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Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate meglio conosciuto come Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate è un derivato stabile e liposolubile della vitamina C (acido ascorbico) esterificato con acido isopalmitico. Questo composto è apprezzato per le sue proprietà benefiche, rendendolo popolare in diverse applicazioni, in particolare nei campi della cosmetica e della cura personale.
Composizione chimica e struttura
La composizione chimica dell'Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate include acido ascorbico esterificato con quattro molecole di acido isopalmitico. Questa struttura conferisce al composto caratteristiche uniche, come una maggiore stabilità e solubilità negli oli, permettendo di fornire i benefici della vitamina C in modo più efficace nelle formulazioni a base di lipidi.
Proprietà fisiche
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate si presenta tipicamente come un liquido chiaro, di colore giallo pallido a giallo, con una consistenza oleosa. È insolubile in acqua ma solubile in oli e solventi organici.
Processo di produzione
La produzione dell'Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate coinvolge diversi passaggi:
Reperimento delle materie prime: l'acido ascorbico e l'acido isopalmitico vengono selezionati e preparati per la reazione.
Reazione di esterificazione: l'acido ascorbico viene fatto reagire con l'acido isopalmitico in presenza di un catalizzatore per formare Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate.
Purificazione: il prodotto della reazione viene purificato per rimuovere eventuali impurità e componenti non reagiti.
Formulazione e confezionamento: il prodotto finale viene formulato per ottenere la consistenza desiderata e confezionato in condizioni controllate per garantirne la stabilità e la purezza.
Applicazioni
Considerazioni ambientali e di sicurezza
Impatto ambientale: la produzione dell'Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate ha generalmente un impatto ambientale moderato. L'approvvigionamento sostenibile delle materie prime e l'uso di processi ecologici possono contribuire a minimizzare l'impatto complessivo.
Sicurezza: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate è considerato sicuro per l'uso topico nelle concentrazioni tipicamente impiegate nei prodotti di consumo. Tuttavia, è essenziale garantire che il composto sia privo di contaminanti e conforme agli standard normativi. Le reazioni allergiche sono rare ma non possono essere escluse (3).
A cosa serve e dove si usa
Cosmetica - Funzioni INCI
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Molecular Formula C70H128O10
Molecular Weight 1129.8 g/mol
CAS 183476-82-6 161436-56-2
UNII 47143LT58A
EC Number 430-110-8 917-614-8
Synonyms:
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Vitamin C tetra-isopalmitate
ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Bibliografia__________________________________________________________________________
(1) Narda M, Brown A, Pérez-Cremades D, García-Giménez JL, Granger C. Melatonin, bakuchiol and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate synergize to modulate gene expression and restore Hypoxia-Inducible Factor 1 signaling in UV-exposed skin. Cell Mol Biol (Noisy-le-grand). 2018 Dec 31;65(8):39-47.
Abstract. Chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces changes to the expression of hundreds of genes in the skin and modulates cellular signaling pathways that alter its structure, function and appearance. To counter these effects, we have developed a 3-in-1 night facial serum (3-in-1 NFS) comprising melatonin, bakuchiol and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate that is designed to attenuate UV-generated free radicals and support new collagen synthesis. In order to better define its mechanism of action and gain insight into how it might influence the biology of photoaged skin, we performed a transcriptomic analysis of ex vivo skin explants that had been exposed to UV light and treated with 3-in-1 NFS each day for 4 consecutive days. Differentially expressed mRNAs and microRNAs (miRNA) were identified by RNA sequencing and a miRNA interactome was developed. Pathway enrichment analysis was performed to identify pathways likely modulated by 3-in-1 NFS. Our analysis revealed that the combination of active ingredients in 3-in-1 NFS exerted a synergistic effect on skin biology and modulated the expression of genes implicated in the regulation of collagen biosynthesis, angiogenesis, skin barrier function and cellular metabolism. Pathway analysis indicated that these events are driven by Hypoxia-Inducible Factor 1α (HIF-1α) whose expression in UV-exposed skin was partially restored upon 3-in-1 NFS treatment. To our knowledge, 3-in-1 NFS is the first non-drug demonstrated to act upon this pathway in the skin.
Goldberg DJ, Robinson DM, Granger C. Clinical evidence of the efficacy and safety of a new 3-in-1 anti-aging topical night serum-in-oil containing melatonin, bakuchiol, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate: 103 females treated from 28 to 84 days. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019 Jun;18(3):806-814. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12896.
(2) Maia Campos PM, Gianeti MD, Kanashiro A, Lucisano-Valim YM, Gaspar LR. In vitro antioxidant and in vivo photoprotective effects of an association of bioflavonoids with liposoluble vitamins. Photochem Photobiol. 2006 May-Jun;82(3):683-8. doi: 10.1562/2005-10-14-RA-715.
Abstract. A new tendency in cosmetic formulations is the association of botanical extracts and vitamins to improve skin conditions by synergic effects. The objective of this study was to determine the antioxidant activity of associated bioflavonoids, retinyl palmitate (RP), tocopheryl acetate (TA) and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATIP), as well as their photoprotective effects in preventing increased erythema, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and sunburn cell formation in hairless mouse skin. The antioxidant activity of solutions containing the association or each substance separately was evaluated in vitro by a chemiluminescence assay. The photoprotective effect was evaluated by means of in vivo tests. Dorsal skin of hairless mice was treated daily by topical applications for 5 days with formulations containing or not containing (vehicle) the flavonoid-vitamins association (5%). The skin was irradiated (UVA/B) 15 minutes after the last application. The results showed that bioflavonoids had in vitro antioxidant properties and also that when they were associated with vitamins their antioxidant activity was more pronounced. On the other hand, erythema and UV damage to the permeability barrier function (TEWL) was not significantly reduced by previous treatment with the flavonoid-vitamin-association formulations, when compared to the irradiated vehicle-treated area. However, the treatment protected the skin from UV damage because it reduced the number of sunburn cells, when compared to the vehicle-treated area. Finally, the association of vitamins and bioflavonoids added to a dermocosmetic formulation showed a relevant biological activity in terms of photoprotection, because the association of bioflavonoids and vitamins acted by different mechanisms, such as antioxidation and absorption of UV radiation, which suggests its use in antiaging and photoprotective products.
(3) Swinnen I, Goossens A. Allergic contact dermatitis caused by ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. Contact Dermatitis. 2011 Apr;64(4):241-2. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0536.2011.01875.x. PMID: 21392035.
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