Description

Helichrysum italicum callus extract is derived from the callus tissue of the Helichrysum italicum plant, commonly known as Italian everlasting or immortelle. This callus tissue is cultivated in vitro using cell culture techniques. The extract is valued for its regenerative, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic formulations.

Chemical Composition and Structure

The chemical composition of Helichrysum italicum callus extract includes a variety of bioactive compounds:

Flavonoids: These include quercetin and luteolin, which are known for their strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.
Terpenes: Terpenes such as alpha-pinene and beta-caryophyllene contribute to the extract's distinctive aroma and offer therapeutic benefits, including anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects.
Sesquiterpenes and Lactones: Compounds like italicine and helichrysin are present, known for their anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. These molecules have complex cyclic structures with significant biological activity.
Alcohols and Esters: Terpene alcohols and esters enhance the extract's solubility and aromatic profile.

The callus tissue, cultivated in vitro, can have different concentrations of these compounds compared to the whole plant.

Physical Properties

Helichrysum italicum callus extract is usually available as a viscous liquid or gel-like substance, ranging in color from pale yellow to amber. It has a characteristic herbal aroma. The extract is soluble in oils and organic solvents but has limited solubility in water. The viscosity can vary based on the concentration and specific formulation of the extract.

Production Process

The production process of Helichrysum italicum callus extract involves the following steps:

Callus Cultivation: The callus tissue is grown in laboratory conditions using cell culture techniques. Plant hormones may be applied to stimulate the development of callus tissue.
Harvesting and Processing: Once the callus reaches the desired growth, it is harvested and processed to extract the bioactive compounds. This involves cell lysis and preparation for extraction.
Extraction: Active compounds are extracted using various methods:
Solvent Extraction: Methods such as ethanol or hexane extraction are used to isolate soluble compounds.
Advanced Techniques: Osmosis or ultrasound may be employed to improve extraction efficiency.
Purification: The crude extract is purified using techniques such as column chromatography or filtration to concentrate specific compounds.
Formulation: The purified extract is incorporated into cosmetic, skincare, or therapeutic products.

Applications

Helichrysum italicum callus extract is used in a range of applications:

Cosmetics: Its anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties make it a sought-after ingredient in serums, creams, masks, and other skincare products designed to improve skin elasticity, reduce wrinkles, and enhance overall skin health.
Pharmaceuticals: Its therapeutic benefits are utilized in topical treatments for skin conditions and minor wounds.
Aromatherapy: The essential oil from the callus can be used for its calming and rejuvenating effects in diffusers, massage oils, and relaxation treatments.

Safety

This ingredient is generally regarded as safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used as directed. However, individuals who are allergic to plants or have very sensitive skin should exercise caution.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Helichrysum italicum callus extract is considered safe when used appropriately. It is important to follow sustainable practices in the cultivation of callus tissue to avoid excessive resource use and minimize environmental impact. Ensuring rigorous quality control is essential to maintain the efficacy and purity of the final product.

INCI


Antimicrobial agent. This ingredient is able to suppress or inhibit the growth and replication of a broad spectrum of microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi and viruses by making the stratum corneum temporarily bactericidal and fungicidal.

Hair conditioning agent. A significant number of ingredients with specific and targeted purposes may co-exist in hair shampoo formulations: cleansers, conditioners, thickeners, matting agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, special additives. However, the indispensable ingredients are the cleansers and conditioners as they are necessary and sufficient for hair cleansing and manageability. The others act as commercial and non-essential auxiliaries such as: appearance, fragrance, colouring, etc. Hair conditioning agents have the task of increasing shine, manageability and volume, and reducing static electricity, especially after treatments such as colouring, ironing, waving, drying and brushing. They are, in practice, dispersants that may contain cationic surfactants, thickeners, emollients, polymers. The typology of hair conditioning agents includes: intensive conditioners, instant conditioners, thickening conditioners, drying conditioners. They can perform their task generally accompanied by other different ingredients.

Humectant. Hygroscopic compound used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: horny, the most superficial, granular, spinous, shiny, and basal. Humectants have the ability to retain the water they attract from the air in the stratum corneum and have the function of moisturising the skin. They are best used before emollients, which are oil-based.

Skin protectant. It creates a protective barrier on the skin to defend it from harmful substances, irritants, allergens, pathogens that can cause various inflammatory conditions. These products can also improve the natural skin barrier and in most cases more than one is needed to achieve an effective result.
Synonyms:

CAS: 90045-56-0 EC number 289-918-2