Coco-caprylate/caprate: properties, uses, pros, cons, safety

Coco-caprylate/caprate is a chemical compound, a mixture of esters resulting from the reaction of coconut alcohol fatty acids with caprylic acid ( C₈H₁₆O₂) and capric acid (C₁₀H₂₀O₂).

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a light emollient of vegetable origin, derived from the fatty acids present in coconut oil. This ingredient is commonly used in cosmetic and skincare products due to its ability to improve the texture of formulations, leaving the skin soft and silky without greasy residues. It is especially favored in creams, lotions, and body oils for its quick absorption, providing a smooth touch and a non-greasy feel.

Chemical Composition and Structure
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a mixture of medium-chain fatty acid esters, primarily caprylic acid (C8) and capric acid (C10), combined with alcohols derived from coconut oil. Its chemical structure is characterized by a relatively short hydrocarbon chain, giving it low viscosity and high compatibility with the skin.

• Coco comes from the coconut and indicates that the source of this ingredient is coconut oil. 
• 'Caprylate' and 'Caprate' are esters formed by the condensation of a carboxylic acid and an alcohol. In this case, the carboxylic acids are caprylic acid and capric acid, fatty acids found in coconut oil. The alcohol is probably a form of glycerol.

Production Process

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is obtained through an esterification process, in which caprylic and capric fatty acids, derived from coconut oil, are combined with fatty alcohols. This process produces light, non-greasy esters that are ideal for use in cosmetic formulations. The esterification process ensures that the ingredient maintains its stability and effectiveness in providing a smooth and lightweight texture in skincare products. 

• Extraction of coconut oil: The first step involves extracting the oil from the coconut. Typically, this is done by squeezing the pulp of the coconut to extract the oil.
• Hydrolysis of the coconut oil: The coconut oil is hydrolysed, which involves breaking down the triglycerides in the oil into their component fatty acids and glycerol.
• Esterification: The fatty acids (caprylic acid and capric acid) are reacted with an alcohol in a process called esterification to form the caprylate and caprate esters.
• Purification: The resulting product is purified to remove any unreacted materials and by-products.

It appears as a light, colourless to yellow transparent oil or as a fine white powder.

What it is used for and where

Cosmetics

It is used in cosmetic products, mainly in hand and face creams. and its function is to emollient, soften the skin and leave it dry. It is therefore a rather light emollient with excellent spreadability and a substitute for silicone oil.

• Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment by restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants.
• Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss.  Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Safety

As with all chemical compounds, there may be cases of allergy or intolerance.

Health and Safety Considerations

Safety in Use
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products. It is well tolerated by the skin and rarely causes irritation or allergic reactions. Major regulatory authorities, such as the European Union and the FDA, allow its use in cosmetics at standard concentrations.

Allergic Reactions
Allergic reactions to Coco-Caprylate/Caprate are very rare due to its natural origin and high skin tolerance. It is suitable for use on sensitive skin.

Toxicity and Carcinogenicity
 It has been extensively tested and is considered safe for long-term cosmetic use.

Environmental Considerations
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is biodegradable and considered environmentally friendly, especially when produced from renewable plant-based sources like coconut oil. It is an eco-friendly alternative to mineral oils or petroleum-derived ingredients.

Regulatory Status
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is approved for use in cosmetics by major regulatory authorities, including the European Union and the FDA in the United States. It is commonly used in a wide range of skincare and haircare formulations.

Typical optimal commercial product characteristics Coco-caprylate/caprate liquid

• Molecular Formula   C₄₂H₈₄O₄  
• Molecular Weight  653.13 g/mol 
• CAS  95912-86-0
• UNII    8D9H4QU99H
• EC Number   306-082-7
• DSSTox Substance ID  
• IUPAC  dodecyl decanoate;dodecyl octanoate
• InChI=1S/C22H44O2.C20H40O2/c1-3-5-7-9-11-12-13-15-17-19-21-24-22(23)20-18-16-14-10-8-6-4-2;1-3-5-7-9-10-11-12-13-15-17-19-22-20(21)18-16-14-8-6-4-2/h3-21H2,1-2H3;3-19H2,1-2H3 
• InChl Key      XJFGDLJQUJQUEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N
• SMILES   CCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCC.CCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCC
• MDL number 

Synonyms :

• Fatty acids, C8-10, C12-18-alkyl esters
• dodecyl decanoate;dodecyl octanoate

References__________________________________________________________________________

BEKTAŞ, Ç., & KAFADAR, B. (2020). Sensory mapping for common special esters in cream products. The Online Journal of Science and Technology-October, 10(4).

