Description

Helichrysum italicum flower/stem extract is derived from the flowers and stems of the Helichrysum italicum plant, commonly known as Italian everlasting or immortelle. This perennial herb, native to the Mediterranean region, is celebrated for its vibrant yellow flowers and its use in traditional medicine and modern skincare. The extract is valued for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-rejuvenating properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and personal care products.

Chemical Composition and Structure

The chemical composition of Helichrysum italicum flower/stem extract includes a variety of bioactive compounds:

Flavonoids: Notable flavonoids such as quercetin and luteolin are present, providing strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.
Terpenes: The extract contains terpenes like alpha-pinene, beta-caryophyllene, and gamma-curcumene. These contribute to the extract’s distinctive aroma and offer therapeutic benefits, including anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties.
Sesquiterpenes and Lactones: Important compounds include italicine and helichrysin, which are known for their anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects. These compounds feature complex cyclic structures with significant biological activity.
Polyphenols: Various polyphenolic compounds contribute to the extract’s antioxidant activity.

The molecular structures of these compounds include aromatic rings and hydrocarbon chains, which are responsible for their biological activities.

Physical Properties

Helichrysum italicum flower/stem extract typically appears as a viscous liquid or gel, with colors ranging from yellow to amber. It has a distinct herbal aroma, reflecting the essential oils present in the flowers and stems. The extract is soluble in oils and organic solvents but has limited solubility in water. Its viscosity can vary depending on the concentration and formulation.

Production Process

The production of Helichrysum italicum flower/stem extract involves several stages:

Harvesting: The flowers and stems of Helichrysum italicum are harvested during their peak flowering period, usually in late summer. This timing ensures a high concentration of active compounds.
Drying: The harvested plant material is dried under controlled conditions to preserve its bioactive compounds and prevent degradation. This typically involves air-drying in a well-ventilated area.
Extraction: Active compounds are extracted from the dried plant material using various methods:
Steam Distillation: Commonly used to obtain essential oils from the flowers and stems.
Solvent Extraction: Techniques such as ethanol or hexane extraction are used to isolate soluble compounds.
Cold Pressing: Applied to obtain essential oils without heat.
Purification: The crude extract may be purified using methods like column chromatography or filtration to concentrate specific active compounds.
Formulation: The purified extract is then incorporated into final products, including cosmetics, skincare treatments, and therapeutic formulations.

Applications

Helichrysum italicum flower/stem extract is used in a variety of applications:

Cosmetics: Its anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties make it a sought-after ingredient in serums, creams, masks, and other skincare products designed to improve skin texture, reduce wrinkles, and enhance overall skin health.
Pharmaceuticals: The extract’s therapeutic properties are utilized in topical treatments for skin conditions, minor wounds, and inflammation.
Aromatherapy: The essential oil extracted from the flowers and stems is used for its soothing and rejuvenating effects in diffusers, massage oils, and relaxation therapies.

Safety

This ingredient is generally regarded as safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used as directed. Individuals who are allergic to plants or have very sensitive skin should exercise caution.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Helichrysum italicum flower/stem extract is considered safe when used appropriately. Sustainable harvesting practices should be followed to prevent overexploitation of natural populations and protect ecosystems. Environmentally friendly extraction methods should be employed to minimize ecological impact, and the final product should undergo rigorous quality control to ensure its safety and efficacy.

INCI


Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
Synonyms:

CAS: 90045-56-0 EC number 289-918-2