Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract is derived from the seeds, bark, leaves, and flowers of the Horse Chestnut tree, which belongs to the Hippocastanaceae family. This extract is widely used in the cosmetic and personal care industry for its anti-inflammatory, astringent, and antioxidant properties.
Chemical Composition and Structure
Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract contains a variety of bioactive compounds that contribute to its beneficial properties:
Aescin: A mixture of saponins known for its anti-inflammatory and vasoprotective effects.
Flavonoids: Antioxidants that help protect the skin from environmental stressors.
Tannins: Known for their astringent properties, helping to tighten and tone the skin.
Coumarins: Organic compounds with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
Physical Properties
Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract typically appears as a light brown to amber liquid or powder. It is soluble in water and alcohol, making it suitable for various cosmetic formulations. The extract has a mild, characteristic scent.
Cosmetic and Personal Care Applications
Anti-inflammatory: Helps to reduce inflammation and soothe irritated skin.
Astringent: Tightens and tones the skin, making it appear firmer and smoother.
Antioxidant: Protects the skin from free radical damage and environmental stressors.
Vasoprotective: Improves microcirculation and strengthens capillaries, beneficial for treating conditions like spider veins and puffiness.
Soothing: Provides a calming effect on the skin, reducing redness and irritation.
Environmental and Safety Considerations
Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract is generally considered safe for use in cosmetic and personal care products when used within recommended concentrations. It is biodegradable and environmentally friendly. Sustainable harvesting practices are important to ensure the preservation of Horse Chestnut trees and their natural habitat.
Cosmetics - INCI Functions
Antioxidant agent. Ingredient that counteracts oxidative stress and prevents cell damage. Free radicals, pathological inflammatory processes, reactive nitrogen species and reactive oxygen species are responsible for the ageing process and many diseases caused by oxidation.
Cosmetic astringent. This ingredient exerts a direct effect on the skin by tightening dilated pores by contracting stratum corneum cells and removing superfluous oil.
Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.
Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
Skin protectant. It creates a protective barrier on the skin to defend it from harmful substances, irritants, allergens, pathogens that can cause various inflammatory conditions. These products can also improve the natural skin barrier and in most cases more than one is needed to achieve an effective result.
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CAS: 8053-39-2 EC number 232-497-7