Hydroxyproline: properties, uses, and INCI functions
Hydroxyproline is an amino acid derived from proline, an important component for collagen formation and maintaining skin integrity.
Industrial Production Process
- Collection of raw materials. Raw materials, often collagen or gelatin from animal sources, are collected for amino acid extraction.
- Enzymatic hydrolysis. The collagen or gelatin is treated with specific enzymes to break down the proteins into their amino acid units.
- Isolation of proline. During the hydrolysis process, proline is isolated from other amino acids using chromatography or other separation methods.
- Oxidation. The proline undergoes an oxidation process with oxidizing agents like ascorbic acid or other catalysts to convert proline to hydroxyproline.
- Purification. The hydroxyproline is purified through techniques like crystallization or chromatography to remove impurities.
- Quality control. The final product undergoes rigorous quality testing to ensure its purity and compliance with required standards.

What it is used for and where
Cosmetics - INCI Functions
- Antistatic agent. Static electricity build-up has a direct influence on products and causes electrostatic adsorption. The antistatic ingredient reduces static build-up and surface resistivity on the surface of the skin and hair.
- Hair conditioning agent. A significant number of ingredients with specific and targeted purposes may co-exist in hair shampoo formulations: cleansers, conditioners, thickeners, matting agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, special additives. However, the indispensable ingredients are the cleansers and conditioners as they are necessary and sufficient for hair cleansing and manageability. The others act as commercial and non-essential auxiliaries such as: appearance, fragrance, colouring, etc. Hair conditioning agents have the task of increasing shine, manageability and volume, and reducing static electricity, especially after treatments such as colouring, ironing, waving, drying and brushing. They are, in practice, dispersants that may contain cationic surfactants, thickeners, emollients, polymers. The typology of hair conditioning agents includes: intensive conditioners, instant conditioners, thickening conditioners, drying conditioners. They can perform their task generally accompanied by other different ingredients.
- Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
- Surfactant - Cleansing agent. Cosmetic products used to cleanse the skin utilise the surface-active action that produces a lowering of the surface tension of the stratum corneum, facilitating the removal of dirt and impurities.
Cosmetic Applications
Anti-aging Properties. Hydroxyproline stimulates collagen production, helping to improve skin elasticity and firmness, thus reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
Skin Regeneration. It supports skin regeneration, helping repair skin damage and promoting a brighter and more even complexion.
Hydration. As a humectant, it attracts moisture to the skin, keeping it hydrated and soft.
Soothing Effects. It reduces inflammation and soothes irritated skin, making it suitable for post-procedure treatments or sensitive skin.
Versatile Applications. It can be incorporated into a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and lotions, due to its benefits for skin health and appearance.
Other Applications
Clinical Research. It is used as a biochemical marker in tests to assess collagen degradation (1) and connective tissue health (2) in various clinical conditions.
Dietary Supplements. It is sometimes added to supplements to support joint health and collagen production.
Bone Health Research. It is studied for its potential impact on the prevention and treatment of osteoporosis and other bone disorders (3).
![]() | ![]() |
Molecular Formula C5H9NO3
Molecular Weight 131.13 g/mol
CAS 51-35-4
UNII RMB44WO89X
EC Number 200-091-9
DTXSID10883225
Synonyms:
L-Hydroxyproline
trans-4-Hydroxy-L-proline

