Glycereth-26 is a chemical compound, an emollient and humectant commonly used in cosmetics. It belongs to the family of glycereths, which are esters of glycerol and ethylene oxide. 

The name describes the structure of the molecule:

Glycereth indicates a derivative of glycerol, which is a polyhydric alcohol with humectant properties. The number that follows (26 in this case) represents the average number of ethylene oxide units added.

What it is used for and where

Glycereth-26 is known for its ability to retain moisture on the skin, thereby providing a sensation of hydration and softness. It is particularly beneficial in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums, where it helps to form a protective barrier that prevents moisture loss. Glycereth-26 is also valued for its ability to improve the texture of products, making them smoother and easier to apply.

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

• Humectant. Hygroscopic compound used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis.  The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: horny, the most superficial, granular, spinous, shiny, and basal. Humectants have the ability to retain the water they attract from the air in the stratum corneum and have the function of moisturising the skin. They are best used before emollients, which are oil-based.
• Viscosity control agent. It controls and adapts, Increasing or decreasing, viscosity to the required level for optimal chemical and physical stability of the product and dosage in gels, suspensions, emulsions, solutions.

Chemical Industrial Synthesis Process

• Reagent selection. The production of Glycereth-26 begins with the selection of glycerin and ethylene oxide, the primary components needed for synthesis.
• Alkoxylation reaction. Glycerin is reacted with ethylene oxide in the presence of a catalyst, typically a strong base like potassium hydroxide. This process takes place in a reactor under controlled temperature and pressure conditions to facilitate the formation of polyglycol ethers.
• Reaction monitoring. The reaction is carefully monitored to ensure that the desired number of ethylene oxide units is added to the glycerin, thus forming Glycereth-26 with the desired molecular weight and functionality.
• Purification. After the reaction, the product is purified to remove any impurities and by-products. This may include methods such as vacuum distillation or filtration.
• Quality control. The purified Glycereth-26 undergoes various quality control tests to verify its purity, chemical composition, and physical properties such as viscosity and freezing point.

Main uses and benefits of Glycereth-26.

Moisturizing Properties. It acts as a powerful humectant that draws and retains moisture on the skin, helping to keep the skin hydrated and preventing dryness.

Emollient Effect. It improves skin feel by making it soft and smooth to the touch, due to its ability to form a light protective layer that holds in moisture.

Product Texture Improvement. It contributes to a rich and luxurious consistency in cosmetic products, enhancing applicability and comfort during use.

Formulation Stabilization. It helps stabilize emulsions and can act as a co-solvent to improve the solubility of other ingredients in the product.

Skin Compatibility. It is generally well tolerated by the skin and can be used even on sensitive skin, reducing the risk of irritations.

Versatile Applications. It can be used in a variety of cosmetic formulations, including creams, lotions, serums, facial masks, and hair care products, due to its broad range of moisturizing benefits and enhancement of skin feel.

Bifidobacterium is a genus of probiotic bacteria that is naturally present in the gastrointestinal tract of humans and animals (1) (2).

What it is used for and where

Probiotic bacteria help maintain the balance of the intestinal flora, promoting healthy digestion and strengthening the immune system. They are also used in various food products like yogurts and dietary supplements. In the field of cosmetics, Bifidobacterium is valued for its protective and regenerative properties on the skin. It helps to improve the skin barrier and protect the skin from pathogens and environmental stress factors, while promoting healthier and more resilient skin.

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

• Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

Industrial Production Process

Strain selection. Specific strains of Bifidobacterium known for their probiotic properties and ability to thrive in human intestinal environments are selected.

Culture medium preparation. A nutrient-rich culture medium that supports the growth and proliferation of Bifidobacterium is prepared. This often includes complex carbohydrates that Bifidobacterium can efficiently metabolize.

Fermentation. Bifidobacterium are inoculated into sterile fermenters where they grow and multiply under controlled conditions of temperature, pH, and anaerobiosis to optimize biomass production.

Harvesting and stabilization. Bifidobacterium cells are harvested at the end of fermentation. Cells can be stabilized through freeze-drying or microencapsulation to enhance their survival during storage and ingestion.

Quality control. Each batch of Bifidobacterium undergoes rigorous checks to verify viability, purity, and absence of pathogens.

Packaging. The probiotics are packaged into capsules, tablets, or as powders that ensure the protection of live cells until consumption.

