Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Water is a compound of natural origin. 

Leontopodium Alpinum flower/leaf water, also known as edelweiss water, is widely used in cosmetics and skincare products. This ingredient is valued for its antioxidant, soothing, and protective properties, making it ideal for products aimed at sensitive skin and combating signs of aging.

Origin. Extracted from the Leontopodium Alpinum plant, commonly known as edelweiss, which grows in the mountainous regions of Europe.

Functions of Raw Materials.

Edelweiss Flower/Leaf. Rich in compounds such as leontopodic acid, flavonoids, and phenols, known for their excellent antioxidant properties and the ability to protect the skin from environmental damage.

Industrial Production Process

• Harvesting. The flowers and leaves of edelweiss are delicately harvested to preserve their active ingredients.
• Extraction. Water is extracted from the flowers and leaves through a gentle distillation process, which helps to preserve the active compounds.
• Filtration and Purification. After extraction, the water is filtered and purified to ensure maximum quality and purity.
• Quality Control. Each batch of Leontopodium Alpinum flower/leaf water undergoes quality testing to ensure its efficacy and safety.

What it is for and where

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss.  Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Humectant. Hygroscopic compound used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis.  The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: horny, the most superficial, granular, spinous, shiny, and basal. Humectants have the ability to retain the water they attract from the air in the stratum corneum and have the function of moisturising the skin. They are best used before emollients, which are oil-based.

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

Form and Color

Leontopodium Alpinum flower/leaf water appears as a clear and colorless liquid, with a slight natural aroma.

Leontopodium alpinum, known as Edelweiss, is an alpine plant that grows in high mountains with a distinctive flower. It is a rare plant and a protected species.

Phytochemical analysis found the presence of flavonoids and leontopodic acid and demonstrated potential DNA protective, antioxidant and antibacterial activity (1).

A recent study also demonstrated an anti-aging effect on the skin (2), and its extract (0.001%) is capable, used in a targeted manner directly at the site where it will be able to perform its efficacy, of inhibiting hair loss in female and male subjects by supporting hair follicle growth (3).

Protection Against Blue Light Damage. Research has shown that extracts from Leontopodium alpinum callus culture (LACCE) can be effective in protecting human skin cells from damage caused by blue light. This is particularly significant for skincare, as blue light from screens can contribute to skin aging and damage. The studies found that LACCE can promote collagen production, reduce harmful enzyme secretion, and decrease reactive oxygen species and calcium influx in skin cells. This suggests that LACCE could be a valuable ingredient in skincare products designed to protect against blue light (4).

Active Components and Mechanisms. Further investigation into the active components of LACCE identified several compounds, such as chlorogenic acid, isoquercitrin, and leontopodic acids, which contribute to its protective effects. These components were found to enhance skin cell viability and reduce damage markers when exposed to blue light. This research provides a deeper understanding of how LACCE works at a molecular level and supports its potential use in pharmaceutical and skincare products.

Cultivation and Biotechnological Production. Given that Leontopodium alpinum is a protected species in some European countries, there's interest in sustainable cultivation and biotechnological production methods. Studies have compared different cultivation techniques, including the use of gamma irradiation, to enhance the production of valuable compounds in the plant. This research is crucial for ensuring sustainable and ethical sourcing of Leontopodium alpinum for commercial use.

References_________________________________________________________________________

(1) Schwaiger, Stefan, et al. "Leontopodic acid—a novel highly substituted glucaric acid derivative from Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum Cass.) and its antioxidative and DNA protecting properties." Tetrahedron 61.19 (2005): 4621-4630.

Abstract. Leontopodic acid—a novel full substituted hexaric acid derivative, was isolated from the aerial parts of Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum Cass.) as one of the major compounds. The complex structure of leontopodic acid-2-[(3S)-3-hydroxybutanoate]-3,4,5-tris-[(2E)-3-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)-2-propenoate]-d-glucaric acid—was elucidated by mass spectrometry, 1D- and 2D NMR spectroscopy and HPLC monitored transesterification. Leontopodic acid exhibited pronounced antioxidative effects in the Briggs-Rauscher (BR) model [(r.a.c.)m 3.4±0.5] and the trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC) method (TEAC value of 1.53±0.11). The antioxidative properties of this compound were confirmed by the 3D method, an in vitro assay evaluating DNA protection against oxidative damage (IC50: 1.89 μM).

