Description

Morinda Citrifolia Callus, also known as noni callus, is a plant extract derived from the cell cultures of Morinda citrifolia. This ingredient is valued for its regenerative and antioxidant properties and is used in skin and hair care products for its potential to improve elasticity and hydration.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Chemical Composition: Morinda Citrifolia Callus contains various bioactive compounds, including polyphenols, flavonoids, organic acids, and vitamins. These compounds contribute to the callus’s antioxidant and regenerative properties.
Structure: The plant callus is obtained through the cultivation of Morinda citrifolia cells under controlled conditions, creating a cell matrix that retains the chemical and structural characteristics of the original plant.

Physical Properties

Appearance: Typically presented as a liquid extract or concentrate, with coloration ranging from light yellow to dark brown.
Solubility: Soluble in water and in solvents used in skin and hair care formulations.
pH: Stabilized to be compatible with the pH of skin and hair, usually between 4.5 and 7.

Production Process

Cultivation of Callus: Cells of Morinda citrifolia are grown in a laboratory under controlled conditions to develop the plant callus.
Extraction: The callus is extracted using methods that preserve its bioactive compounds.
Purification: The extract is purified to ensure it is free from contaminants and to maintain the quality of the final product.
Formulation: Incorporated into skin and hair care products at varying concentrations depending on the formulation and desired effect.

Applications

Medical: Not commonly used in medical applications.
Cosmetic: Used in skin and hair care products to improve elasticity, hydrate, and provide antioxidant benefits. Found in creams, serums, and masks.
Food: Not used in food products.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Generally regarded as safe for topical application. However, like all extracts, it should be used in accordance with established guidelines to avoid potential allergic reactions or skin irritations. People with sensitive skin or allergies should exercise caution. It is important to ensure that the extract is sustainably sourced and free from harmful chemicals.

INCI Functions:


Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Humectant. Hygroscopic compound used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: horny, the most superficial, granular, spinous, shiny, and basal. Humectants have the ability to retain the water they attract from the air in the stratum corneum and have the function of moisturising the skin. They are best used before emollients, which are oil-based.

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
Synonyms:

CAS: 84929-68-0 EC number 284-551-4