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Description

Al222
Al222 (25124 pt) 2025-Aug-03 17:31

Definition

Rosa Mosqueta (Rosa aff. Rubiginosa L.)  oil is a non-volatile, fixed vegetable oil obtained by cold pressing the seeds of Rosa moschata, a member of the Rosaceae family. Rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, natural retinoids, and antioxidants, it is widely used in dermatology and cosmetic formulations for its regenerative, anti-aging, and skin-repair properties.

Unlike essential oils, this is not an aromatic volatile oil, but a nutrient-dense lipid matrix, primarily valued for its effects on cell turnover, hydration, and epidermal healing.


1. Chemical structure and physical properties

Rosa Mosqueta oil is a complex triglyceride-based oil composed of fatty acids, unsaponifiables, and bioactive micronutrients.

Major fatty acids (as triglycerides):

  • Linoleic acid (omega-6): 35–50%

  • α-Linolenic acid (omega-3): 20–35%

  • Oleic acid (omega-9): 10–20%

  • Palmitic acid: 3–8%

  • Stearic acid: 1–3%

Unsaponifiables:

  • Tocopherols (vitamin E)

  • Phytosterols

  • Carotenoids

  • Natural retinoids (notably trans-retinoic acid)

Physical characteristics:

  • Appearance: fluid oil

  • Color: yellow-orange to reddish (unrefined)

  • Odor: grassy, slightly pungent (unrefined)

  • Density: ~0.91 g/cm³

  • Refractive index: 1.475–1.485

  • Solubility: insoluble in water, soluble in oils and organic solvents

  • Smoke point: ~190 °C

  • Saponification value: 185–200


2. Main bioactive constituents

  • Essential fatty acids (EFAs): crucial for maintaining the skin barrier and lipid metabolism

  • Natural retinoids: stimulate cell regeneration and collagen production

  • Tocopherols and carotenoids: protect against lipid peroxidation and oxidative damage

  • Phytosterols: anti-inflammatory and barrier-repair agents

These constituents make the oil particularly effective for tissue regeneration, scarring, and anti-aging purposes.


3. Production and extraction method

Cold pressing:

  • Seeds are mechanically pressed without heat to preserve thermolabile compounds

  • The oil is then mechanically filtered

  • Commercially available in virgin, refined, and deodorized forms

Virgin, unrefined oil maintains higher levels of active compounds, though it is more prone to oxidation and has a stronger natural odor.


4. Functional and sensorial profile

ParameterEffect
Skin absorptionVery high
Sensory profileLightweight, silky, non-greasy
Key effectsRegenerating, healing, brightening
Comedogenic rating1–2 (low)
PhotoreactivityNot photosensitizing, but oxidation-prone

5. Applications

Dermocosmetic uses:

  • Scar and stretch mark treatments

  • Mature and photoaged skin

  • Hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone

  • Dehydrated, sensitive, or irritated skin

  • Eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis (adjunctive use)

  • Eye and lip care products

  • Post-procedure (e.g., laser, peelings)

Formulations:

  • Regenerative face serums

  • Anti-aging facial oils

  • Elasticizing body creams

  • Spot-treatment scar balms

  • Natural and organic skin care lines


6. Safety and regulatory status

  • INCI name: Rosa Moschata Seed Oil

  • Well tolerated, even on sensitive or atopic skin

  • Not classified as an allergen or phototoxic

  • Not listed in EU Annex II or III (no restrictions)

  • Compliant with EU Regulation 1223/2009 for cosmetics

  • Shelf life:

    • 6–12 months (unrefined, without antioxidants)

    • Can be extended with vitamin E or storage in dark, cold conditions

Recommended packaging: dark glass bottles with minimal air exposure to avoid oxidation.


7. Conclusion

Rosa Mosqueta oil is a high-performance plant-derived oil with proven effects on skin regeneration, elasticity, and tone improvement. Its unique content of polyunsaturated fatty acids and natural retinoids makes it ideal for treating scars, stretch marks, premature aging, and skin damage.

It is widely used in therapeutic cosmetics, natural skin care, and post-inflammatory treatments, and is considered safe, effective, and well tolerated when stored and formulated correctly.

References__________________________________________________________________________

Dossi CG, Cadagan C, San Martín M, Espinosa A, González-Mañán D, Silva D, Mancilla RA, Tapia GS. Effects of rosa mosqueta oil supplementation in lipogenic markers associated with prevention of liver steatosis. Food Funct. 2017 Feb 22;8(2):832-841. doi: 10.1039/c6fo01762b. 

Abstract. Rosa mosqueta (RM) oil is rich in α-linolenic acid (ALA) - a precursor of eicosapentaenoic (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), and it has a high antioxidant activity due to its abundant content of tocopherols. Additionally, it has been observed that RM oil administration prevents hepatic steatosis. Thus, the aim of this study was to demonstrate the antilipogenic mechanism related to RM oil administration in a high-fat diet (HFD) fed mice model by evaluating markers associated with the regulation of lipid droplet metabolism (PLIN2, PLIN5 and PPAR-γ), and proteins associated with lipogenesis (FAS and SREBP-1c). C57BL/6J mice were fed either a control diet or a HFD, with and without RM oil supplementation for 12 weeks. The results showed that RM oil supplementation decreases hepatic PLIN2 and PPAR-γ mRNA expression and SREBP-1c, FAS and PLIN2 protein levels, whereas we did not find changes in the level of PLIN5 among the groups. These results suggest that modulation of lipogenic markers could be one of the mechanisms, through which RM oil supplementation prevents the hepatic steatosis induced by HFD consumption in a mice model.

