Acetyl Octapeptide-3, also known as Snap-8, is a synthetic peptide primarily used in anti-aging products for its ability to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Derived from Octapeptide, this compound is a biomimetic neuropeptide that mimics the action of botulinum toxin (Botox) but in a less invasive manner. It works by reducing facial muscle contractions, one of the main factors responsible for the formation of expression wrinkles.
Chemical Composition and Structure
Acetyl Octapeptide-3 consists of a chain of eight amino acids modified with an acetyl group. This structure mimics a natural protein that helps relax the microcontractions of facial muscles, thereby reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Its mechanism of action is similar to Botox, but without injections and with milder, more gradual effects.
The name describes the structure of the molecule
- "Acetyl" refers to an acetyl group, which is a derivative of acetic acid. This group is often added to molecules to improve their stability or functionality.
- "Octapeptide" refers to an acetyl group, which is a derivative of acetic acid. This group is often added to molecules to improve their stability or functionality.
- "3" is a specific identifier that distinguishes this particular octapeptide from others.
Description of raw materials used in production
- Amino Acids - The building blocks of proteins, required for synthesizing the peptide.
- Acetylcholine - A molecule that functions as a neurotransmitter; used to produce the acetyl group in the peptide.
- Peptide coupling reagents - Used to facilitate the formation of peptide bonds between amino acids.
Production Process
Acetyl Octapeptide-3 is synthetically produced through peptide synthesis, replicating the specific sequence of amino acids. This process is carefully controlled to ensure purity and efficacy, resulting in a safe product for cosmetic use.
Preparation of Components: The main ingredients for producing Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine include stearic acid, dimethylaminopropylamine, and appropriate reagents for the reaction.
Synthesis of the Amide: Stearic acid is mixed with dimethylaminopropylamine in a chemical reactor. During this process, stearic acid reacts with dimethylaminopropylamine to form the amide, generating Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine. This step occurs in the presence of heat and, sometimes, in the presence of a catalyst to accelerate the reaction.
Purification: The resulting product is purified to remove any impurities and chemical residues. This may include filtration and distillation processes to achieve a high-quality product.
Quality Control and Packaging: Finally, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine undergoes quality control checks to verify its purity and functional properties. After analysis, it is packaged for distribution and use in cosmetic and hair care products.
Physical Properties
It appears as a white, water-soluble powder used primarily in serums, creams, and topical treatments. It is highly stable in aqueous solutions and can be easily incorporated into cosmetic formulations, especially in anti-aging products.

What it is for and where
Medical
Acetyl Octapeptide-3 represents an opportunity to address premature skin aging and is used in hyaluronic acid microneedle patches (1).
Applications
Anti-aging Treatments: Used in creams and serums to visibly reduce the depth of wrinkles and expression lines, especially around the forehead and eye area.
Lifting and Firming Products: Employed in formulations aimed at improving skin elasticity and firmness, providing a "lifting" effect without invasive treatments.
Facial Serums and Creams: Incorporated into beauty treatments to prevent the formation of new wrinkles by acting as a muscle relaxant on the skin's surface.
Commercial Applications
Cosmetics. Employed in serums, creams, and lotions for its ability to diminish the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
Anti-Aging Products. Due to its anti-wrinkle properties, it's a common ingredient in anti-aging products.
Medical Applications
Research. Studied for its potential benefits in enhancing the skin's appearance and reducing wrinkles.
Non-Invasive Treatments. Viewed as an alternative to invasive cosmetic treatments.
Health and Safety Considerations
Safety in Use
Acetyl Octapeptide-3 is considered safe for use in cosmetic products. It does not cause significant side effects such as irritation or allergic reactions and is well-tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive skin. However, as with any topical product, it is always advisable to perform a patch test before use.
Allergic Reactions
Allergic reactions to Acetyl Octapeptide-3 are extremely rare due to its synthetic origin and its specific mechanism of action, which works at a superficial muscle level without deeply penetrating the skin.
Toxicity and Carcinogenicity
It has been extensively studied and approved for cosmetic use by major regulatory authorities.
Environmental Considerations
As a synthetic compound, Acetyl Octapeptide-3 is not as biodegradable as natural ingredients. However, its use in low concentrations in cosmetic products and its controlled production minimize its environmental impact.
Regulatory Status
Acetyl Octapeptide-3 is approved for use in cosmetics by major regulatory authorities, including the European Union and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States.
- Molecular Formula C42H72N16O15S
- Molecular Weight 1073.2 g/mol
- CAS 868844-74-0
- UNII 8K14HJF88S
- EC Number
- DTXSID70235943
References_____________________________________________________________________
(1) Avcil M, Akman G, Klokkers J, Jeong D, Çelik A. Efficacy of bioactive peptides loaded on hyaluronic acid microneedle patches: A monocentric clinical study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020 Feb;19(2):328-337. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13009.