REVIEW
Description

admin (19653 pt) • 2022-Dec-18 11:00
Sambucus nigra extract is derived from the flowers, berries, or roots of the elderberry plant (Sambucus nigra), a member of the Adoxaceae family. This extract is known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and soothing properties and is widely used in cosmetics for its potential benefits in skin health and therapeutic effects.
Chemical Composition and Structure
Sambucus nigra extract contains a range of bioactive compounds, including:
Flavonoids: Such as quercetin and rutin, recognized for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Polyphenols: Compounds with strong antioxidant effects that help protect the skin from free radical damage.
Vitamin C: An antioxidant that supports skin protection and collagen production.
Organic Acids: Such as citric and malic acid, which may offer mild exfoliating effects.
Saponins: Compounds that can have soothing and anti-inflammatory effects.
Physical Properties
Sambucus nigra extract typically exhibits the following physical properties:
Color: Ranges from light yellow to dark brown, depending on the extraction method and the plant part used.
Odor: Characterized by a distinctive, floral, and slightly fruity scent.
Solubility: Soluble in water and alcoholic solvents, making it compatible with various cosmetic formulations.
Production Process
The production process of Sambucus nigra extract involves:
Harvesting: Collecting the flowers, berries, or roots of Sambucus nigra, depending on the intended use.
Extraction: The plant material is subjected to extraction with suitable solvents (water, alcohol, or a combination) to obtain a concentrated extract.
Filtration and Concentration: The extract is filtered to remove solid particles and, if needed, concentrated to increase the concentration of active compounds.
Standardization: The extract may be standardized to ensure consistent levels of bioactive compounds.
Applications
Sambucus nigra extract is used in:
Cosmetics: Including serums, creams, and lotions for its moisturizing, antioxidant, and soothing properties.
Skin Care Products: Found in masks and facial treatments to improve skin elasticity and reduce inflammation.
Hair Care Products: Used in shampoos and conditioners to enhance hair softness and scalp nourishment.
Safety
Sambucus nigra extract is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used as directed. It is important to follow recommended concentrations and application guidelines to avoid potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. Individuals with allergies to plants in the Adoxaceae family should exercise caution.
Environmental and Safety Considerations
The production of Sambucus nigra extract should follow sustainable and environmentally friendly practices. The harvesting of plant materials and the extraction process should minimize environmental impact. Quality control measures are essential to ensure the extract is safe, effective, and free from contaminants.
INCI
Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
Synonyms:
CAS: 84603-58-7 EC number 283-259-4