PEG-12 dimethicone/PPG-20 crosspolymer: properties, uses, pros, cons, safety, alternatives

PEG-12 dimethicone/PPG-20 crosspolymer is a crosslinked silicone polymer (a PEG/PPG “hybrid” silicone elastomer). It is designed to build texture, improve slip and sensory feel, and act as a rheology modifier, primarily in silicone/anhydrous or hybrid systems, depending on the commercial grade.

PEG-12 dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer is a chemical compound, silicone elastomer with characteristics of high heat resistance and elasticity adaptable to both high and low temperatures, consisting of crosslinked dimethicone copolymers with a bifunctional agent. It is produced by hydroxylation by adding silicon hydride bonds with a catalyst, usually platinum. Cross-linked polymer containing dimethicone, bis-isobutyl, PEG-12 and PPG-20. PEG is an acronym for Polyethylene glycol. PPG is an acronym for Polypropylene glycol. The term 'eth' refers to the ethoxylation reaction with ethylene oxide after which residues of ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, chemical compounds considered carcinogenic, may remain. The degree of safety therefore depends on the degree of purity of the compound obtained. At present, no manufacturer is known to provide this information on the label.

Synonyms and nomenclature notes

• commonly used (raw material context): “hydrophilic silicone elastomer”, “silicone elastomer (PEG/PPG-modified)”

• practical note: it is often supplied as an elastomer pre-dispersed in a silicone carrier (for example caprylyl methicone); therefore, the commercial-grade INCI may also include the carrier (e.g., “Caprylyl Methicone (and) PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer”).

INCI / functions (cosmetic use)

• texturizing agent and rheology modifier (especially in non-aqueous/silicone phases)

• contributes to spreadability, a silky feel, and reduced tack perception

• supports application performance in make-up (primers, foundations) and high-sensory leave-on 

• primers and make-up: “soft focus” effect, improved glide, more uniform feel

• leave-on skincare: silky texture, reduced tack, “cushion” sensation

• anhydrous/silicone systems: gel building and structural stability over time

• hybrid systems: some more “hydrophilic” grades tolerate polar fractions better, with careful process control and phase-balance management

Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Identification data and specifications

Formulation compatibility

Performance depends mainly on: crosslink density, PEG/PPG ratio, and carrier (if present). In practice:

• silicone/anhydrous systems: highest effectiveness as a texture builder and slip enhancer; useful for gel/primer structures and for improving application and after-feel.

• systems with polar fractions: some “more hydrophilic” grades offer better compatibility with polar components; it remains essential to balance the system to avoid loss of structure or phase separation.

• process: typically requires controlled dispersion; shear and order of addition significantly affect uniformity and sensorial performance.

In formulation work, it is best handled as a structure modifier (not as a simple emollient), with stability testing focused on viscosity, syneresis, and application profile.

Use guidelines (indicative)

• use level: generally at low/medium percentages; it may increase when it is the primary structuring component (gel/primer bases).

• grade selection: distinguish between “neat” crosspolymer and blends (carrier included), as this changes mass contribution and the finished-product INCI.

• stability: validate heat/cold cycles, centrifuge (where relevant), and long-term sensorial consistency.

Quality, grades, and specifications

Recommended controls for batch-to-batch consistency:

• rheological profile (viscosity/consistency, elastic recovery) using a standardized internal method

• volatiles and residues depending on the carrier and product type (leave-on vs rinse-off)

• management of process traces typical of PEG/PPG chemistries (ethoxylation/propoxylation-related impurities) according to supplier specifications and internal quality requirements

Safety, regulatory, and environment

In cosmetics, the safety rationale for crosslinked silicone elastomers is generally built on: expected low dermal bioavailability for high-molecular-weight/crosslinked structures, and quality controls on carriers and process traces. The final safety assessment always depends on: concentration in the product, application type (leave-on/rinse-off), target population, and the overall formula profile.

From a regulatory standpoint, the material falls within the scope of cosmetic ingredients; practical use and label statements depend on the grade INCI (including any carrier) and the finished formulation.

Formulation troubleshooting

Conclusion

PEG-12 dimethicone/PPG-20 crosspolymer is a crosslinked silicone elastomer with strong formulation value for building texture and improving sensory performance in skincare and make-up. Key success factors are: selecting the right grade (neat vs blend), controlling the dispersion process, managing compatibility with polar fractions, and implementing a stability plan centered on rheology and syneresis.

Mini-glossary

• crosspolymer: a crosslinked polymer with a three-dimensional network that provides structure and elasticity.

• PEG: polyethylene glycol; segment more affine to polar phases (generally more hydrophilic).

• PPG: polypropylene glycol; segment more compatible with many organic phases (generally more lipophilic than PEG).

• carrier: the vehicle phase in which the elastomer is pre-dispersed (e.g., caprylyl methicone) to improve handling.

• syneresis: separation of a liquid phase from a network/gel (bleeding), typical of systems that are not fully balanced.

Alternative