and oils, enabling it to integrate seamlessly into different types of formulations.

Production Process

Synthesis: The synthesis involves esterifying glycyrrhetinic acid with a sorbitol ether derivative of polyglycerin-3. This reaction is usually carried out under controlled conditions to ensure precise ester linkage and high product purity.
Purification: Following synthesis, the product undergoes various purification steps to remove unreacted materials and by-products, ensuring high purity and quality suitable for cosmetic use.
Quality Control: Rigorous testing is conducted on the final product to assess its purity, stability, and compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients. Tests often include stability testing under different conditions, performance evaluations, and safety assessments.

Applications

Cosmetic Products: Commonly used in creams, lotions, and serums intended for sensitive or irritated skin, where it functions as an effective emulsifier and provides soothing properties.
Skin Care: Particularly beneficial in formulations designed to calm redness and irritation, such as after-sun products, anti-aging treatments, and products targeting skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis.
Makeup: Enhances the application and feel of makeup products, contributing to a smoother finish and longer-lasting wear.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Polyglyceryl-3 Sorbityl Glycyrrhetinate is considered safe for use in cosmetic products and is generally well-tolerated by the skin. It is non-irritating and suitable for use on sensitive skin types. As it is derived from natural sources like licorice and polyglycerin, it is also viewed as an environmentally friendly ingredient. Usage within recommended concentrations is crucial to maintain safety and effectiveness.

INCI


Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
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