Aspergillus/Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Ferment Filtrate is a filtrate obtained from the fermentation of Hippophae rhamnoides (Sea buckthorn) seeds with the fungus Aspergillus. This bioactive fermentation process transforms the nutrients in the seeds into more bioavailable compounds, enriching the filtrate with vitamins, fatty acids, and antioxidants. The filtrate is primarily used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, regenerative, and protective properties, which help improve skin health and elasticity.
Chemical Composition and Structure
The fermentation filtrate contains essential fatty acids such as omega-3 and omega-6, vitamin E, flavonoids, and other antioxidants that protect the skin from oxidative stress and promote cell renewal. During fermentation, the enzymes produced by the Aspergillus fungus break down nutrients into more easily absorbed forms, enhancing the effectiveness of the product.
Physical Properties
Aspergillus/Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Ferment Filtrate is a clear or slightly cloudy liquid, with a light color and a lightweight texture. It is water-soluble, making it easy to incorporate into serums, lotions, and moisturizers. Its light texture allows for quick absorption into the skin, without leaving an oily residue.
Production Process
The filtrate is produced through a fermentation process in which sea buckthorn seeds are treated with the Aspergillus fungus. During fermentation, enzymes produced by the fungus break down complex nutrients into simpler, bioavailable compounds, enriching the filtrate with bioactive substances. The final product is purified to ensure high quality and safety.
Cultivation of Aspergillus: Aspergillus strains are cultivated in a specific growth medium optimized for the proliferation of fungi. This phase is crucial to ensure adequate production of active metabolites during the fermentation process.
Preparation of Hippophae Rhamnoides Seeds: The seeds of Hippophae rhamnoides are harvested and cleaned to remove dirt and impurities. This step is essential to ensure the quality of the final extract.
Fermentation: The seeds of Hippophae rhamnoides are added to the growth medium containing Aspergillus. The mixture is incubated under controlled temperature and pH conditions to promote the fermentation process. During this process, the fungi convert the nutrients present in the seeds into beneficial metabolites.
Filtration: After the fermentation period, the mixture is filtered to remove undissolved solids, resulting in a liquid filtrate rich in nutrients and bioactive compounds derived from the fermentation.
Concentration (If necessary): The filtrate may be further concentrated through evaporation or other techniques to obtain a product with a higher concentration of active ingredients.
Quality Control and Packaging: Finally, the Aspergillus/Hippophae rhamnoides seed ferment filtrate undergoes quality control checks to verify its purity, efficacy, and compliance with standards. After analysis, it is packaged for distribution and use in cosmetic products and dietary supplements.
Applications
Regenerative Products: With its ability to stimulate cell renewal and promote skin regeneration, this filtrate is ideal for damaged or mature skin.
Moisturizers: Its moisturizing properties help keep the skin soft and hydrated, reducing dryness and improving skin elasticity.
Anti-aging: The presence of antioxidants and essential fatty acids helps reduce the signs of aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines, improving skin radiance.
INCI Functions:
Antioxidant agent. Ingredient that counteracts oxidative stress and prevents cell damage. Free radicals, pathological inflammatory processes, reactive nitrogen species and reactive oxygen species are responsible for the ageing process and many diseases caused by oxidation.
Humectant. Hygroscopic compound used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: horny, the most superficial, granular, spinous, shiny, and basal. Humectants have the ability to retain the water they attract from the air in the stratum corneum and have the function of moisturising the skin. They are best used before emollients, which are oil-based.
Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
Health and Safety Considerations
Safety in Use
Aspergillus/Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Ferment Filtrate is considered safe for cosmetic use. No significant irritations or adverse reactions have been reported. Major regulatory authorities, such as the European Union and the FDA, approve its use in cosmetic products.
Allergic Reactions
Allergic reactions to this ingredient are rare, but it is advisable to perform a patch test before use, especially on sensitive skin.
Toxicity and Carcinogenicity
It is considered safe and beneficial for the skin due to its nourishing and regenerative properties.
Environmental Considerations
The fermentation process is eco-friendly and sustainable, using natural resources and producing minimal waste. Fermentation with Aspergillus is an efficient method of transforming the nutrients in the seeds, enhancing their effectiveness without significant environmental impact.
Regulatory Status
The filtrate is approved for use in cosmetics by major regulatory authorities, such as the European Union and the FDA in the United States.
Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) Studies
From the leaves and berries of the sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) is extracted chloroform and n-hexane, components with intense antibacterial activity (1).
It is a rich source of vitamins C and E, carotenoids, flavonoids, anthocyanins, organic acids, amino acids, sterols, triterpenols and isoprenols (2) with an antioxidant activity.
The berries produce an oil containing carotenoids, palmitic, palmitolic and oleic acid, while the seed oil is composed of linoleic, linolenic and oleic acid as main components (3) .
This oil has traditionally been used to improve blood circulation and for the treatment of dermatological problems including wounds, gastritis, peptic ulcers, uterine erosion and inflammatory disorders of the genital organs (4).
Sea buckthorn has significant cardioprotective activity and a positive effects on the healing of the cardiovascular system, including inhibition of platelet activation (in particular platelet aggregation), reduction of cholesterol concentration, blood pressure and antioxidant action (5).
In this study, a positive evaluation of the topical effects on atopic lesions as it improved the severity of dermatitis by reducing epidermal thickness (6).
The results of this study on the extract of Sea buckthorn, provide a basis for affordable, low side-effect therapy for the treatment of psoriasis (7).
Cosmetics
It produces a regenerating effect on the skin produced by carotenoids, vitamin E and unsaturated fats contained in the pulp and seeds.
Other applications
It is placed in foods, candies, to give a particular taste.
Sea buckthorn studies
