Description

Helichrysum angustifolium Cera is a waxy substance obtained from the Helichrysum angustifolium plant, also known as narrow-leaved everlasting. Native to the Mediterranean region, this wax is utilized primarily in cosmetic and skincare products due to its emollient and stabilizing properties. It enhances the texture of products and offers additional skin benefits.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Helichrysum angustifolium wax consists of several key chemical components:

Wax Esters: These include esters of long-chain fatty acids and alcohols, which give the wax its solidifying and stabilizing properties. Esters are compounds formed from an acid and an alcohol.
Hydrocarbons: Such as aliphatic hydrocarbons, which contribute to the wax's occlusive properties. Hydrocarbons can have linear or branched carbon chains.
Fatty Alcohols: Like cetyl alcohol, which helps provide texture and stability to the wax. Fatty alcohols have long carbon chains with hydroxyl groups.
Fatty Acids: Including acids like palmitic acid and stearic acid, which are involved in the formation of the wax. Fatty acids have long carbon chains with carboxyl groups.

The chemical structures of these components include long carbon chains and functional groups essential for the wax's physical properties.

Physical Properties

Helichrysum angustifolium wax typically appears as a solid, waxy substance, ranging in color from white to slightly yellow. It has a dense, creamy consistency and melts at relatively high temperatures. The wax is insoluble in water but soluble in oils and organic solvents.

Production Process

The production of Helichrysum angustifolium wax involves:

Harvesting: Parts of the Helichrysum angustifolium plant, such as flowers and leaves, are collected, usually during peak blooming to ensure high quality.
Extraction: The wax is extracted from the plant material using methods like hot extraction or solvent extraction. The wax is separated from the plant extract through filtration and subsequent solidification.
Purification: The extracted wax may be further purified to remove impurities and enhance its quality.
Formulation: The purified wax is then used as an ingredient in cosmetic formulations, where it adds stability and improves product texture.

Applications

Helichrysum angustifolium wax is used in various cosmetic and skincare applications:

Cosmetics: It is used as an ingredient to enhance the texture and stability of products such as creams, lotions, and balms. The wax contributes to a more uniform texture and extends the product's shelf life.
Skincare: Incorporated into skincare products for its emollient and occlusive properties, which help retain moisture and improve the skin's appearance.
Personal Care Products: Added to products like lip balms and deodorants for its ability to solidify and stabilize formulations.

Safety

Helichrysum angustifolium wax is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used as directed. However, as with any ingredient, it is advisable to check for skin compatibility and follow usage guidelines.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

The production of Helichrysum angustifolium wax should follow sustainable practices to minimize environmental impact and support the conservation of plant resources. Responsible extraction and purification methods are essential to reduce waste and environmental footprint. The final product should undergo quality control to ensure safety, efficacy, and environmental responsibility.

INCI


Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.
Synonyms:

CAS: 90045-56-0 EC number 289-918-2