Storage. Finished products are stored under conditions that preserve stability, such as refrigeration, to maintain efficacy until the expiration date.

Main uses and benefits of Bifidobacterium

Skin Barrier Protection. It helps strengthen the skin barrier, protecting the skin from pathogens and environmental stress, and improving its ability to retain moisture (3).

Anti-inflammatory Effects. Probiotics like Bifidobacterium can reduce skin inflammation, helping to treat conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea (4).

Microbial Balance. They help maintain or restore the natural microbial balance of the skin, which is vital for keeping the skin healthy and preventing infections.

Aging Prevention. Some studies suggest that Bifidobacterium can help protect skin cells from oxidative damage, contributing to delaying signs of aging.

Hydration. It enhances skin hydration by increasing the production of ceramides, which are crucial lipids for maintaining skin moisture and protection.

Versatile Applications. It can be incorporated into a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, lotions, and facial masks, to leverage its benefits for skin health.

References_____________________________________________________________________

(1) Staudacher HM, Lomer MCE, Farquharson FM, Louis P, Fava F, Franciosi E, Scholz M, Tuohy KM, Lindsay JO, Irving PM, Whelan K. A Diet Low in FODMAPs Reduces Symptoms in Patients With Irritable Bowel Syndrome and A Probiotic Restores Bifidobacterium Species: A Randomized Controlled Trial. Gastroenterology. 2017 Oct;153(4):936-947. doi: 10.1053/j.gastro.2017.06.010. Epub 2017 Jun 15. PMID: 28625832.

(2) Yan, S., Yang, B., Ross, R. P., Stanton, C., Zhang, H., Zhao, J., & Chen, W. (2020). Bifidobacterium longum subsp. longum YS108R fermented milk alleviates DSS induced colitis via anti-inflammation, mucosal barrier maintenance and gut microbiota modulation. Journal of Functional Foods, 73, 104153.

Abstract. The health-associated benefits of bifidobacteria has generated interest in the production of bifidobacteria-fermented milk. In this study, three fermented milks were generated using Bifidobacterium longum subsp. longum YS108R which is a ropy-exopolysaccharide producer, the probiotic strain Bifidobacterium animalis subsp. lactis BB12, and a starter culture blend composed of Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus. YS108R proved as effective as the starter culture blend for reducing pH during milk fermentation. YS108R fermented milk proved to decrease disease active index by 29% and myeloperoxidase activity by 40% compared with model group. It also significantly decreased the expression of IL-6 and IL-17A and maintained the tight junction proteins, while increasing the expression of mucin2. Furthermore, YS108R fermented milk modulated the gut microbiota, especially preventing the increase of Enterobacteriaceae. Overall, YS108R fermented milk was shown to alleviate DSS-induced colitis through its anti-inflammatory properties, by protecting mucosal barrier integrity, and maintaining gut microbiota homeostasis.

(3) Fang Z, Pan T, Li L, Wang H, Zhu J, Zhang H, Zhao J, Chen W, Lu W. Bifidobacterium longum mediated tryptophan metabolism to improve atopic dermatitis via the gut-skin axis. Gut Microbes. 2022 Jan-Dec;14(1):2044723. doi: 10.1080/19490976.2022.2044723. 

Abstract. Gut microbial disturbance affects allergic diseases including asthma, atopic dermatitis (AD) via the aberrant immune response. Some Bifidobacterial species and strains have been reported to improve AD via modulating immune-microbe interactions in patients. However, the effective metabolites and mechanism of alleviating AD in bifidobacteria remain to be elucidated. This study aimed to explore the microbial metabolite and mechanism of Bifidobacterium longum to improve AD. Based on shotgun metagenomic sequencing and UHPLC Q-Exactive-MS targeted metabolic experiments in vitro and in vivo, we focused on tryptophan metabolism and indole derivatives, which are endogenous ligands for aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR). Indole-3-carbaldehyde (I3C), a tryptophan metabolite of B. longum CCFM1029 activated AHR-mediated immune signaling pathway to improve AD symptoms in animal and clinical experiments. B. longum CCFM1029 upregulated tryptophan metabolism and increased I3C to suppress aberrant T helper 2 type immune responses, but these benefits were eliminated by AHR antagonist CH223191. Furthermore, B. longum CCFM1029 reshaped gut microbial composition in AD patients, increased fecal and serum I3C, and maintained the abundance of Lachnospiraceae related to tryptophan metabolism of gut microbiota. The results suggested that based on the interactions of the gut-skin axis, B. longum CCFM1029 upregulated tryptophan metabolism and produced I3C to activate AHR-mediated immune response, alleviating AD symptoms. Indole derivates, microbial metabolites of tryptophan, may be the potential metabolites of bifidobacteria to alleviate AD via the AHR signaling pathway.

