Description

is derived from the phytoplacenta of the Helichrysum italicum plant, also known as Italian everlasting or immortelle. This extract is obtained from the plant's reproductive structures and is valued for its high concentration of bioactive compounds. The extract is used primarily in high-end skincare and cosmetic products for its regenerative, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Helichrysum italicum phytoplacenta extract contains several key bioactive compounds:

Flavonoids: Includes compounds such as quercetin and luteolin, which provide potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. These compounds feature aromatic rings and hydroxyl groups in their molecular structure.
Terpenes: Contains terpenes like alpha-pinene and beta-caryophyllene, contributing to the extract’s aroma and offering anti-inflammatory and soothing benefits. Terpenes have complex cyclic structures.
Sesquiterpenes: Features compounds such as italicine and helichrysin, which are known for their anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. These compounds include complex cyclic structures.
Polypeptides and Amino Acids: Derived from the phytoplacenta, these compounds support skin regeneration and repair by promoting collagen synthesis and cellular renewal.

The molecular structures of these compounds include aromatic rings, hydrocarbon chains, and peptide bonds, contributing to their biological activities.

Physical Properties

Helichrysum italicum phytoplacenta extract typically appears as a viscous, gel-like or liquid substance, often with a light yellow to amber color. It has a subtle, herbal aroma characteristic of the Helichrysum plant. The extract is soluble in water and compatible with various cosmetic formulations. Its viscosity can vary depending on the concentration and formulation.

Production Process

The production process for Helichrysum italicum phytoplacenta extract involves several key steps:

Harvesting: The plant is harvested during its peak growing period to ensure the highest concentration of bioactive compounds in the phytoplacenta.
Extraction: The phytoplacenta is carefully separated and processed using methods such as cold extraction or enzymatic hydrolysis to release the bioactive compounds. These methods preserve the integrity of the delicate phytoplacental material.
Purification: The crude extract may be purified using techniques like filtration or chromatography to isolate active ingredients and remove impurities.
Formulation: The purified extract is incorporated into cosmetic products such as serums, creams, and lotions designed to harness its regenerative and protective properties.

Applications

Helichrysum italicum phytoplacenta extract is utilized in various applications:

Cosmetics: Due to its regenerative, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, it is included in advanced skincare formulations aimed at improving skin texture, reducing signs of aging, and enhancing skin repair and protection.
Pharmaceuticals: Its therapeutic benefits make it suitable for topical treatments that support skin regeneration and repair.
Personal Care Products: Used in formulations for sensitive or damaged skin due to its soothing and healing properties.

Safety

This ingredient is generally regarded as safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used as directed. Individuals with sensitive skin or plant allergies should exercise caution.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Helichrysum italicum phytoplacenta extract is considered safe when used appropriately. Sustainable harvesting practices should be followed to prevent overexploitation of the plant and to protect natural habitats. The extraction process should minimize environmental impact, and the final product must undergo rigorous quality control to ensure its safety and efficacy.

INCI


Humectant. Hygroscopic compound used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: horny, the most superficial, granular, spinous, shiny, and basal. Humectants have the ability to retain the water they attract from the air in the stratum corneum and have the function of moisturising the skin. They are best used before emollients, which are oil-based.

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
Synonyms:

CAS: 90045-56-0 EC number 289-918-2