Description

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Rhizome/Root, also known as licorice root, is derived from the roots and rhizomes of the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant. This ingredient is widely used in cosmetics for its therapeutic and beneficial properties.

Chemical Composition and Structure:

Key Components:
Glycyrrhizin: A natural saponin with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and soothing properties.
Flavonoids: Such as liquiritin and isoliquiritin, which contribute to the antioxidant and brightening effects on the skin.
Phenolic Compounds: Help protect the skin from environmental damage and improve skin health.
Structure: Composed of a variety of bioactive compounds, including a mix of saponins, flavonoids, and other phytochemicals.

Physical Properties:

Appearance: Powder or solid extract, dark brown to reddish-brown in color.
Odor: Characteristic licorice aroma, slightly sweet and earthy.
Texture: Powdery when dry; becomes more viscous and dense when combined with liquids.

Production Process:

Harvesting: The roots and rhizomes of Glycyrrhiza glabra are collected and cleaned.
Drying and Grinding: The roots are dried and then ground into a fine powder.
Extraction (optional): To obtain a liquid extract, the powder can be treated with appropriate solvents to isolate the active principles.
Filtration and Packaging: The extract is filtered and packaged to preserve quality and efficacy.

Applications:

Skin Care: Used for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, effective for treating irritated and sensitive skin.
Anti-Aging: Contributes to improving skin elasticity and reducing signs of aging due to its antioxidant properties.
Toning and Brightening: Helps to even out skin tone and enhance overall radiance.

Safety and Environmental Considerations:

Safety: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Rhizome/Root is generally regarded as safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used as directed. However, individuals allergic to licorice or with very sensitive skin should be cautious.
Environmental Impact: Licorice root production should be carried out sustainably, using responsible agricultural practices and minimizing environmental impact.

INCI:


Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Moisturizing. This ingredient is responsible for preventing the evaporation of moisture from the skin and improving cellular activity. When exposed to cold or hot air currents, the skin absorbs water from its inner layer to compensate for the evaporated water. If the draught phenomenon persists, the stratum corneum is dry and, if at all, damaged.

Smoothing. The function of this component is to make the surface of the skin more even, reducing roughness and irregularities.

Soothing. Ingredient with the task of restoring moisture to the skin, helping in the healing process of irritation, inflammation and skin disorders.
Synonyms:

CAS: 68916-91-6 EC number 272-837-1