Hedera Helix leaf/stem extract is a compound of natural origin obtained from ivy.

Industrial Production Process

The industrial process related to Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract involves the harvesting of ivy leaves and stems, extraction of beneficial compounds, and purification of the extract. This extract is used in cosmetics and skincare products for its comprehensive benefits, including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, soothing, firming, and antioxidant properties.

• Leaf and Stem Harvesting - Ivy leaves and stems are harvested, preferably at times when the active ingredient content is highest. Harvesting can be conducted manually or with mechanical methods.
• Extraction - The collected leaves and stems undergo extraction processes to separate beneficial compounds. Extraction can be carried out using solvents such as water or ethanol, depending on the solubility of the compounds of interest.
• Purification - The obtained extract is purified to remove impurities and concentrated to enhance its effectiveness. This process may include filtration and vacuum evaporation, among other purification techniques.
• Quality Control - Ivy leaf/stem extract undergoes quality control checks to confirm the presence of active ingredients, purity, and the absence of contaminants, complying with the standards required for cosmetic use.

Form and Color

Typically appears as a dark green liquid or as a powder, depending on the method of extraction and concentration.

What it is for and where

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

Anticaking agent. This compound facilitates free flow and prevents aggregation or clumping of substances in a formulation by reducing the tendency of certain particles to stick together.

Antimicrobial agent. This ingredient is able to suppress or inhibit the growth and replication of a broad spectrum of microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi and viruses by making the stratum corneum temporarily bactericidal and fungicidal.

Cosmetic astringent. This ingredient exerts a direct effect on the skin by tightening dilated pores by contracting stratum corneum cells and removing superfluous oil.

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

Soothing. Ingredient with the task of restoring moisture to the skin, helping in the healing process of irritation, inflammation and skin disorders.

Tonic. This product is used to treat the hair when the scalp is clean or after shampooing. It stimulates hair growth, revitalises the scalp for healthy hair growth and reduces hair loss. It provides a feeling of well-being on skin and hair.

CAS   84082-54-2

EC number       282-000-2

Commercial Applications

Cosmetic Industry. Hedera Helix extract is widely used in cosmetic products for its astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It is found in creams, lotions, and skin care products.

Skin Benefits. Helps to reduce inflammation, improve circulation, and tone the skin, making it useful in anti-cellulite treatments and firming skin products.

Hair Care. Also used in some hair care products to promote scalp health and reduce dandruff.

Safety

 Generally considered safe for topical use, but it can cause skin irritation in sensitive individuals or if applied in high concentrations.

Hedera Helix, commonly known as common ivy, is an evergreen climbing plant belonging to the Araliaceae family. It is used for its decorative properties, medicinal uses, and ground cover.

Chemical Composition and Properties

Ivy contains triterpenoid saponins such as hederasaponin B and hederacoside C, along with phenolic compounds and flavonoids. These compounds give the plant antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.

Biological Activities

Studies have shown that ivy possesses antioxidant, antibacterial, and potential antitumor activities (1). It has also been evaluated for its antiviral properties and the treatment of inflammatory conditions.

Therapeutic Potential

Ivy is traditionally used to treat various respiratory conditions (2), such as bronchitis and asthma, due to its expectorant and mucolytic properties. It is also used in cosmetics for its astringent and skin-toning properties.

Industrial and Pharmaceutical Applications

Ivy extracts are used in the pharmaceutical industry for the production of medicines and dietary supplements. Furthermore, they are applied in cosmetics for the formulation of skincare products.

References_____________________________________________________________________

(1) Bezruk I, Materiienko A, Gubar S, Proskurina K, Budanova L, Ivanauskas L, Georgiyants V. Estimation of the influence of the environmental factors on the accumulation of phytochemicals and antioxidant capacity in the ivy leaves (Hedera helix L.). Nat Prod Res. 2022 Feb;36(4):1014-1019. doi: 10.1080/14786419.2020.1843029. Epub 2020 Nov 4. PMID: 33146030.

Abstract. This study aimed at evaluating the impact of environmental factors on the accumulation of various components in Hedera helix L. folium collected from different European countries. The obtained results of studied samples showed that the antioxidant capacities were in the range of 0.027 to 0.688 mg/g. Contents of active components varied: phenolic acids - from 0.033 up to 2.92 gallic acid equivalents mg/g, flavonoids - from 0.031 to 0.281 mg/g and hederacoside C - 13.54-109.458 mg g-1 DW. Samples from the northern countries had higher amounts of all phytochemicals in comparison to the southern ones. Among all studied parameters, the duration of sunshine, soil and climate had the most significant influence on the accumulation of components in ivy raw materials while altitude and precipitations showed none impact. Hedera helix can be considered as an excellent source of triterpene saponins, flavonoids and phenolic acids, and growing it at the right conditions may significantly enhance the quality of its raw material for medicinal purposes.

(2) Sierocinski E, Holzinger F, Chenot JF. Ivy leaf (Hedera helix) for acute upper respiratory tract infections: an updated systematic review. Eur J Clin Pharmacol. 2021 Aug;77(8):1113-1122. doi: 10.1007/s00228-021-03090-4. 

Abstract. Purpose: Acute cough due to viral upper respiratory tract infections (URTIs) and bronchitis is a common reason for patients to seek medical care. Non-antibiotic over-the-counter cough medications such as ivy leaf extract are frequently used but their efficacy is uncertain. Our purpose was to update our previous systematic review and evaluate the effectiveness and tolerability of ivy leaf in the treatment of acute URTIs in adult and pediatric populations....Conclusions: Ivy leaf preparations are safe for use in cough due to acute URTIs and bronchitis. However, effects are minimal at best and of uncertain clinical importance.