Description

Helichrysum italicum extract is obtained from the aerial parts of the Helichrysum italicum plant, also known as Italian everlasting or immortelle. This perennial herb is native to the Mediterranean region and is renowned for its rich array of bioactive compounds, which contribute to its diverse therapeutic and cosmetic benefits. The extract is prized for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and regenerative properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and wellness products.

Chemical Composition and Structure

The chemical composition of Helichrysum italicum extract includes a range of phytochemicals with various biological activities:

Flavonoids: Prominent flavonoids such as quercetin and luteolin are present, known for their strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.
Terpenes: The extract contains several terpenes, including alpha-pinene, beta-caryophyllene, and gamma-curcumene, which contribute to its distinctive aroma and offer therapeutic benefits, such as anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects.
Sesquiterpenes and Lactones: Notable sesquiterpenes and lactones, such as italicine and helichrysin, are known for their anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. These compounds feature complex cyclic structures that are biologically active.
Alcohols and Esters: Terpene alcohols and esters enhance the extract’s solubility and aromatic profile.

The molecular structures of these compounds typically include aromatic rings and hydrocarbon chains, which are responsible for their specific biological activities.

Physical Properties

Helichrysum italicum extract is commonly found as a viscous liquid or gel-like substance, with colors ranging from golden-yellow to amber. It possesses a characteristic herbal aroma, indicative of the essential oils it contains. The extract is soluble in oils and organic solvents but has limited solubility in water. Its viscosity varies depending on the concentration and formulation.

Production Process

The production of Helichrysum italicum extract involves several steps:

Harvesting: The aerial parts of Helichrysum italicum are harvested during the peak growing season, usually in late summer, when the concentration of active compounds is optimal. Harvesting is often done manually to avoid damage to the plant.
Drying: The collected plant material is dried in controlled conditions to reduce moisture and preserve the active ingredients. This is done in well-ventilated areas to prevent deterioration.
Extraction: Various extraction methods are employed, including:
Steam Distillation: Used primarily to obtain essential oils from the plant.
Solvent Extraction: Utilizes solvents like ethanol or hexane to extract soluble compounds.
Cold Pressing: Applied for extracting essential oils without the use of heat.
Purification: The crude extract may be purified using techniques such as column chromatography or filtration to concentrate specific active compounds.
Formulation: The purified extract is incorporated into final products, which may include cosmetics, personal care items, or therapeutic formulations.

Applications

Helichrysum italicum extract is used in various applications:

Cosmetics: The extract is valued for its anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It is incorporated into skincare products like serums, creams, and masks to enhance skin elasticity, reduce wrinkles, and improve overall skin health.
Pharmaceuticals: Its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties make it suitable for inclusion in topical treatments for skin conditions and minor injuries.
Aromatherapy: The essential oil derived from the extract is used for its calming and rejuvenating effects, often in diffusers, massage oils, and relaxation therapies.

Safety

This ingredient is generally regarded as safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used as directed. However, individuals who are allergic to plants or have very sensitive skin should exercise caution. It is always advisable to perform a patch test before using new products extensively to ensure compatibility with skin types.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Helichrysum italicum extract is typically safe when used appropriately, but sustainable practices are crucial in its production. Harvesting should be conducted in a way that does not deplete natural populations or damage ecosystems. Environmentally friendly extraction methods should be employed to minimize ecological impact. Rigorous quality control is essential to ensure that the final product is free from contaminants and maintains its efficacy.

INCI


Adhesive agent. It is one of the methods to improve and optimise the adhesion of the formulation on the skin.

Fragrance. It plays a very important role in the formulation of cosmetic products as it provides the possibility of enhancing, masking or adding fragrance to the final product, increasing its marketability. It is able to create a perceptible pleasant odour, masking a bad smell. The consumer always expects to find a pleasant or distinctive scent in a cosmetic product.

Soothing. Ingredient with the task of restoring moisture to the skin, helping in the healing process of irritation, inflammation and skin disorders.
Synonyms:

CAS: 90045-56-0 EC number 289-918-2