Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters: properties, uses, pros, cons, safety

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters is a chemical compound of natural origin.

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters is a blend of esters derived from polyglycerin-3 and waxy fractions from candelilla, jojoba, and rice bran. It is made through esterification/transesterification processes that tailor natural waxes for better functionality in emulsions. In formulations it mainly acts as an emulsifier and co-emulsifier in oil-in-water systems. It improves physical stability by helping reduce phase separation and storage-related instabilities. It also supports rheology, contributing to controlled viscosity and a creamier structure. Sensory-wise it can add slip and a silky finish, which is valuable in natural-leaning products. It is used in creams, lotions, cleansers, and makeup, often as a PEG-free structuring and stabilizing option. Typical use levels are low and it is frequently paired with other emulsifiers to fine-tune texture and robustness.

The name describes the structure of the molecule

• "Candelilla" refers to Candelilla wax, a plant wax obtained from plants of the Euphorbia genus, specifically Euphorbia antisyphilitica and Euphorbia cerifera.
• "Jojoba" refers to Jojoba oil, a waxy liquid obtained from the seeds of the Jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).
• "Rice Bran" refers to the oil extracted from rice bran, which is the outer layer of the rice grain.
• "Polyglyceryl-3" indicates a molecule derived from glycerin that has three glycerol functional groups.
• "Esters"  are compounds formed from the reaction between an acid and an alcohol. In this context, it indicates that the above-mentioned components have been esterified with polyglyceryl-3.

Description of raw materials used in production

• Candelilla Wax. Derived from the leaves of the Candelilla shrub native to northern Mexico and the southwestern United States.
• Jojoba. Derived from the seeds of the jojoba plant, which is native to southwestern North America.
• Rice Bran. The outer layer of the rice grain, which is removed during the milling process.
• Glycerin. A simple polyol compound often derived from vegetable oils or animal fats.
• Acid catalyst. To catalyze the esterification reaction.

Step-by-step summary of its industrial chemical synthesis process.

• Candelilla wax is obtained by boiling the shrub's leaves and stems with water and collecting the wax that rises to the surface.
• Jojoba oil is extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant, usually using cold pressing.
• Rice bran oil is extracted from the rice bran, typically using solvent extraction or pressing.
• Polyglyceryl-3 Synthesis
• Glycerin is first reacted under specific conditions to form a polyglycerin compound, mainly a triglyceride with three glycerol units (Polyglyceryl-3).

Esterification

• The Polyglyceryl-3 compound is then reacted with the various waxes/oils in the presence of an acid catalyst. This results in the formation of ester bonds between the Polyglyceryl-3 and the fatty acids from the waxes/oils.

Purification

• The resultant esters are purified, typically using distillation or chromatography, to achieve a compound with the desired properties and purity.

For more information:   CANDELILLA

What it is for and where

Cosmetics

Surfactant - Emulsifying agent. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable and are used to soothe or soften the skin and emulsify, so they need a specific, stabilising ingredient. This ingredient forms a film, lowers the surface tension and makes two immiscible liquids miscible. A very important factor affecting the stability of the emulsion is the amount of the emulsifying agent. Emulsifiers have the property of reducing the oil/water or water/oil interfacial tension, improving the stability of the emulsion and also directly influencing the stability, sensory properties and surface tension of sunscreens by modulating the filmometric performance.

Emulsion stabiliser. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable. Emulsion stabilisers improve the formation and stability of single and double emulsions. as well as their shelf-life. It should be noted that in the structure-function relationship, the molar mass of the ingredient used plays an important role.

Surfactant - Cleansing agent. Cosmetic products used to cleanse the skin utilise the surface-active action that produces a lowering of the surface tension of the stratum corneum, facilitating the removal of dirt and impurities. 

Commercial Applications

Cosmetics and skincare. Used as an emulsifying agent in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help mix water-based and oil-based ingredients.

Hair products. Can be found in certain conditioners and hair treatments due to its conditioning properties.

Makeup. Used in products like foundations and lipsticks for its ability to form creamy textures.