Cetyl Myristate – waxy INCI emollient, identification data, cosmetic use levels, and formulation guidance

Cetyl myristate
Ester of cetyl alcohol and myristic acid – C₃₀H₆₀O₂

Synonyms: hexadecyl tetradecanoate, myristic acid cetyl ester, hexadecyl myristate
INCI / functions: skin conditioning, skin conditioning – emollient (emollient)

Definition

Cetyl Myristate is a waxy ester (wax ester) formed by esterification of cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol) with myristic acid (tetradecanoic acid). From a compositional standpoint, the ingredient consists primarily of the single molecule Cetyl Myristate, with possible controlled trace levels (grade-dependent) of related components (e.g., residual free acid/alcohol or closely related esters) within supplier specifications. In cosmetics it is used mainly as an emollient and texturizer: it contributes to a more silky feel, can reduce the perception of greasiness in certain bases, improves slip and payoff, and can support body in the oil phase of emulsions and anhydrous systems.

• Food: not a typical food ingredient; mainly a technical material.

• Cosmetics: emollient and texture support (creams, lotions, make-up, body and lip products).

• Medicine: possible technical use in lipophilic topical bases (grade-dependent).

• Pharmaceutical: potential lipophilic excipient, subject to grade and applicable dossier.

• Industrial use: waxy ester for lubricity/feel and rheology modification (sector-dependent).

Calories (energy value)

Identification data and specifications

Key constituents

Physicochemical properties (practically relevant)

Functional role in formulation

Formulation compatibility

Cetyl Myristate is generally highly compatible with anhydrous oil/ester/wax matrices and is commonly used to tune the sensory and structural profile of sticks, balms, and rich body products. In O/W emulsions it is added to the oil phase to contribute body and emolliency; the key control points are thermal stability (heat/cold cycling) and viscosity drift during maturation. In W/O systems, compatibility is typically good as well, but performance depends on the emulsifier system and the overall wax/oil balance. With pigments and powders, Cetyl Myristate can improve slip and payoff, but optimal results usually require balancing with other esters and dispersants based on pigment surface treatment.

Use guidelines (indicative)

Typical applications

• Body and hand creams to improve comfort and sensorial profile.

• Balms, butters, and anhydrous systems to increase body and cushion.

• Lip products and cream make-up to support payoff and glide.

Quality, grades and specifications

Safety, regulatory and environment

Cetyl Myristate is generally considered suitable for cosmetic use at typical use levels when formulated so the finished product is non-irritating. Handling is usually straightforward; however, bulk handling of flakes/pastilles should minimize dust generation and avoid inhalation of fine particulate. From a regulatory perspective within the EU, it is used under general cosmetic requirements and GMP, and the safety evaluation is performed on the finished product. Environmentally, it is a lipophilic waxy ester: avoid uncontrolled release and manage oily residues and cleaning effluents according to local rules and good practice.

Formulation troubleshooting

Conclusion

Cetyl Myristate is a waxy emollient that helps improve texture, slip, and sensorial performance in many cosmetic formulations. It is particularly effective as a texturizer in anhydrous systems and as an oil-phase structuring aid in emulsions, provided wax/ester balance and the melting window are managed to ensure stability and batch-to-batch repeatability.

Mini-glossary

References__________________________________________________________________________

Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B. A., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2015). Safety assessment of alkyl esters as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 34(2_suppl), 5S-69S.

Abstract. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) assessed the safety of 237 alkyl esters for use in cosmetics. The alkyl esters included in this assessment have a variety of reported functions in cosmetics, with skin-conditioning agent being the most common function. The Panel reviewed available animal and clinical data in making its determination of safety on these ingredients, and where there were data gaps, similarity in structure, properties, functions, and uses of these ingredients allowed for extrapolation of the available toxicological data to assess the safety of the entire group. The Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in cosmetic formulations in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be nonirritating.

EFSA Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies (NDA). (2014). Statement on the safety of ‘Cetyl Myristoleate Complex’as an ingredient in food supplements. EFSA Journal, 12(7), 3758.

Abstract. Following a request from the European Commission, the Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies was asked to update its opinion on the safety of ‘Cetyl Myristoleate Complex’ (CMC) as a novel food ingredient in the light of additional information submitted by the applicant. In its previous opinion of 2010, the Panel concluded that the safety of CMC as an ingredient in food supplements at an intake of 3.3 g per day has not been established. This conclusion was based on the considerations that in the absence of appropriate data on absorption, distribution, metabolism and excretion, the provided toxicological data were insufficient. In 2012, the Commission requested EFSA to review and update its opinion by taking into account a new subchronic 90-day oral toxicity study conducted with “Cetylated Fatty Acid Esters Powder 50 %” in mice. In its opinion of 2013, the Panel considered that a new 90-day study cannot serve as a reliable source of information supporting the absence of adverse effects of CMC. The dossier of this new mandate contains three new references which were not submitted and hence not considered in the previous assessments. The Panel notes that two references do not address the concerns expressed by the Panel in its previous assessments. The third reference provided is a report on an in vitro hydrolysis study demonstrating a low rate of hydrolysis of cetyl myristoleate and cetyl myristate. The Panel notes the low rate of hydrolysis of the two esters found in this in vitro hydrolysis study and therefore reiterates the need for adequate safety information on the unhydrolysed esters contained in CMC as expressed in its opinions of 2010 and 2013. The Panel concludes that, even after considering the newly submitted information, the safety of ‘Cetyl Myristoleate Complex’ has not been established.