Description

Glycyrrhiza uralensis callus culture filtrate is a liquid extract obtained from the callus cultures of the Glycyrrhiza uralensis plant, also known as Chinese licorice. This filtrate is used in cosmetic formulations for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It is derived from the nutrient-rich medium in which the callus cultures are grown, capturing a broad spectrum of beneficial compounds.

Chemical Composition and Structure:

Key Components:
Glycyrrhizin: A major active compound known for its anti-inflammatory and soothing effects.
Flavonoids: Provide antioxidant effects and help neutralize free radicals.
Saponins: Offer emulsifying and foaming properties.
Licoriceidine and Licorisoflavan A: Contribute anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects.
Polysaccharides and Peptides: May be present, contributing to skin conditioning and hydration.
Structure: Glycyrrhizin is a triterpenoid saponin consisting of glycyrrhetinic acid linked to glucuronic acid.

Physical Properties:

Appearance: Typically a clear to light amber liquid.
Odor: Characteristic sweet, herbal scent.
Consistency: Liquid, with a potentially viscous texture depending on concentration.

Production Process:

Callus Culture: Callus cultures of Glycyrrhiza uralensis are grown in a controlled environment.
Filtration: After growth, the medium containing the soluble compounds is filtered to remove the solid residues.
Concentration: The filtrate may be concentrated to enhance the potency of active ingredients.
Formulation: The concentrated filtrate is incorporated into cosmetic and personal care products.

Applications:

Skincare: Used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, helping to calm irritated skin and reduce redness. It also aids in improving skin tone and texture.
Anti-Aging: Included in anti-aging formulations due to its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from oxidative stress and environmental damage.

Safety and Environmental Considerations:

Safety: Glycyrrhiza uralensis callus culture filtrate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used as directed. Individuals with sensitive skin or allergies to licorice should use this ingredient with caution.
Environmental Impact: The sustainability of callus culture production should be considered to minimize environmental impact.

INCI:


Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.
Synonyms:

CAS: 94349-91-4 EC number 305-209-3