Dossi CG , González-Mañán D , Romero N , Silva D , Videla LA , Tapia GS . Anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects of Rosa Mosqueta oil supplementation in rat liver ischemia-reperfusion. Food Funct. 2018 Sep 19;9(9):4847-4857. doi: 10.1039/c8fo00969d.

Abstract. Ischemia-reperfusion (IR) is a deleterious condition associated with liver transplantation or resection that involves pro-oxidant and pro-inflammatory mechanisms. Considering that Rosa Mosqueta (RM) oil composition is rich in protective components such as α-linolenic acid (ALA) and tocopherols, we studied the effects of RM oil supplementation given prior to an IR protocol. Male Sprague-Dawley rats receiving RM oil (0.4 mL d-1) for 21 days were subjected to 1 h of ischemia followed by 20 h reperfusion. Parameters of liver injury (serum transaminases, histology), oxidative stress [liver contents of protein carbonyls, thiobarbituric acid reactants, Nrf2 activity and its target mRNA expression of heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) and NADPH-quinone oxidoreductase-1 (NQO-1)] and inflammation [nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB) and its target mRNA expression of tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) and interleukine-1β (IL-1β)] were studied. RM oil increased liver ALA and its derived EPA and DHA fatty acids' contents, with enhancement in those of α- and γ-tocopherols. IR induced inflammatory liver injury, with enhancement in serum transaminases, oxidative stress-related parameters with reduced Nrf2 signaling, and higher pro-inflammatory cytokines, indexes that were attenuated or abrogated by RM oil pretreatment. It is concluded that RM oil supplementation represents a novel non-invasive preconditioning strategy against liver injury induced by IR that has potential clinical applications in metabolic stress conditions.

Franco D, Pinelo M, Sineiro J, Núñez MJ. Processing of Rosa rubiginosa: extraction of oil and antioxidant substances. Bioresour Technol. 2007 Dec;98(18):3506-12. doi: 10.1016/j.biortech.2006.11.012. 

Abstract. In this work, a study about the effect of various operational conditions on the quantity of oil and soluble solids capable of being extracted from rosa mosqueta rosehip seeds is undertaken. Both the particle sizes assayed (0.6mm, 0.6-1mm, and 1-2mm) and the solvent-to-solid ratios (15:1, 25:1, and 50:1) showed a remarkable influence on the extraction efficiency. Extracted substances obtained by using the minor particle size or the maximum solvent-to-solid ratio doubled, at least, those attained by working under any other conditions. A major weight of kinetics upon equilibrium factors can be inferred from the short extraction times and high effective diffusivity values (being the lower one 1.97x10(-11)m(2)s(-1)) assessed for any condition. The antioxidant power of extracts was evaluated by ability to scavenge the DPPH radical. Results noteworthy depended on the solvent used to extract; whilst an approximately 80% DPPH inhibition percentage was reached in ethanol extracts, values of 52.2% or 41% were found in methanol and aqueous extracts, respectively. Even so, antioxidant capacity of Rosa rubiginosa extracts was much higher than that reported for other agricultural matrixes.

D'Espessailles A, Dossi CG, Espinosa A, González-Mañán D, Tapia GS. Dietary Rosa mosqueta (Rosa rubiginosa) oil prevents high diet-induced hepatic steatosis in mice. Food Funct. 2015 Sep;6(9):3109-16. doi: 10.1039/c5fo00741k. 

Abstract. The effects of dietary Rosa mosqueta (RM, Rosa rubiginosa) oil, rich in α-linolenic acid, in the prevention of liver steatosis were studied in mice fed a high fat diet (HFD). C57BL/6j mice were fed either a control diet or HFD with or without RM oil for 12 weeks. The results indicate that RM oil supplementation decreases fat infiltration of the liver from 43.8% to 6.2%, improving the hepatic oxidative state, insulin levels, HOMA index, and both body weight and adipose tissue weight of HFD plus RM treated animals compared to HFD without supplementation. In addition, the DHA concentration in the liver was significantly increased in HFD fed mice with RM oil compared to HFD (3 vs. 1.6 g per 100 g FAME). The n-6/n-3 ratio was not significantly modified by treatment with RM. Our findings suggest that RM oil supplementation prevents the development of hepatic steatosis and the obese phenotype observed in HFD fed mice.

Moreno Gimenez JC, Bueno J, Navas J, Camacho F. Treatment of skin ulcer using oil of mosqueta rose. Med Cutan Ibero Lat Am. 1990;18(1):63-6.

Abstract. Oil rose of mosqueta (Rosa aff. Rubiginosa L.) is a concentrated solution in linoleic (41%) and linolenic acid (39%), that offers benefit therapeutic effects in the wound healing. Ten patients affected of leg ulcers and post-surgical wounds were treated by 26% oil concentrated rose of mosqueta with very notable improvement on its healing compared with the control group. Due to the lack of side effects, we believe rose of mosqueta oil is very usefull to these conditions. Mechanism of actions and others indications are discussed.

Ochando-Ibernón G, Schneller-Pavelescu L, Silvestre-Salvador JF. Allergic contact dermatitis caused by "Rosa mosqueta" oil. Contact Dermatitis. 2018 Oct;79(4):259-260. doi: 10.1111/cod.13083. Epub 2018 Jul 19. PMID: 30022513.