Description

Helianthus Annuus Oleosomes are microencapsulated oil droplets derived from sunflower seeds (Helianthus annuus). These oleosomes are valued for their ability to deliver oil-soluble active ingredients effectively. They are used in cosmetics to enhance skin hydration, provide sustained release of nutrients, and improve product stability.

Chemical Composition and Structure:
Helianthus Annuus Oleosomes contain:

Triglycerides: The primary components, consisting of fatty acids esterified with glycerol.
Phospholipids: These lipids form the outer membrane of oleosomes, contributing to their stability and release properties.
Vitamin E: Often present, offering antioxidant benefits.

The chemical structure of oleosomes includes a lipid core surrounded by a phospholipid monolayer, which helps in encapsulating and protecting active ingredients.

Physical Properties:

Appearance: Oleosomes appear as microencapsulated droplets, typically in a white to off-white color.
Solubility: They are insoluble in water but soluble in oils and organic solvents.
Odor: Generally has a mild, neutral odor.

Production Process:

Extraction: Oil is extracted from sunflower seeds.
Microencapsulation: The oil is encapsulated in oleosomes through a process that involves emulsification and the formation of a phospholipid layer around the oil droplets.
Purification: The encapsulated oleosomes are purified to ensure product quality and stability.
Formulation: The purified oleosomes are incorporated into cosmetic and skincare products for enhanced delivery of active ingredients.

Applications:

Cosmetics: Used in various skin and hair care products, such as creams, lotions, and serums, to provide controlled release of nutrients, enhance moisturization, and improve the stability of the formulation.
Pharmaceuticals: Sometimes included in topical treatments for improved delivery of active compounds.

Environmental and Safety Considerations:

Environmental Impact: The production of oleosomes from sunflower seeds generally has a moderate environmental impact. Sustainable practices in agriculture can help mitigate ecological effects.
Safety: Generally regarded as safe for topical application. However, as with all cosmetic ingredients, they should be used in accordance with established guidelines to avoid potential allergic reactions or skin irritations. Safety assessments are required for new formulations or high concentrations.

INCI Functions:


Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Emulsion stabiliser. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable. Emulsion stabilisers improve the formation and stability of single and double emulsions. as well as their shelf-life. It should be noted that in the structure-function relationship, the molar mass of the ingredient used plays an important role.

Skin conditioning agent - Humectant. Humectants are hygroscopic substances used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up the human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: corneum, the most superficial, lucidum, granulosum, spinosum and basale. Humectants have the ability to retain in the stratum corneum the water they attract from the air and have the function of moisturising the skin. It is better to use them before emollients that are oil-based.
Synonyms:

CAS: 84776-03-4 / 8001-21-6 EC number 232-273-9