Abstract. Abstract: Emollients are essential ingredients in all types of personal care products and crucial especially for skin care category. The basic building blocks of most emollients are long chain hydrocarbons, often combined with alcohols and acids in the form of esters. Esters have been increasingly used in cosmetic formulations over the past few years in a wide variety of applications for their sensorial and emollient properties. The majority of esters are either derived synthetically from petroleum or from natural triglycerides. The raw materials which are commonly used in FMCG like cyclomethicone, natural silicone, mineral oil, jojoba oil, lanolin oil, antimicrobial efficiany agent and preservative have their alternatives in the form of emollients which are special esters products. In this paper, common special emollients which have an ester form will be evaluated in terms of their end user sensory feelings as well as general informations about their production details

Rigano, L., & Montoli, M. (2021). Strategy for the development of a new lipstick formula. Cosmetics, 8(4), 105.

Abstract. The strategy to adopt for the development of a new lipstick formula requires, as a first step, the definition of the most important characteristics of a modern product. Successively, the identification of the key properties of any innovative ingredient is necessary. Then, a comprehension of the key parameters in the establishment of a stable equilibrium among the different formula components in the solid state is important. Moreover, it is necessary to study the interactions among the new ingredients and the other structural components in the formula. Finally, an evaluation of the sensory properties of the different final formulae for fine-tuning of practical performances needs to be carefully carried out. In this study, a systematic formulation approach tried to obtain a new lipstick formula using a new vegetal-derived emollient *(INCLUDING COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE, HYDROGENATED OLIVE OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES) with sensorial properties similar to some types of silicones. Some application trials of the new raw material were carried out. The following aspects of this ingredient were investigated: (1) Compatibility and thickening with waxes, (2) dispersion power of pigments, and (3) influence on sensory characteristics of the formulated lipstick. This new emollient has been shown to improve some aspects of a lipstick formula, in particular shine, homogeneity, and covering effect. The optimization of the formula, in order to increase the sensation of softness on the lips, is described. 

Gavinet, B., Sigurani, S., Garcia, C., & Roso, A. (2024). Alternatives to Conventional Topical Dosage Forms for Targeted Skin Penetration of Diclofenac Sodium. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 25(13), 7432.

Abstract. Skin penetration of an active pharmaceutical ingredient is key to developing topical drugs. This penetration can be adjusted for greater efficacy and/or safety through the selection of dosage form. Two emerging dosage forms, cream–gel and gel-in-oil emulsion, were tested for their ability to deliver diclofenac into the skin, with the target of maximising skin retention while limiting systemic exposure. Prototypes with varying amounts of solvents and emollients were formulated and evaluated by in vitro penetration testing on human skin. Cream–gel formulas showed better skin penetration than the emulgel benchmark drug even without added solvent, while gel-in-oil emulsions resulted in reduced diffusion of the active into the receptor fluid. Adding propylene glycol and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether as penetration enhancers resulted in different diclofenac penetration profiles depending on the dosage form and whether they were added to the disperse or continuous phase. Rheological characterisation of the prototypes revealed similar profiles of cream–gel and emulgel benchmark, whereas gel-in-oil emulsion demonstrated flow characteristics suitable for massaging product into the skin. This study underlined the potential of cream–gel and gel-in-oil emulsions for adjusting active penetration into the skin, broadening the range of choices available to topical formulation scientists.

Khan, W., & Stone, N. (2022). Facial allergic contact dermatitis caused by caprylic/capric triglyceride in a cosmetic cream. Contact Dermatitis (01051873), 86(4).