“Rosa mosqueta” è il nome comune (in spagnolo e talvolta anche in italiano) che fa riferimento alla specie botanica Rosa rubiginosa.
Tuttavia, nella produzione di olio di rosa mosqueta è molto più diffuso l’uso dei frutti/semi di Rosa rubiginosa (sweet briar o eglantier), perciò si trova spesso in etichetta:
Se invece l’olio è estratto proprio da Rosa moschata, l’INCI corretto sarà:
Definizione
L’olio di rosa mosqueta è un olio vegetale non volatile, ottenuto dalla spremitura a freddo dei semi della pianta Rosa moschata, appartenente alla famiglia delle Rosaceae. È noto per il suo elevato contenuto di acidi grassi polinsaturi, in particolare acido linoleico e acido α-linolenico, nonché per la presenza di retinoidi naturali e antiossidanti. È ampiamente utilizzato in dermatologia e cosmetica per il suo effetto rigenerante sulla pelle.
1. Struttura chimica e proprietà fisiche
Non trattandosi di una singola molecola ma di una miscela complessa di trigliceridi e composti bioattivi, l’olio presenta le seguenti caratteristiche:
Acidi grassi principali (in forma di trigliceridi):
Acido linoleico (omega-6): 35–50%
Acido α-linolenico (omega-3): 20–35%
Acido oleico (omega-9): 10–20%
Acido palmitico: 3–8%
Acido stearico: 1–3%
Sostanze insaponificabili:
Proprietà fisiche:
Aspetto: liquido fluido
Colore: da giallo-aranciato a rossastro (non raffinato)
Odore: erbaceo, leggermente acidulo (grezzo)
Densità: circa 0,91 g/cm³
Indice di rifrazione: 1,475–1,485
Solubilità: insolubile in acqua, solubile in oli e solventi organici
Punto di fumo: ~190 °C
Indice di saponificazione: 185–200
2. Principali costituenti bioattivi
Acidi grassi essenziali (AGE): supportano il metabolismo lipidico cutaneo e la rigenerazione dell’epidermide
Retinoidi naturali: stimolano il turnover cellulare e la produzione di collagene
Tocoferoli e carotenoidi: agiscono come antiossidanti fisiologici
Fitosteroli: modulano l’infiammazione e rafforzano la barriera cutanea
3. Metodo di produzione o estrazione
Spremitura a freddo dei semi:
I semi vengono essiccati e sottoposti a pressatura meccanica senza calore per preservare i composti termolabili
L’olio viene poi filtrato meccanicamente
Le versioni commerciali possono essere raffinate per rimuovere impurità o deodorizzate, ma questo riduce il contenuto di nutrienti attivi
La versione vergine non raffinata è preferibile in applicazioni dermocosmetiche.
4. Proprietà funzionali e sensoriali
| Parametro | Valore / effetto |
|---|
| Assorbimento cutaneo | Elevato |
| Sensazione al tatto | Leggera, setosa, non untuosa |
| Azione | Rigenerante, cicatrizzante, elasticizzante |
| Comedogenicità | 1–2 (bassa) |
| Fotoreattività | Non fotosensibilizzante ma sensibile all’ossidazione |
5. Applicazioni
In dermocosmesi:
Trattamento di cicatrici e smagliature
Pelli mature: supporto anti-age grazie alla stimolazione del rinnovamento cellulare
Pelli secche, disidratate o sensibili
Discromie e macchie cutanee
Eczema, dermatiti, psoriasi (uso complementare)
Contorno occhi e labbra
Trattamenti post-peeling o dopo laser dermatologico
In prodotti finiti:
Sieri rigeneranti
Oli viso anti-age
Lozioni elasticizzanti corpo
Trattamenti localizzati cicatrizzanti
Cosmetici biologici e naturali
6. Sicurezza e normativa
INCI: Rosa Moschata Seed Oil
Non irritante, non sensibilizzante, non fototossico
Considerato sicuro per uso topico, anche in prodotti leave-on
Conforme al Regolamento (CE) 1223/2009 sui cosmetici
Non soggetto ad etichettatura allergenica secondo Allegato III
Stabilità limitata: da 6 a 12 mesi (se non stabilizzato o conservato in frigo)
Sensibile all’ossidazione: preferibile confezionamento in flaconi scuri, conservazione al riparo da luce e calore
7. Conclusione
L’olio di rosa mosqueta è un ingrediente funzionale ad alta efficacia, apprezzato per le sue capacità rigenerative, elasticizzanti e uniformanti dell’incarnato. Grazie alla combinazione unica di acidi grassi essenziali, antiossidanti e composti retinoidi naturali, rappresenta una scelta privilegiata nelle formulazioni anti-età, cicatrizzanti e per la cura della pelle sensibile o compromessa.