(4) Chen X, Chen Y, Stanton C, Ross RP, Zhao J, Chen W, Yang B. Dose-Response Efficacy and Mechanisms of Orally Administered Bifidobacterium breve CCFM683 on IMQ-Induced Psoriasis in Mice. Nutrients. 2023 Apr 18;15(8):1952. doi: 10.3390/nu15081952. PMID: 37111171; 

Abstract. This study aimed to investigate the dose-response effect of Bifidobacterium breve CCFM683 on relieving psoriasis and its underlying patterns. Specifically, the expression of keratin 16, keratin 17, and involucrin were substantially decreased by administration of 109 CFU and 1010 CFU per day. Moreover, interleukin (IL)-17 and TNF-α levels were substantially decreased by 109 and 1010 CFU/day. Furthermore, the gut microbiota in mice treated with 109 or 1010 CFU/day was rebalanced by improving the diversity, regulating microbe interactions, increasing Lachnoclostridium, and decreasing Oscillibacter. Moreover, the concentrations of colonic bile acids were positively correlated with the effectiveness of the strain in relieving psoriasis. The gavage dose should be more than 108.42 CFU/day to improve psoriasis according to the dose-effect curve. In conclusion, CCFM683 supplementation alleviated psoriasis in a dose-dependent manner by recovering microbiota, promoting bile acid production, regulating the FXR/NF-κB pathway, diminishing proinflammatory cytokines, regulating keratinocytes, and maintaining the epidermal barrier function. These results may help guide probiotic product development and clinical trials in psoriasis.

Bifida Ferment Lysate is a naturally derived cosmetic ingredient derived from the fermentation of Bifidobacterium bacteria and is considered a probiotic.

The name describes the structure of the molecule:

• Bifida refers to Bifidobacterium, a genus of bacteria that is part of the human gut flora. These bacteria are known for their health benefits to the intestinal tract and the immune system.
• Ferment indicates that the bacteria have been fermented, a biological process that transforms sugars into lactic acid or other substances, enhancing the properties of the product.
• Lysate refers to a product that has been obtained from lysis, which is the breaking down of cells to release their content.

Industrial Production Process

• Strain selection. A specific strain of Bifida bacteria is selected for its beneficial properties and its ability to survive the fermentation process.
• Culture medium preparation. A nutrient-rich culture medium that supports the optimal growth of Bifida bacteria is prepared.
• Fermentation. The Bifida bacteria are inoculated into the culture medium and allowed to ferment under controlled conditions of temperature and pH for a set period, allowing for the production of a biomass rich in beneficial components.
• Cell lysis. After fermentation, the bacterial cells undergo lysis, a process that breaks down the cell walls to release the intracellular contents, forming the lysate.
• Filtration. The lysate is filtered to remove dead cell particles and other residues, thereby purifying the product.
• Quality control. The obtained Bifida Ferment Lysate undergoes rigorous quality testing to ensure the presence of active components, microbiological purity, and the absence of contaminants.
• Storage. The final product is stored under conditions that maintain its stability and efficacy until its use in the finished product.

What it is used for and where

Bifida Ferment Lysate is valued for its reparative and protective properties on the skin. This ingredient helps to improve the skin barrier, reducing skin sensitivity and enhancing its defense capability against environmental stress factors. It is often used in products intended for the care of mature or damaged skin, such as serums and moisturizing creams, for its effectiveness in improving skin elasticity and appearance, as well as reducing visible signs of aging.

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

• Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

CAS    96507-89-0

EC number    306-168-4

Main uses and benefits of Bifida Ferment Lysate.

DNA Repair. This ingredient helps repair cellular DNA damaged by exposure to UV rays and other harmful environmental factors, contributing to the prevention of premature skin aging (1).

Strengthening the Skin Barrier. It improves the functionality of the skin barrier, increasing its ability to retain moisture and protecting it from external irritants (2).

