REVIEW
Description

admin (19653 pt) • 2022-Dec-18 11:00
Lactobacillus/Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract Ferment Filtrate is a fermented extract combining Calendula officinalis (Calendula) flower extract with Lactobacillus bacteria. This biotechnological process involves fermenting the flower extract with Lactobacillus, resulting in a filtrate that contains beneficial metabolites and enzymes produced during fermentation. This ingredient is used in cosmetics and skincare for its potential skin benefits.
Chemical Composition and Structure:
Key Components: The filtrate contains a blend of metabolites, peptides, enzymes, and other bioactive compounds generated during the fermentation process. These components include lactic acid, polysaccharides, and amino acids, which contribute to its skin-conditioning properties.
Structure: The ferment filtrate consists of smaller molecules and bioactive compounds resulting from the enzymatic action of Lactobacillus on the Calendula flower extract.
Physical Properties:
Appearance: Typically appears as a clear to light yellow liquid.
Odor: May have a mild, slightly fermented scent.
Solubility: Soluble in water, making it suitable for aqueous formulations.
Production Process:
Extraction: Calendula flowers are initially extracted to obtain the flower extract.
Fermentation: The Calendula extract is then fermented with Lactobacillus bacteria. During fermentation, Lactobacillus metabolizes the components of the extract, producing beneficial compounds.
Filtration: The fermented mixture is filtered to remove solid residues, resulting in a clear filtrate rich in fermented metabolites and enzymes.
Formulation: The filtrate is incorporated into cosmetic and skincare products, such as serums, creams, and masks.
Applications:
Cosmetics: Used in products for its skin-conditioning, hydrating, and soothing properties. The fermentation process enhances the extract’s efficacy by breaking down compounds into forms more easily absorbed by the skin.
Skincare: Beneficial for products aimed at improving skin texture, hydration, and overall skin health.
Haircare: Can be included in formulations for scalp treatments and conditioning products to support scalp health and hair vitality.
Environmental and Safety Considerations:
Environmental Impact: The production process should adhere to sustainable practices, including eco-friendly extraction methods and responsible waste management.
Safety: Generally regarded as safe for topical application. However, as with all fermented extracts, it should be used in accordance with established guidelines to prevent potential allergic reactions or skin irritations. Safety assessments are recommended for new formulations or high concentrations.
INCI Functions:
Antioxidant agent. Ingredient that counteracts oxidative stress and prevents cell damage. Free radicals, pathological inflammatory processes, reactive nitrogen species and reactive oxygen species are responsible for the ageing process and many diseases caused by oxidation.
Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.
Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
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