La sua efficacia è supportata da numerose evidenze scientifiche dermatologiche, ed è particolarmente indicato in trattamenti naturali e formulazioni eco-dermocompatibili.
Bibliografia__________________________________________________________________________
Dossi CG, Cadagan C, San Martín M, Espinosa A, González-Mañán D, Silva D, Mancilla RA, Tapia GS. Effects of rosa mosqueta oil supplementation in lipogenic markers associated with prevention of liver steatosis. Food Funct. 2017 Feb 22;8(2):832-841. doi: 10.1039/c6fo01762b.
Abstract. Rosa mosqueta (RM) oil is rich in α-linolenic acid (ALA) - a precursor of eicosapentaenoic (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), and it has a high antioxidant activity due to its abundant content of tocopherols. Additionally, it has been observed that RM oil administration prevents hepatic steatosis. Thus, the aim of this study was to demonstrate the antilipogenic mechanism related to RM oil administration in a high-fat diet (HFD) fed mice model by evaluating markers associated with the regulation of lipid droplet metabolism (PLIN2, PLIN5 and PPAR-γ), and proteins associated with lipogenesis (FAS and SREBP-1c). C57BL/6J mice were fed either a control diet or a HFD, with and without RM oil supplementation for 12 weeks. The results showed that RM oil supplementation decreases hepatic PLIN2 and PPAR-γ mRNA expression and SREBP-1c, FAS and PLIN2 protein levels, whereas we did not find changes in the level of PLIN5 among the groups. These results suggest that modulation of lipogenic markers could be one of the mechanisms, through which RM oil supplementation prevents the hepatic steatosis induced by HFD consumption in a mice model.
Dossi CG , González-Mañán D , Romero N , Silva D , Videla LA , Tapia GS . Anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects of Rosa Mosqueta oil supplementation in rat liver ischemia-reperfusion. Food Funct. 2018 Sep 19;9(9):4847-4857. doi: 10.1039/c8fo00969d.
Abstract. Ischemia-reperfusion (IR) is a deleterious condition associated with liver transplantation or resection that involves pro-oxidant and pro-inflammatory mechanisms. Considering that Rosa Mosqueta (RM) oil composition is rich in protective components such as α-linolenic acid (ALA) and tocopherols, we studied the effects of RM oil supplementation given prior to an IR protocol. Male Sprague-Dawley rats receiving RM oil (0.4 mL d-1) for 21 days were subjected to 1 h of ischemia followed by 20 h reperfusion. Parameters of liver injury (serum transaminases, histology), oxidative stress [liver contents of protein carbonyls, thiobarbituric acid reactants, Nrf2 activity and its target mRNA expression of heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) and NADPH-quinone oxidoreductase-1 (NQO-1)] and inflammation [nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB) and its target mRNA expression of tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) and interleukine-1β (IL-1β)] were studied. RM oil increased liver ALA and its derived EPA and DHA fatty acids' contents, with enhancement in those of α- and γ-tocopherols. IR induced inflammatory liver injury, with enhancement in serum transaminases, oxidative stress-related parameters with reduced Nrf2 signaling, and higher pro-inflammatory cytokines, indexes that were attenuated or abrogated by RM oil pretreatment. It is concluded that RM oil supplementation represents a novel non-invasive preconditioning strategy against liver injury induced by IR that has potential clinical applications in metabolic stress conditions.
