Description

Helichrysum italicum flower water, also known as Helichrysum hydrosol or floral water, is a byproduct of the steam distillation process used to extract essential oil from the flowers of the Helichrysum italicum plant, commonly known as Italian everlasting or immortelle. This water retains many of the plant's beneficial properties and is used in various cosmetic and skincare formulations. It is known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating effects.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Helichrysum italicum flower water contains a variety of bioactive components, although in lower concentrations compared to the essential oil:

Flavonoids: Includes compounds such as quercetin and luteolin, which provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. These compounds have aromatic rings and hydroxyl groups in their molecular structure.
Terpenes: Contains terpenes such as alpha-pinene and beta-caryophyllene, which contribute to the extract's subtle aroma and provide anti-inflammatory and calming effects. Terpenes have cyclic structures.
Phenolic Compounds: Includes phenolic acids that contribute to the water’s antioxidant properties and help protect the skin from oxidative stress.
Volatile Oils: Trace amounts of essential oil components present in the flower water contribute to its fragrance and therapeutic properties.

The molecular structures of these compounds include aromatic rings, hydrocarbon chains, and phenolic structures, which are essential for their biological effects.

Physical Properties

Helichrysum italicum flower water is a clear to slightly yellow liquid with a subtle, pleasant herbal fragrance. It is typically used as a toner, facial mist, or ingredient in various skincare products. The water is soluble in water and can be easily incorporated into aqueous formulations. It is generally non-viscous and has a low density.

Production Process

The production process for Helichrysum italicum flower water involves the following steps:

Harvesting: The flowers of Helichrysum italicum are collected when they are in full bloom to maximize the concentration of beneficial compounds.
Distillation: The flowers are subjected to steam distillation. During this process, steam is passed through the plant material, causing the essential oils and water-soluble compounds to evaporate. The steam is then condensed, and the resulting liquid is collected.
Separation: The condensed liquid is separated into essential oil and flower water. Flower water, or hydrosol, is the aqueous byproduct that contains lower concentrations of the essential oil’s active components.
Formulation: The flower water is then used in various cosmetic products, including toners, mists, and moisturizers, or incorporated into formulations where its soothing and hydrating properties are beneficial.

Applications

Helichrysum italicum flower water is used in various applications:

Cosmetics: Commonly used as a facial toner, facial mist, or in creams and lotions for its hydrating, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties.
Skincare: Added to products designed to calm and hydrate the skin, reduce redness, and enhance overall skin appearance.
Personal Care Products: Used in formulations for sensitive skin to provide a gentle and refreshing effect.

Safety

This ingredient is generally regarded as safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used as directed. Individuals with sensitive skin or allergies to plants should exercise caution.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Helichrysum italicum flower water is considered safe when used appropriately. Sustainable harvesting of Helichrysum italicum flowers should be practiced to avoid overexploitation and to protect natural habitats. The distillation process should be conducted responsibly to minimize environmental impact, and the final product must undergo quality control to ensure safety and efficacy.

INCI


Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
Synonyms:

CAS: 90045-56-0 EC number 289-918-2