REVIEW
Description

admin (19653 pt) • 2022-Dec-18 11:00
Helichrysum italicum flower extract is derived from the flowers of the Helichrysum italicum plant, commonly known as Italian everlasting or immortelle. This perennial herb, native to the Mediterranean region, is renowned for its vibrant yellow flowers and its use in both traditional medicine and modern skincare. The extract is valued for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-rejuvenating properties, making it a popular ingredient in various cosmetic and personal care products.
Chemical Composition and Structure
Helichrysum italicum flower extract contains a range of bioactive compounds with beneficial effects:
Flavonoids: Key flavonoids such as quercetin and luteolin are present, known for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Terpenes: The extract includes terpenes like alpha-pinene and beta-caryophyllene, which contribute to the extract’s distinctive aroma and provide therapeutic benefits, including anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects.
Sesquiterpenes and Lactones: Compounds such as italicine and helichrysin are present, recognized for their anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. These compounds feature complex cyclic structures with significant biological activity.
Polyphenols: Various polyphenolic compounds contribute to the extract’s antioxidant activity.
The molecular structures of these compounds include aromatic rings and hydrocarbon chains, which are responsible for their biological activities.
Physical Properties
Helichrysum italicum flower extract typically appears as a viscous liquid or gel-like substance, ranging in color from light yellow to amber. It has a distinct herbal aroma that reflects the essential oils present in the flowers. The extract is soluble in oils and organic solvents but has limited solubility in water. The viscosity of the extract can vary based on concentration and formulation.
Production Process
The production process for Helichrysum italicum flower extract involves several steps:
Harvesting: Flowers of Helichrysum italicum are harvested during their peak blooming period, usually in late summer, to ensure a high concentration of active compounds.
Drying: The harvested flowers are dried under controlled conditions to preserve their bioactive compounds and prevent degradation, typically in well-ventilated areas.
Extraction: Active compounds are extracted from the dried flowers using various methods:
Steam Distillation: Commonly used to obtain essential oils from the flowers.
Solvent Extraction: Techniques such as ethanol or hexane extraction are employed to isolate soluble compounds.
Cold Pressing: Applied to obtain essential oils without the use of heat.
Purification: The crude extract may be purified using methods like column chromatography or filtration to concentrate specific compounds.
Formulation: The purified extract is incorporated into final products, including cosmetics, skincare treatments, and therapeutic formulations.
Applications
Helichrysum italicum flower extract is used in various applications:
Cosmetics: Its anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties make it a valuable ingredient in serums, creams, masks, and other skincare products designed to enhance skin texture, reduce wrinkles, and promote overall skin health.
Pharmaceuticals: The extract’s therapeutic properties are useful in topical treatments for skin conditions and minor injuries.
Aromatherapy: Essential oil derived from the flowers is used for its soothing and rejuvenating effects in diffusers, massage oils, and relaxation therapies.
Safety
This ingredient is generally regarded as safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used as directed. Individuals who are allergic to plants or have very sensitive skin should exercise caution.
Environmental and Safety Considerations
Helichrysum italicum flower extract is considered safe when used appropriately. Sustainable harvesting practices should be followed to prevent overexploitation of natural populations and protect ecosystems. Environmentally friendly extraction methods should be used to minimize ecological impact, and the final product should undergo rigorous quality control to ensure its safety and efficacy.
INCI
Perfuming. Unlike fragrance, which can also contain slightly less pleasant or characteristic odours, the term perfume indicates only very pleasant fragrances. Used for perfumes and aromatic raw materials.
Synonyms:
CAS: 90045-56-0 EC number 289-918-2