Moisturizing Properties. It provides deep hydration to the skin, improving its texture and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Anti-inflammatory Effects. It has anti-inflammatory properties that can help reduce redness and irritation, making it ideal for sensitive or compromised skin (3).

Skin Regeneration. It stimulates cell renewal and skin regeneration, helping to keep the skin youthful and radiant.

Versatile Applications. It can be used in a wide range of skincare products, including serums, creams, masks, and lotions, due to its effectiveness and skin benefits.

References_____________________________________________________________________

(1) Ácsová, A., Hojerová, J., & Martiniaková, S. (2022). Efficacy of postbiotics against free radicals and UV radiation. Chemical Papers, 76(4), 2357-2364.

Abstract. The importance of probiotics for the internal and external human microbiota has already been scientifically confirmed. As these are viable bacteria, the direct dermal use of them through mass-produced cosmetics is impossible. For these purposes, postbiotics—substances derived from probiotics through fermentation processes—appear to be promising. Two postbiotics have been investigated in vitro for their protective ability against free radicals and UV radiation compared to conventional synthetic chemicals. Lactococcus Ferment Lysate and Bifida Ferment Lysate in 5% aqueous solution and 100% concentrate were able to scavenge from 0.15 to 54.2% and 7.0 to 71.0%, respectively, of 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical. L. Ferment Lysate in the emulsion, the composition of which is a reference in testing the effectiveness of sunscreen products with a low SPF value, showed an absorption capacity in the UVB region (SPF 4.75) comparable to the standard chemical UV filter Homomenthyl salicylate (SPF value of 4.45) and in the UVA region better than this standard. The UV absorption ability of B. Ferment Lysate was negligible. Postbiotics B. Ferment Lysate and L. Ferment Lysate are beneficial natural active ingredients for the skin protection against free radicals and L. Ferment Lysate also against UVB + UVA radiation.

(2) Wang R, Yan S, Ma X, Zhao J, Han Y, Pan Y, Zhao H. The pivotal role of Bifida Ferment Lysate on reinforcing the skin barrier function and maintaining homeostasis of skin defenses in vitro. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 Dec;22(12):3427-3435. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15831. Epub 2023 May 23. PMID: 37218728.

(3) Fabbrocini G, Ferrillo M, Donnarumma M, Papale A, Pinto D, Rinaldi F. A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled, Multicentric Study to Evaluate the Efficacy and the Tolerability of a Class II Medical Device in the Treatment of Mild and Moderate Acne. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2022 Aug;12(8):1835-1845. doi: 10.1007/s13555-022-00767-1. 

Tanacetum Annuum Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil also known as blue tanacetus oil, is extracted by steam distillation of the aerial parts of the plant of the same name, which belongs to the Asteraceae family.

The name describes the structure of the molecule:

• Tanacetum Annuum is the scientific name for the flower commonly known as blue tansy or blue chamomile. This plant is valued for its flowers which produce a blue-colored essential oil.
• Flower/leaf/stem oil indicates that the product is an essential oil extracted from the flowers, leaves, and stems of Tanacetum Annuum.

Industrial Production Process

• Collection of plant material. The aerial parts of Tanacetum Annuum, such as flowers, leaves, and stems, are harvested at full bloom when the essential oil content is highest.
• Preparation. The collected material is cleaned to remove impurities and debris.
• Steam distillation. The plant parts are immediately subjected to steam distillation. This process uses water vapor passing through the plant material to extract essential oils.
• Condensation. The steam laden with essential oils is cooled in a condenser, turning it back into liquid. This liquid is a mix of water and essential oil.
• Separation. The essential oil separates from the water due to its lower density. The oil, being lighter, floats on top of the water or separates to the side and is collected.
• Filtration and purification. The collected oil may be filtered to remove physical impurities and further purified if necessary.
• Quality control. Tanacetum Annuum essential oil undergoes rigorous testing to ensure purity and concentration of active compounds such as chamazulene, and to verify the absence of contaminants.
• Storage. The oil is stored in dark glass containers to protect it from light and preserve its chemical and therapeutic integrity.

What it is used for and where

This oil is renowned for its high content of chamazulene, a compound that gives the oil its characteristic blue color and has anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic properties. It is primarily used in aromatherapy to relieve stress and calm the mind. Additionally, due to its soothing properties, it is a popular ingredient in skincare products intended to treat conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and skin irritations. Blue tansy oil is also employed for its ability to improve skin tone and reduce redness.

