Description

Helichrysum italicum flower/leaf/stem water, also known as Helichrysum hydrosol or floral water, is a byproduct of the steam distillation process used to extract essential oil from the flowers, leaves, and stems of the Helichrysum italicum plant, commonly known as Italian everlasting or immortelle. This hydrosol retains many of the plant’s beneficial properties in a more diluted form and is used in various cosmetic and skincare applications for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating effects.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Helichrysum italicum flower/leaf/stem water contains a range of bioactive compounds, although at lower concentrations compared to the essential oil:

Flavonoids: Includes compounds such as quercetin and luteolin, providing antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. These compounds have aromatic rings and hydroxyl groups in their molecular structures.
Terpenes: Contains terpenes like alpha-pinene and beta-caryophyllene, which contribute to the hydrosol’s subtle aroma and offer calming and anti-inflammatory effects. Terpenes have cyclic structures.
Phenolic Compounds: Includes phenolic acids that contribute to the hydrosol’s antioxidant properties and help protect the skin from oxidative stress.
Volatile Oils: Trace amounts of essential oil components present in the hydrosol contribute to its fragrance and therapeutic properties.

The molecular structures of these compounds include aromatic rings, hydrocarbon chains, and phenolic structures, which are essential for their biological effects.

Physical Properties

Helichrysum italicum flower/leaf/stem water is a clear to slightly yellow liquid with a delicate herbal fragrance. It is commonly used as a facial toner, mist, or in various skincare formulations. The hydrosol is water-soluble and can be easily incorporated into aqueous formulations. It typically has a low viscosity and density.

Production Process

The production process for Helichrysum italicum flower/leaf/stem water involves the following steps:

Harvesting: The flowers, leaves, and stems of Helichrysum italicum are collected when they are at their peak to ensure high concentrations of beneficial compounds.
Distillation: The plant material is subjected to steam distillation. During this process, steam passes through the plant parts, causing the essential oils and water-soluble compounds to evaporate. The steam is then condensed, and the resulting liquid is collected.
Separation: The condensed liquid is separated into essential oil and hydrosol. The hydrosol is the aqueous byproduct that contains lower concentrations of the essential oil’s active components.
Formulation: The hydrosol is used directly or incorporated into cosmetic products such as toners, mists, and moisturizers, where its soothing and hydrating properties are beneficial.

Applications

Helichrysum italicum flower/leaf/stem water is utilized in various applications:

Cosmetics: Used as a facial toner, mist, or in creams and lotions for its hydrating, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties.
Skincare: Added to products designed to calm and hydrate the skin, reduce redness, and improve overall skin appearance.
Personal Care Products: Incorporated into formulations for sensitive skin to provide a gentle and refreshing effect.

Safety

This ingredient is generally regarded as safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used as directed. Individuals with sensitive skin or allergies to plants should exercise caution.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Helichrysum italicum flower/leaf/stem water is considered safe when used appropriately. Sustainable harvesting practices should be followed to avoid overexploitation and protect natural habitats. The distillation process should be conducted responsibly to minimize environmental impact, and the final product must undergo rigorous quality control to ensure safety and efficacy.

INCI


Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
Synonyms:

CAS: 90045-56-0 EC number 289-918-2