Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate is a cosmetic ingredient commonly used as an emulsifier and skin conditioner in various skincare and makeup products. It is formed by the esterification of polyglycerin-3 with pentaricinoleic acid, a derivative of ricinoleic acid, resulting in a complex ester known as 9-(Z)-Octadecanoic acid, 12-(R)-hydroxy-, pentaester with triglycerol. This ingredient is valued for its ability to stabilize complex emulsions and enhance the moisturizing properties of cosmetic products.

Chemical Composition and Structure

This ester integrates the moisture-retaining properties of polyglycerin-3, a multifunctional humectant, with the unique characteristics of pentaricinoleic acid. Pentaricinoleic acid is known for its hydrating and soothing effects on the skin, which make it particularly effective in products aimed at improving skin barrier function and hydration.

Physical Properties

Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate typically appears as a thick, viscous liquid that is amber to golden in color. It has good solubility in oils and fats but is less soluble in water, which makes it an excellent choice for oil-based cosmetic formulations such as creams, lotions, and balms where a rich texture is desired.

Production Process

Synthesis: The synthesis involves a complex esterification process where polyglycerin-3 is reacted with pentaricinoleic acid. This requires precise control over reaction conditions including temperature, pH, and catalyst presence to ensure the formation of a high-quality ester.
Purification: Following synthesis, the product is purified through methods such as filtration and distillation to remove unreacted components and impurities, ensuring that it meets the high standards required for cosmetic use.
Quality Control: The final product undergoes extensive testing to confirm its purity, efficacy, and stability. These tests often include assessments of emulsion stability, compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients, and performance in skin care formulations.

Applications

Cosmetic Products: Used extensively in formulations that require a robust emulsifying agent, such as sunscreens, makeup removers, and hydrating creams.
Skin Care: Ideal for use in moisturizing treatments that target dry, sensitive, or irritated skin due to its soothing and barrier-enhancing properties.
Makeup: Applied in foundations and concealers where it helps to maintain a smooth, consistent application and increases product longevity on the skin.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate is considered safe for use in cosmetic products and is generally well-tolerated by the skin. It is non-irritating and suitable for all skin types, including those with sensitive skin. As it is derived from naturally occurring fatty acids, it is seen as an environmentally responsible choice. Ensuring use within recommended concentrations is essential for maintaining its safety and effectiveness.

INCI


Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Surfactant - Emulsifying agent. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable and are used to soothe or soften the skin and emulsify, so they need a specific, stabilising ingredient. This ingredient forms a film, lowers the surface tension and makes two immiscible liquids miscible. A very important factor affecting the stability of the emulsion is the amount of the emulsifying agent. Emulsifiers have the property of reducing the oil/water or water/oil interfacial tension, improving the stability of the emulsion and also directly influencing the stability, sensory properties and surface tension of sunscreens by modulating the filmometric performance.
Synonyms:

CAS: 221354-73-0