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

• Fragrance. It plays a very important role in the formulation of cosmetic products as it provides the possibility of enhancing, masking or adding fragrance to the final product, increasing its marketability. It is able to create a perceptible pleasant odour, masking a bad smell. The consumer always expects to find a pleasant or distinctive scent in a cosmetic product. 
• Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

Main uses and benefits of Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil.

Anti-inflammatory Properties. This oil is highly effective at reducing inflammation and soothing skin irritations such as eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea (1).

Calming and Relaxing Effects. The aroma of Tanacetum Annuum is used in aromatherapy to reduce stress and promote a sense of calm, helping to alleviate tensions and anxiety.

Skin Care. The oil has healing properties that can accelerate the healing process of small wounds, cuts, and abrasions, thanks to its ability to support cell regeneration.

Antioxidant. It contains antioxidants that help protect the skin from free radical damage and premature aging.

Pain Relief. It can be used to relieve muscle pain and tension due to its analgesic properties, making it useful in massage oils and balms.

Versatile Applications. Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil can be incorporated into various cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, body oils, and products for sensitive skin care.

Safety

Tanacetum Annuum Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil  is a product generally considered safe.

References_____________________________________________________________________

(1) Ettakifi H, Abbassi K, Maouni S, Erbiai EH, Rahmouni A, Legssyer M, Saidi R, Lamrani Z, Esteves da Silva JCG, Pinto E, Maouni A. Chemical Characterization and Antifungal Activity of Blue Tansy (Tanacetum annuum) Essential Oil and Crude Extracts against Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. albedinis, an Agent Causing Bayoud Disease of Date Palm. Antibiotics (Basel). 2023 Sep 16;12(9):1451. doi: 10.3390/antibiotics12091451. 

Abstract. Tanacetum annuum L. is a Mediterranean plant, commonly known as Blue Tansy due to its blue colour as an essential oil, which is widely used for medicinal purposes. However, there are no studies on the bioactive compounds (especially, phenolic compounds) and the biological properties of their organic extracts. Herein, the purpose of the present work was to investigate the chemical composition of the essential oil and crude extracts of the T. annuum aerial parts collected from northern Morocco and to evaluate their antioxidant and antifungal activity against Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. albedinis, an agent causing Bayoud disease of the date palm, an important food source and commercial perennial crop in the Sahara and North Africa. Chemically, Folin-Ciocalteu and aluminium chloride colourimetric methods were used to determine the total phenolic (TPC) and total flavonoid (TFC) contents, respectively; polyphenols were characterized using HPLC-MS, while GC-MS was used to analyse the essential oil composition. Moreover, the evaluation of antioxidant and antifungal activities was carried out using the DPPH test and microdilution method, respectively. The results showed that the three T. annuum parts (stems, leaves and flowers) extracts contained important TPC and TFC with values varied between 51.32 and 116.32 mg/g of dry crude extract (DCE). HPLC-MS analysis revealed the identification and quantification of 19 phenolic acids and flavonoids with an emphasis on apigenin 7-glucoside (4540 µg/g of dry weight (DW)), luteolin 7-glucoside (2804 µg/g DW) and salicylic acid (1878 µg/g DW). Additionally, 39 biomolecules were identified in the essential oil using GC-MS, which were predominated by camphor (16.69%), α-pinene (12.37%), bornyl acetate (11.97%) and limonene (11.10%). The methanolic and hydro-methanolic extracts of T. annuum parts demonstrated a strong antioxidant property with IC50 values ranging between 0.22 and 0.65 mg/mL. Concerning antifungal activity, the essential oil and crude extracts of the Moroccan Blue Tansy exhibited a potent capacity against F. oxysporum f. sp. albedinis at low concentrations, with MIC and MFC values of 3.33 and 4.58 µL/mL for the essential oil and values of 3.33 and 9.17 mg/mL for crude extracts, respectively. Overall, these results demonstrated T. annuum as an important source of bioactive compounds and contribute significantly to the potential of using essential oils and extracts for controlling the Bayoud disease of date palms. Moreover, the finding suggests that T. annuum can be highly useful for phytosanitary and pharmaceutical industries.