(2) Cho WK, Kim HI, Kim SY, Seo HH, Song J, Kim J, Shin DS, Jo Y, Choi H, Lee JH, Moh SH. Anti-Aging Effects of Leontopodium alpinum (Edelweiss) Callus Culture Extract Through Transcriptome Profiling. Genes (Basel). 2020 Feb 21;11(2):230. doi: 10.3390/genes11020230. PMID: 32098197; PMCID: PMC7074254.

Abstract. Edelweiss (Leontopodium Alpinum) in the family Asteraceae is a wildflower that grows in rocky limestone places. Here, we investigated the efficacy of edelweiss callus culture extract (Leontopodium Alpinum callus culture extract; LACCE) using multiple assays from in vitro to in vivo as well as transcriptome profiling. Several in vitro assay results showed the strong antioxidant activity of LACCE in response to UVB treatment. Moreover, LACCE suppressed inflammation and wrinkling; however, moisturizing activity was increased by LACCE. The clinical test in vivo demonstrated that constant application of LACCE on the face and skin tissues improved anti-periorbital wrinkles, skin elasticity, dermal density, and skin thickness compared with the placebo. The RNA-Sequencing results showed at least 16.56% of human genes were expressed in keratinocyte cells. LACCE up-regulated genes encoding several KRT proteins; DDIT4, BNIP3, and IGFBP3 were involved in the positive regulation of the developmental process, programmed cell death, keratinization, and cornification forming skin barriers, which provide many advantages in the human skin. By contrast, down-regulated genes were stress-responsive genes, including metal, oxidation, wounding, hypoxia, and virus infection, suggesting LACCE did not cause any harmful stress on the skin. Our comprehensive study demonstrated LACCE is a promising agent for anti-aging cosmetics.

(3) Campiche R, Le Riche A, Edelkamp J, Botello AF, Martin E, Gempeler M, Bertolini M. An extract of Leontopodium alpinum inhibits catagen development ex vivo and increases hair density in vivo. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Jun;44(3):363-376. doi: 10.1111/ics.12783. Epub 2022 Jun 6. PMID: 35514231; PMCID: PMC9328135.

Abstract. Objectives. Hair loss and reduction in hair volume are hallmarks of hair disorders, such as telogen effluvium, or male or female pattern hair loss, and hair ageing, which can cause severe distress in both men and women. Common anti‐hair loss drugs carry some side effects; therefore, novel, safer approaches targeting milder phenotypes are highly advocated. In this context, we investigated an extract of the alpine plant Edelweiss, Leontopodium alpinum var. Helvetia, for its ability to modulate hair follicle (HF) growth ex vivo and inhibit hair loss while increasing hair regeneration in vivo....Conclusions. We show here, through several lines of evidence, that the selected extract of the alpine plant Leontopodium alpinum var Helvetia (Edelweiss) inhibits premature catagen induction, possibly by stimulating dermal papilla inductivity. It is therefore worth exploiting this extract clinically as an anti‐hair loss agent, both for preventing ageing‐associated hair shedding and as an adjuvant therapy for hair loss disorders. Methods. Human amputated HFs were microdissected from three donors, two women and one man, and cultured ex vivo for 6 days. After treatment with 0.001% Edelweiss extract (EWDE), we investigated hair shaft production and anagen/catagen conversion, and measured known parameters associated with hair growth, that is hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation and apoptosis, dermal papilla inductivity, and growth factors, by quantitative (immuno)histomorphometry. To assess the anti‐hair loss potential of the alpine plant compound, we performed a randomized, placebo‐controlled human study enrolling Caucasian women and men, aged 18 to 65 years, with normal hair loss. After 5 months’ daily use of an extract containing leave‐on serum, we analysed hair density and anagen‐to‐catagen/telogen ratio by the Trichogram analysis....Conclusions. We show here, through several lines of evidence, that the selected extract of the alpine plant Leontopodium alpinum var Helvetia (Edelweiss) inhibits premature catagen induction, possibly by stimulating dermal papilla inductivity. It is therefore worth exploiting this extract clinically as an anti‐hair loss agent, both for preventing ageing‐associated hair shedding and as an adjuvant therapy for hair loss disorders.

(4) Li H, Meng X, Zhang Y, Guo M, Li L. Active Components of Leontopodium alpinum Callus Culture Extract for Blue Light Damage in Human Foreskin Fibroblasts. Molecules. 2023 Oct 28;28(21):7319. doi: 10.3390/molecules28217319.