Glycyrrhiza uralensis extract is derived from the roots of the Glycyrrhiza uralensis plant, commonly known as Chinese licorice. It is used in cosmetics and personal care products for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and skin-brightening properties.

Chemical Composition and Structure:

Key Components:
Glycyrrhizin: The primary active compound, known for its anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing effects.
Flavonoids: Contribute antioxidant properties.
Saponins: Have emulsifying and foaming properties.
Structure: Glycyrrhizin is a triterpenoid saponin with a glycoside structure. It is composed of glycyrrhetinic acid linked to glucuronic acid.

Physical Properties:

Appearance: Typically a light brown to yellowish powder or a dark brown liquid.
Odor: Mild, characteristic herbal scent.
Consistency: Powder is fine and soluble in water; the liquid form is viscous.

Production Process:

Harvesting: Roots of the Glycyrrhiza uralensis plant are harvested.
Extraction: The roots are extracted using solvents to obtain the active compounds.
Purification: The extract is purified to concentrate the active ingredients and remove impurities.
Formulation: The purified extract is incorporated into cosmetic formulations.

Applications:

Skincare: Used in a variety of skincare products for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and brightening properties. It helps to reduce redness and irritation and can enhance skin complexion.
Anti-Aging: Glycyrrhiza uralensis extract is used in anti-aging formulations for its antioxidant properties.

Safety and Environmental Considerations:

Safety: Glycyrrhiza uralensis extract is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used as directed. Individuals with sensitive skin or allergies to licorice should be cautious.
Environmental Impact: The environmental impact is associated with the sustainability of licorice root farming practices and extraction methods.

INCI:


Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
Synonyms:

CAS: 94349-91-4 EC number 305-209-3