Belcadi H, Aknouch A, El Amrani S, Chraka A, Lachkar M, Mouhib M, Zantar S, Ibnmansour A. Gamma-irradiation effect on the chemical composition and antibacterial activity of the moroccan tanacetum annuum L. essential oil. Heliyon. 2023 May 24;9(6):e16625. doi: 10.1016/j.heliyon.2023.e16625. PMID: 37292271; PMCID: PMC10245259.

Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil also known as blue tanacetus oil, is extracted by steam distillation of the flowers of the plant of the same name, which belongs to the Asteraceae family.

The name describes the structure of the molecule:

• Tanacetum Annuum is the scientific name for the flower commonly known as blue tansy or blue chamomile. This plant is valued for its flowers which produce a blue-colored essential oil.
• Flower Oil indicates that the product is an essential oil extracted from the flowers of Tanacetum Annuum.

Industrial Production Process

• Flower collection. Tanacetum Annuum flowers are harvested when fully bloomed, which is when the essential oil content is highest.
• Steam distillation. The fresh flowers are immediately subjected to steam distillation. This method involves passing steam through the plant material to extract the essential oils.
• Condensation. The steam carrying the essential oils is cooled in a condenser, turning it into liquid. The essential oil separates from the distillation water due to differences in density.
• Oil collection. The essential oil, which floats above the water or separates to the side, is collected and drained out of the distillation system.
• Filtration and purification. The collected oil may be filtered to remove physical impurities and further purified if necessary.
• Quality control. Tanacetum Annuum essential oil undergoes various tests to ensure purity, the concentration of active compounds such as chamazulene, and to verify the absence of contaminants.
• Storage. The oil is stored in dark glass containers to protect it from light, which could degrade its active chemical components.

What it is used for and where

This oil is renowned for its high content of chamazulene, a compound that gives the oil its characteristic blue color and has anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic properties. It is primarily used in aromatherapy to relieve stress and calm the mind. Additionally, due to its soothing properties, it is a popular ingredient in skincare products intended to treat conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and skin irritations. Blue tansy oil is also employed for its ability to improve skin tone and reduce redness.

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

• Fragrance. It plays a very important role in the formulation of cosmetic products as it provides the possibility of enhancing, masking or adding fragrance to the final product, increasing its marketability. It is able to create a perceptible pleasant odour, masking a bad smell. The consumer always expects to find a pleasant or distinctive scent in a cosmetic product. 
• Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

Main uses and benefits of Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil.

Anti-inflammatory Properties. This oil is highly effective at reducing inflammation and soothing skin irritations such as eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea (1).

Calming and Relaxing Effects. The aroma of Tanacetum Annuum is used in aromatherapy to reduce stress and promote a sense of calm, helping to alleviate tensions and anxiety.

Skin Care. The oil has healing properties that can accelerate the healing process of small wounds, cuts, and abrasions, thanks to its ability to support cell regeneration.

Antioxidant. It contains antioxidants that help protect the skin from free radical damage and premature aging.

Pain Relief. It can be used to relieve muscle pain and tension due to its analgesic properties, making it useful in massage oils and balms.

Versatile Applications. Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil can be incorporated into various cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, body oils, and products for sensitive skin care.

Safety

Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil  is a product generally considered safe.

References_____________________________________________________________________

(1) Ettakifi H, Abbassi K, Maouni S, Erbiai EH, Rahmouni A, Legssyer M, Saidi R, Lamrani Z, Esteves da Silva JCG, Pinto E, Maouni A. Chemical Characterization and Antifungal Activity of Blue Tansy (Tanacetum annuum) Essential Oil and Crude Extracts against Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. albedinis, an Agent Causing Bayoud Disease of Date Palm. Antibiotics (Basel). 2023 Sep 16;12(9):1451. doi: 10.3390/antibiotics12091451. 

