Stearalkonium Hectorite is a modified organic clay derivative used as a thickening, stabilizing, and suspending agent in various cosmetic formulations. This ingredient, derived from hectorite, a type of smectite clay, is treated with stearalkonium, a quaternary ammonium salt, to improve its dispersion and stability in oil-based products. It is widely used in cosmetics and personal care products to enhance texture, stabilize emulsions, and control viscosity.
Chemical Composition and Structure
Stearalkonium Hectorite is composed of hectorite, a magnesium-based silicate mineral, combined with stearalkonium, a quaternary ammonium compound. The organic modification of the clay allows for better compatibility with oil-based formulations, enabling it to form gels or stabilize emulsions. This structure makes it highly effective as a thickening agent in oil-based products.
Physical Properties
It appears as a fine, white powder, insoluble in water but dispersible in oils and organic solvents. It has excellent gelling properties in oil-based solvents and can be used to stabilize oil and water systems, controlling viscosity and improving product texture.
Production Process
Stearalkonium Hectorite is produced through a chemical process in which hectorite clay is modified with stearalkonium salt. This process transforms the natural clay into an organophilic form, making it more easily dispersible in oils and organic solvents. The result is a versatile ingredient that can be used to thicken and stabilize cosmetic formulations.
Extraction of Hectorite: Hectorite is a type of clay that is extracted from mineral deposits. The clay is collected, cleaned, and processed to remove impurities.
Chemical Modification: The raw hectorite is then subjected to a chemical modification process. In this step, the clay is treated with stearamide or another quaternary ammonium compound, such as stearalkonium chloride. This treatment alters the properties of the clay, making it more suitable for cosmetic applications.
Mixing and Dispersion: After the chemical modification, the modified hectorite is dispersed in an appropriate solvent, such as water or a mixture of solvents. During this phase, the mixture is stirred to ensure uniform dispersion of the material.
Purification: The resulting product is purified to remove any residues and ensure high quality. This may include filtration and washing processes.
Quality Control and Packaging: Finally, Stearalkonium Hectorite undergoes quality control checks to verify its purity and functional properties. After analysis, it is packaged for distribution and use in cosmetic and skincare products.
Applications
Skincare: Used in creams, lotions, and serums to stabilize emulsions and improve texture. It helps maintain product stability over time, preventing the separation of oil and water.
Haircare: Employed in hair products like conditioners and leave-in treatments to improve product texture, making it easier to apply and distribute evenly through the hair.
Makeup Products: Stearalkonium Hectorite is used in makeup products such as foundations and lipsticks to enhance stability and texture, ensuring smooth and even application.
INCI Functions:
Suspending agent. Non surfactant. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical suspensions are known to be thermodynamically unstable and it is therefore essential to include in the formulation a suspending agent capable of dispersing any sedimented particulates and reducing the rate of sedimentation. The presence of this agent increases the consistency of the suspension medium and exerts a protective colloidal action.
CAS: 12691-60-0, 94891-33-5
Health and Safety Considerations
Safety in Use
Stearalkonium Hectorite is considered safe for use in cosmetics. It is not known to cause skin irritation or sensitization and is commonly used in products for all skin types, including sensitive skin. Regulatory authorities allow its use in standard concentrations in cosmetic products.
Allergic Reactions
Allergic reactions to Stearalkonium Hectorite are rare. However, as with any cosmetic product, it is advisable to patch test the product on a small area of skin before use.
Toxicity and Carcinogenicity
It has been extensively tested and is considered safe by major regulatory authorities, including the European Union and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States.
Environmental Considerations
As a derivative of natural clay, Stearalkonium Hectorite is biodegradable and poses no significant environmental risk. However, as with any mineral-based ingredient, the extraction of hectorite should be conducted sustainably to minimize environmental impact.
Regulatory Status
Stearalkonium Hectorite is approved for use in cosmetic products by major regulatory authorities, such as the European Union and the FDA in the United States. It is widely used in skincare, haircare, and makeup products.
References__________________________________________________________________________
Becker LC, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, Hill RA, Klaassen CD, Liebler DC, Marks JG Jr, Shank RC, Slaga TJ, Snyder PW, Andersen FA. Safety assessment of ammonium hectorites as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2013 Nov-Dec;32(6 Suppl):33S-40S. doi: 10.1177/1091581813507722.
Abstract. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) reviewed the safety of 4 ammonium hectorite compounds used in cosmetics: disteardimonium hectorite, dihydrogenated tallow benzylmonium hectorite, stearalkonium hectorite, and quaternium-18 hectorite. These ingredients function in cosmetics mainly as nonsurfactant suspending agents. The Panel reviewed available animal and human data and concluded that these ammonium hectorite compounds were safe as cosmetic ingredients in the practices of use and concentration as given in this safety assessment.
César Viseras, Rita Sánchez-Espejo, Rosanna Palumbo, Ninfa Liccardi, Fátima García-Villén, Ana Borrego-Sánchez, Marina Massaro, Serena Riela, Alberto López-Galindo(2021). Clays in cosmetics and personal-care products. Clays and Clay Minerals, 69(5), 561-575.
Abstract. Clays are used in various cosmetic formulations, such as sunscreens, toothpastes, deodorants, creams, hair cosmetics, makeups, nail polish, facial masks, and shampoos, among others, to improve the organoleptic and physicochemical characteristics, to increase the stability, or to facilitate elaboration. Together with their technological functionalities, clays are cosmetologically active ingredients with cleaning, anti-aging, anti-wrinkling, and sun-care functionalities. Talc, kaolinite, mica, and some smectites are the clay minerals used most frequently in cosmetic products, but several other phyllosilicates as well as modified and synthetic clays are also used. Sometimes, clays are useful in the design of cosmetics just because they are made of rigid, small, and anisometric particles. Kaolinite and mica are made of hard prismatic particles which are lightly abrasive over the skin, teeth, or hair. Electric charges in smectites result in ion-exchange capacities useful in the loading of active cosmetics but also adsorbing and cleaning waste substances. Intermediate net negative charges of smectites result in layer expansion in polar media and specific rheological properties that are very useful in cosmetic formulations. The absence of charged particles in talc and kaolin make them flow easily resulting in lubricant effects. Protection against radiation from the sun by clay particles and decorative effects complete the possibilities of clays in cosmetics. The nomenclature for clays used as ingredients in cosmetics follows historical use and the names of commercial products, rather than following strict compositional principles. In this sense, an effort was made here to correlate the names of the minerals that make up each of the clay-based cosmetic ingredients.
Stearalkonium hectorite 
