Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate is a chemical compound, the esters mixture resulting from the reaction of 2-ethylhexyl alcohol with 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid), a synthetic emollient derived from hydroxystearic acid. It is used in cosmetics and personal care products for its moisturizing, softening, and texture-enhancing properties. This ingredient is particularly valued for its lightness, quick absorption, and ability to leave the skin silky and non-greasy.

Chemical Composition and Structure
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate is an ester formed from hydroxystearic acid and 2-ethylhexanol. Its chemical structure imparts emollient properties, improving the glide and application of cosmetic products. The hydroxyl groups contribute to moisture retention and enhance the tactile experience.

Physical Properties
It appears as a clear, colorless, oily liquid with a light odor. It is soluble in oils and compatible with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients, making it ideal for moisturizing and conditioning formulations.

Production Process
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate is produced through an esterification process between hydroxystearic acid and ethylhexyl alcohol. The process ensures a stable and pure product, optimal for cosmetic applications.

Applications

• Medical: Used in dermatological products for its softening properties and to enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

• Cosmetics: Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate is commonly used in moisturizers, lotions, body oils, lip balms, and hair products. It enhances texture, softens the skin, and facilitates uniform application.

INCI Functions

Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Environmental and Safety Considerations
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate is considered safe for cosmetic use. It is biodegradable and has a reduced environmental impact, especially when produced from sustainable sources. It is well-tolerated by the skin and not known to cause irritation or sensitization. 

Molecular Formula  C₂₆H₅₂O₃

Molecular Weight  412.7 g/mol

CAS     29710-25-6

UNII    B7I80BVV5E

EC Number  249-793-7

DTXSID70865507

Nikkaji   J286.938A

Synonyms:

Octyl hydroxystearate

References__________________________________________________________________________

Capra P, Musitelli G, Perugini P. Wetting and adhesion evaluation of cosmetic ingredients and products: correlation of in vitro-in vivo contact angle measurements. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Aug;39(4):393-401. doi: 10.1111/ics.12388. Epub 2017 Mar 28. PMID: 28067963.

Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B. A., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2015). Safety assessment of alkyl esters as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 34(2_suppl), 5S-69S.