Abstract. Tanacetum annuum L. is a Mediterranean plant, commonly known as Blue Tansy due to its blue colour as an essential oil, which is widely used for medicinal purposes. However, there are no studies on the bioactive compounds (especially, phenolic compounds) and the biological properties of their organic extracts. Herein, the purpose of the present work was to investigate the chemical composition of the essential oil and crude extracts of the T. annuum aerial parts collected from northern Morocco and to evaluate their antioxidant and antifungal activity against Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. albedinis, an agent causing Bayoud disease of the date palm, an important food source and commercial perennial crop in the Sahara and North Africa. Chemically, Folin-Ciocalteu and aluminium chloride colourimetric methods were used to determine the total phenolic (TPC) and total flavonoid (TFC) contents, respectively; polyphenols were characterized using HPLC-MS, while GC-MS was used to analyse the essential oil composition. Moreover, the evaluation of antioxidant and antifungal activities was carried out using the DPPH test and microdilution method, respectively. The results showed that the three T. annuum parts (stems, leaves and flowers) extracts contained important TPC and TFC with values varied between 51.32 and 116.32 mg/g of dry crude extract (DCE). HPLC-MS analysis revealed the identification and quantification of 19 phenolic acids and flavonoids with an emphasis on apigenin 7-glucoside (4540 µg/g of dry weight (DW)), luteolin 7-glucoside (2804 µg/g DW) and salicylic acid (1878 µg/g DW). Additionally, 39 biomolecules were identified in the essential oil using GC-MS, which were predominated by camphor (16.69%), α-pinene (12.37%), bornyl acetate (11.97%) and limonene (11.10%). The methanolic and hydro-methanolic extracts of T. annuum parts demonstrated a strong antioxidant property with IC50 values ranging between 0.22 and 0.65 mg/mL. Concerning antifungal activity, the essential oil and crude extracts of the Moroccan Blue Tansy exhibited a potent capacity against F. oxysporum f. sp. albedinis at low concentrations, with MIC and MFC values of 3.33 and 4.58 µL/mL for the essential oil and values of 3.33 and 9.17 mg/mL for crude extracts, respectively. Overall, these results demonstrated T. annuum as an important source of bioactive compounds and contribute significantly to the potential of using essential oils and extracts for controlling the Bayoud disease of date palms. Moreover, the finding suggests that T. annuum can be highly useful for phytosanitary and pharmaceutical industries.

Belcadi H, Aknouch A, El Amrani S, Chraka A, Lachkar M, Mouhib M, Zantar S, Ibnmansour A. Gamma-irradiation effect on the chemical composition and antibacterial activity of the moroccan tanacetum annuum L. essential oil. Heliyon. 2023 May 24;9(6):e16625. doi: 10.1016/j.heliyon.2023.e16625. PMID: 37292271; PMCID: PMC10245259.

Polyglyceryl-10 laurate is a chemical compound, ester of lauric acid.

The name defines the structure of the molecule:

• Polyglyceryl-10 refers to a polyglycerin derivative where the average number of glycerin units is 10. Polyglycerine is glycerin polymers, a three-carbon molecule that can be attached to fatty acids to form glycerides.
• Laurate refers to the lauric acid part of the molecule. Lauric acid is a twelve-carbon fatty acid.

Description of raw materials used in production -

• Glycerol - A trihydroxy molecule that serves as the backbone for polyglycerol.
• Lauric acid - A 12-carbon fatty acid that is used to esterify the polyglycerol.

The synthesis process takes place in different steps:

• Preparation. Lauric acid is a fatty acid derived from natural sources such as coconut oil or palm kernel oil. The oil is hydrolyzed to produce fatty acids, which are then separated and purified.
• Polymerization of glycerol. Glycerol is heated under vacuum conditions to induce polymerization, forming Polyglycerol. The number "10" in Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate indicates that on average, 10 glycerol units are polymerized to form Polyglycerol.
• Esterification with lauric acid. Polyglycerol enters into a reaction with lauric acid in an esterification reaction to produce Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate. This reaction involves the formation of an ester bond between the carboxyl group of lauric acid and the hydroxyl group of Polyglycerol. The reaction is catalyzed by an acid and involves heating the reagents to promote the reaction.
• Purification. The reaction mixture is purified to isolate Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate by processes such as distillation, filtration and drying.
• Quality control test. The final product is tested to ensure it meets the required specifications. This may involve testing for molecular weight, purity, moisture content, and other physical and chemical properties.

What it is for and where

Polyglyceryl-10 laurate and related compounds have been studied for various applications, including as supports for enzyme immobilization, in deep eutectic systems for enzymatic synthesis, and as potential permeation enhancers in pharmaceutical formulations.

Cosmetics

It is used in cosmetics to improve the penetration of other substances in microemulsions.

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

CAS   34406-66-1

Polyglyceryl laurate studies

Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) is a chemical compound, a surfactant used primarily in personal care products like shampoos, bubble baths, and bath bombs. 

