Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer is a complex polymer used primarily in the cosmetic industry as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and texture enhancer. This polymer is formed by the reaction of Polyglycerin-3 and Dilinoleic Acid, end-capped with a mixture of stearic and isostearic acids. This unique structure enhances the performance and sensory properties of various skincare and makeup formulations.

Chemical Composition and Structure

This complex polymer combines the moisturizing and conditioning benefits of Polyglycerin-3, a polymer derived from glycerol, with Dilinoleic Acid, known for its rich emollient properties. The polymer is further end-capped with stearic and isostearic acids, which contribute to its thickening and stabilizing capabilities. The resultant polymer is highly effective at stabilizing emulsions, providing a rich, creamy texture, and enhancing the overall feel of cosmetic products on the skin.

Physical Properties

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer typically appears as a viscous, semi-solid substance that is clear to slightly yellowish in color. It is soluble in oils and has limited water solubility, making it ideal for use in both oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions, contributing to a rich, non-greasy feel.

Production Process

Synthesis and End-Capping: The production involves the reaction of Polyglycerin-3 with Dilinoleic Acid, followed by end-capping with a mixture of stearic and isostearic acids. This process requires precise control of reaction conditions to ensure the formation of a stable and effective polymer.
Purification: Following synthesis, the polymer undergoes extensive purification to remove any unreacted materials and by-products, ensuring its purity and suitability for cosmetic use.
Quality Control: Rigorous testing is conducted on the final product to assess its purity, stability, and performance in various cosmetic formulations. These tests often include evaluations of emulsion stability, viscosity, and compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients.

Applications

Cosmetic Products: Widely used in creams, lotions, and lip balms where it acts as an effective emulsifier and stabilizer, helping to blend and stabilize the mixture of oil and water components and improving the product's overall texture and feel.
Skin Care: Ideal for use in moisturizing and anti-aging products, providing long-lasting hydration and enhancing skin barrier function due to its rich nutritional profile.
Makeup: Employed in foundations and lipsticks to improve texture, spreadability, and wear, ensuring a smooth, durable finish.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer is considered safe for use in cosmetic products and is generally well-tolerated by the skin. It is non-irritating and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. The use of naturally derived ingredients enhances its profile as an environmentally friendly choice. Proper use within recommended concentrations is essential to ensure safety and maximize effectiveness.

In cosmetic labeling, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer is listed under its INCI name, reflecting its chemical identity as a complex polymer formed by the reaction of Polyglycerin-3 and Dilinoleic Acid, end-capped with a mixture of stearic and isostearic acids, used for regulatory and commercial purposes in the cosmetics industry.

INCI


Humectant. Hygroscopic compound used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: horny, the most superficial, granular, spinous, shiny, and basal. Humectants have the ability to retain the water they attract from the air in the stratum corneum and have the function of moisturising the skin. They are best used before emollients, which are oil-based.

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
Synonyms:

CAS: 1361332-58-2