Franco D, Pinelo M, Sineiro J, Núñez MJ. Processing of Rosa rubiginosa: extraction of oil and antioxidant substances. Bioresour Technol. 2007 Dec;98(18):3506-12. doi: 10.1016/j.biortech.2006.11.012.
Abstract. In this work, a study about the effect of various operational conditions on the quantity of oil and soluble solids capable of being extracted from rosa mosqueta rosehip seeds is undertaken. Both the particle sizes assayed (0.6mm, 0.6-1mm, and 1-2mm) and the solvent-to-solid ratios (15:1, 25:1, and 50:1) showed a remarkable influence on the extraction efficiency. Extracted substances obtained by using the minor particle size or the maximum solvent-to-solid ratio doubled, at least, those attained by working under any other conditions. A major weight of kinetics upon equilibrium factors can be inferred from the short extraction times and high effective diffusivity values (being the lower one 1.97x10(-11)m(2)s(-1)) assessed for any condition. The antioxidant power of extracts was evaluated by ability to scavenge the DPPH radical. Results noteworthy depended on the solvent used to extract; whilst an approximately 80% DPPH inhibition percentage was reached in ethanol extracts, values of 52.2% or 41% were found in methanol and aqueous extracts, respectively. Even so, antioxidant capacity of Rosa rubiginosa extracts was much higher than that reported for other agricultural matrixes.
D'Espessailles A, Dossi CG, Espinosa A, González-Mañán D, Tapia GS. Dietary Rosa mosqueta (Rosa rubiginosa) oil prevents high diet-induced hepatic steatosis in mice. Food Funct. 2015 Sep;6(9):3109-16. doi: 10.1039/c5fo00741k.
Abstract. The effects of dietary Rosa mosqueta (RM, Rosa rubiginosa) oil, rich in α-linolenic acid, in the prevention of liver steatosis were studied in mice fed a high fat diet (HFD). C57BL/6j mice were fed either a control diet or HFD with or without RM oil for 12 weeks. The results indicate that RM oil supplementation decreases fat infiltration of the liver from 43.8% to 6.2%, improving the hepatic oxidative state, insulin levels, HOMA index, and both body weight and adipose tissue weight of HFD plus RM treated animals compared to HFD without supplementation. In addition, the DHA concentration in the liver was significantly increased in HFD fed mice with RM oil compared to HFD (3 vs. 1.6 g per 100 g FAME). The n-6/n-3 ratio was not significantly modified by treatment with RM. Our findings suggest that RM oil supplementation prevents the development of hepatic steatosis and the obese phenotype observed in HFD fed mice.
Moreno Gimenez JC, Bueno J, Navas J, Camacho F. Treatment of skin ulcer using oil of mosqueta rose. Med Cutan Ibero Lat Am. 1990;18(1):63-6.
Abstract. Oil rose of mosqueta (Rosa aff. Rubiginosa L.) is a concentrated solution in linoleic (41%) and linolenic acid (39%), that offers benefit therapeutic effects in the wound healing. Ten patients affected of leg ulcers and post-surgical wounds were treated by 26% oil concentrated rose of mosqueta with very notable improvement on its healing compared with the control group. Due to the lack of side effects, we believe rose of mosqueta oil is very usefull to these conditions. Mechanism of actions and others indications are discussed.
Ochando-Ibernón G, Schneller-Pavelescu L, Silvestre-Salvador JF. Allergic contact dermatitis caused by "Rosa mosqueta" oil. Contact Dermatitis. 2018 Oct;79(4):259-260. doi: 10.1111/cod.13083. Epub 2018 Jul 19. PMID: 30022513.
