Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Succinate is a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient extensively used as an emulsifier and skin conditioner in various skincare and makeup products. This compound is produced by the esterification of polyglycerin-3 with a blend of capric acid, caprylic acid, and succinic acid, resulting in a monoester that combines the benefits of these components. This ingredient is recognized for its ability to stabilize emulsions and improve the moisturizing and texturizing properties of cosmetic formulations.

Chemical Composition and Structure

This ester capitalizes on the hydrating properties of polyglycerin-3, a polymer of glycerol, combined with the light skin feel and quick absorption characteristics of capric and caprylic acids—medium-chain fatty acids—and the buffering and chelating abilities of succinic acid. The result is a versatile emulsifier that can enhance the sensory attributes of personal care products while contributing to their stability and efficacy.

Physical Properties

Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Succinate appears as a clear to slightly yellowish viscous liquid. It is soluble in oils and partially soluble in water, which makes it particularly suitable for creating stable oil-in-water emulsions that feel lightweight and non-greasy on the skin.

Production Process

Synthesis: The production of Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Succinate involves the esterification of polyglycerin-3 with a mixture of capric acid, caprylic acid, and succinic acid. This process requires precise control over reaction conditions, including temperature and pH, to ensure effective ester bond formation.

Purification: Following synthesis, the ester undergoes purification processes to remove any unreacted materials and by-products, ensuring high purity suitable for cosmetic use.

Quality Control: Extensive quality control testing is conducted on the final product to assess its purity, stability, and performance in various formulations. Tests typically include measurements of emulsion stability, pH, and compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients.

Applications

• Cosmetic Products: Widely used in lotions, creams, and serums, where it acts as an effective emulsifier, helping to blend and stabilize the mixture of oil and water components, thereby enhancing the product's texture and application properties.

INCI Functions:

Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Surfactant - Emulsifying agent. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable and are used to soothe or soften the skin and emulsify, so they need a specific, stabilising ingredient. This ingredient forms a film, lowers the surface tension and makes two immiscible liquids miscible. A very important factor affecting the stability of the emulsion is the amount of the emulsifying agent. Emulsifiers have the property of reducing the oil/water or water/oil interfacial tension, improving the stability of the emulsion and also directly influencing the stability, sensory properties and surface tension of sunscreens by modulating the filmometric performance.

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

Solvent. It is the substance for dissolving or dispersing surfactants, oils, dyes, flavourings, bactericidal preservatives in solution.In fact, it dissolves other components present in a cosmetic formulation. Solvents are generally liquid (aqueous and non-aqueous).

Surfactant - Cleansing agent. Cosmetic products used to cleanse the skin utilise the surface-active action that produces a lowering of the surface tension of the stratum corneum, facilitating the removal of dirt and impurities.

CAS: 1798313-25-3

• Skin Care: Ideal for use in moisturizing products intended for all skin types, providing a balance of hydration and a lightweight feel.
• Makeup: Utilized in makeup formulations to improve product spreadability and wear time, ensuring a smooth, even finish.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Succinate is considered safe for use in cosmetic products and is generally well-tolerated by the skin. It is non-irritating and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. Derived from a combination of natural and synthetic acids, 

it is viewed as an environmentally responsible ingredient. Proper usage within recommended concentrations is essential to ensure safety and maximize effectiveness.