The name describes the structure of the molecule:

• Sodium refers to the chemical element sodium. In detergent chemistry, it is often used to form soaps and other surfactant agents.
• Lauryl refers to lauric acid or a 12-carbon chain. It is commonly used in chemical formulas to create substances that help improve foaming and cleansing properties.
• Sulfoacetate is a functional group that contains sulfur and oxygen. It is known for its ability to reduce surface tension between two liquids or between a liquid and a solid, facilitating the removal of dirt and oils.

Chemical Industrial Synthesis Process

• Reagent selection. The production of SLSA begins with the selection of lauric acid and ethyl chloride as the primary raw materials.
• Synthesis. Lauric acid is initially treated with ethyl chloride to form ethyl lauryl chloride, a reactive intermediate.
• Neutralization. Ethyl lauryl chloride is then treated with sodium bisulfate to neutralize it and convert it into sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, which is the SLSA.
• Purification. After synthesis, the product is purified to remove impurities and unreacted by-products, using techniques such as crystallization or filtration.
• Drying. The purified product is then dried to remove residual water and obtain the powdered form of SLSA.
• Quality control. SLSA undergoes quality testing to confirm purity, effectiveness as a surfactant, and to ensure it is free from harmful contaminants.
• Storage. Finally, the powdered SLSA is packaged and stored in conditions that preserve its stability and quality until use.

What it is used for and where

Unlike the more harsh Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate is known for its ability to produce rich foam while being much gentler on the skin and hair. It is particularly valued in products intended for people with sensitive skin as it does not irritate or dry out the skin. This ingredient also contributes to creating a feeling of cleanliness and softness, making products more enjoyable to use.

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

• Cleansing agent. Ingredient that cleanses skin without exploiting the surface-active properties that produce a lowering of the surface tension of the stratum corneum. 
• Foaming.  Its function is to introduce gas bubbles into the water for a purely aesthetic factor, which does not affect the cleaning process, but only satisfies the commercial aspect of the detergent by helping to spread the detergent. This helps in the commercial success of a cleansing formulation. Since sebum has an inhibiting action on the bubble, more foam is produced in the second shampoo. In practice, it creates many small bubbles of air or other gases within a small volume of liquid, changing the surface tension of the liquid.
• Surfactant - Cleansing agent. Cosmetic products used to cleanse the skin utilise the surface-active action that produces a lowering of the surface tension of the stratum corneum, facilitating the removal of dirt and impurities. 

Main uses and benefits of sodium lauryl sulfoacetate.

Detergency. Provides effective cleaning without overly stripping natural oils from the skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin.

Foaming Properties. Produces a rich and luxurious foam, enhancing the user experience in products such as bubble baths, shampoos, and facial cleansers.

Skin Compatibility. It is known for its skin compatibility, reducing the risk of irritations and allergic reactions compared to harsher detergents.

Biodegradability. Due to its plant-based origin, it is readily biodegradable, helping to reduce the environmental impact of cleaning products.

Versatility. It can be used in a wide range of cosmetic products, from skincare to haircare, due to its effectiveness and gentleness.

Solubility. It is soluble in both water and oil, which facilitates the formulation of cosmetic products that require an oil-in-water emulsion.

Safety

Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate is generally considered a safe ingredient in cosmetics (1).

Molecular Formula  C₁₄H₂₇NaO₅S

Molecular Weight  330.42 g/mol

CAS  1847-58-1

UNII    D0Y70F2B9J

EC Number   217-431-7

DTXSID4027442

Nikkaji   J199.662B

Synonyms:

Dodecyl sodium sulfoacetate

Lathanol

Lathanol LAL

Nacconol LAL

References_____________________________________________________________________

(1) Burnett CL, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, Cohen DE, Klaassen CD, Liebler DC, Rettie AE, Ross D, Slaga TJ, Snyder PW, Tilton S, Fiume M, Heldreth B. Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate. Int J Toxicol. 2023 Dec;42(3_suppl):100S-101S. doi: 10.1177/10915818231204274. Epub 2023 Sep 28. PMID: 37767974.

Abstract. The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed updated information that has become available since their original assessment from 1987, along with updated information regarding product types, and frequency and concentrations of use, and reaffirmed their original conclusion that Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the practices of use and concentration as described in this report.