Description

Helichrysum italicum callus extracellular vesicles (EVs) are nanoscale vesicles derived from the callus tissue of the Helichrysum italicum plant, also known as Italian everlasting or immortelle. Callus tissue is undifferentiated plant tissue that can be cultured in vitro to produce bioactive compounds. Extracellular vesicles are membrane-bound particles that are secreted by cells and can carry a variety of biomolecules, including proteins, lipids, and RNAs. These vesicles are utilized in cosmetics and skincare for their potential regenerative, anti-inflammatory, and skin-rejuvenating properties.

Chemical Composition and Structure

The chemical composition of Helichrysum italicum callus extracellular vesicles includes:

Proteins: Enzymes and signaling proteins that may contribute to cellular regeneration and repair. These proteins are typically globular or fibrous in structure.
Lipids: Various types of lipids, including phospholipids and glycolipids, which are integral to the vesicle membrane and can have moisturizing and barrier-repairing properties. Lipid structures include fatty acid chains and glycerol backbones.
Nucleic Acids: RNA molecules, including microRNAs and messenger RNAs, which can influence gene expression and cellular processes. These nucleic acids have complex structures involving ribose sugars, phosphate groups, and nitrogenous bases.
Metabolites: Secondary metabolites and antioxidants that may contribute to the vesicles' beneficial effects on the skin. These include compounds with diverse chemical structures depending on their roles.

The structures of these components are crucial for their biological activities and their interaction with skin cells.

Physical Properties

Helichrysum italicum callus extracellular vesicles are generally small, ranging from 30 to 150 nanometers in diameter. They are typically spherical and have a lipid bilayer membrane. The vesicles are usually opaque or slightly translucent in suspension and can be incorporated into aqueous formulations such as serums and creams. They have a low viscosity and density, similar to other colloidal solutions.

Production Process

The production process for Helichrysum italicum callus extracellular vesicles involves:

Cultivation: Helichrysum italicum callus tissue is grown in vitro under controlled conditions to produce extracellular vesicles. The callus is maintained in a nutrient-rich medium to encourage vesicle secretion.
Isolation: Extracellular vesicles are isolated from the culture medium using techniques such as ultracentrifugation, filtration, or chromatography. This step concentrates the vesicles and removes other cellular debris.
Characterization: The isolated vesicles are characterized for size, concentration, and composition using techniques like nanoparticle tracking analysis (NTA) and transmission electron microscopy (TEM).
Formulation: The vesicles are incorporated into cosmetic formulations, such as serums, creams, and masks, where their regenerative and skin-rejuvenating properties can be utilized.

Applications

Helichrysum italicum callus extracellular vesicles are used in various applications:

Cosmetics: Incorporated into skincare products for their potential regenerative, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing effects. They are used in formulations designed to improve skin texture, reduce signs of aging, and enhance overall skin health.
Skincare: Added to serums, creams, and masks to provide targeted benefits such as improving skin elasticity, reducing fine lines, and promoting a more youthful appearance.
Personal Care Products: Utilized in products intended for sensitive or mature skin to support cellular repair and rejuvenation.

Safety

This ingredient is generally regarded as safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used as directed. Individuals with sensitive skin or allergies to plant-derived ingredients should exercise caution.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Helichrysum italicum callus extracellular vesicles are considered safe when used appropriately. Sustainable practices should be followed in the cultivation of callus tissue to avoid overexploitation and ensure environmental responsibility. The production process should minimize waste and environmental impact, and the final product must undergo thorough quality control to ensure safety and efficacy.

INCI


Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Skin protectant. It creates a protective barrier on the skin to defend it from harmful substances, irritants, allergens, pathogens that can cause various inflammatory conditions. These products can also improve the natural skin barrier and in most cases more than one is needed to achieve an effective result.

Skin conditioning agent - Humectant. Humectants are hygroscopic substances used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up the human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: corneum, the most superficial, lucidum, granulosum, spinosum and basale. Humectants have the ability to retain in the stratum corneum the water they attract from the air and have the function of moisturising the skin. It is better to use them before emollients that are oil-based.

Skin conditioning agent - Miscellaneous. This ingredient has the task of modifying and improving the condition of the skin when it is damaged or dry, reducing flaking and restoring its elasticity.
Synonyms:

CAS: 90045-56-0 EC number 289-918-2