PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier composed of methyl D-glucopyranoside and tri-oleate esters. It is characterized by a high average molar ratio of ethylene oxide (120 mol EO), which enhances its solubility and emulsifying properties. This compound is widely used in cosmetics and personal care products for its ability to stabilize emulsions, improve texture, and provide a soft, smooth feel on the skin.
Chemical Composition and Structure
The chemical composition of PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate includes:
- Poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl): A polymer formed from the polymerization of ethylene oxide, contributing to the hydrophilic part of the molecule.
- Methyl D-Glucopyranoside: A sugar derivative that enhances the skin-conditioning properties of the emulsifier.
- Tris[(Z)-9-octadecenoate]: Three ester groups derived from oleic acid, which provide emollient properties and improve the feel of formulations.
Structurally, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate features a large hydrophilic portion (from the polyethylene glycol) and hydrophobic fatty acid chains (from the oleate), allowing it to effectively stabilize oil-in-water emulsions.
Physical Properties
Appearance: Typically a clear to slightly cloudy liquid or cream.
Solubility: Soluble in water and oils; well-compatible with various cosmetic ingredients.
pH: Generally neutral to slightly acidic, depending on the formulation.
Odor: Mild or odorless.
Stability: Stable under normal storage conditions; should be protected from extreme temperatures.
Production Process
Synthesis: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate is synthesized through the reaction of methyl D-glucopyranoside with oleic acid, followed by the addition of ethylene oxide in a controlled environment.
Purification: The resulting product is purified to remove unreacted materials and impurities, ensuring a high-quality emulsifier.
Formulation: The purified PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate is incorporated into various cosmetic products to enhance their texture and stability.
Applications
Medical: Occasionally used in pharmaceutical formulations as an emulsifying agent.
Cosmetics: Commonly found in creams, lotions, hair conditioners, and makeup products for its emulsifying and skin-conditioning properties.
INCI Functions:
Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.
Surfactant - Cleansing agent. Cosmetic products used to cleanse the skin utilise the surface-active action that produces a lowering of the surface tension of the stratum corneum, facilitating the removal of dirt and impurities.
Viscosity Enhancing Agent - aqueous. Since viscosity is important for increasing the chemical and physical stability of the product, Viscosity Enhancing Agent acqueous is an important dosage factor in gels, suspensions, emulsions, solutions. Increasing viscosity makes formulations less sedimentary and more homogeneously thickened.
Environmental and Safety Considerations
PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate is generally regarded as safe for use in cosmetics when applied according to recommended guidelines. It is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin. Responsible sourcing and formulation practices are essential to ensure that the ingredient is free from harmful contaminants and produced sustainably.