Description

Iris florentina L., commonly known as Orris, is a plant belonging to the Iridaceae family. The rhizome of this plant is highly valued for its aromatic, astringent, and soothing properties, making it useful in various cosmetic applications, perfumes, and skincare products.

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION AND STRUCTURE

Chemically, Iris florentina contains:

Orris Essential Oil: an aromatic oil extracted from the rhizome, known for its delicate and long-lasting fragrance, primarily used in perfumery.
Tannins: astringent compounds that help to tone and purify the skin.
Starch: contributing to the soothing and thickening properties in cosmetic products.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

Appearance: the dried rhizome is pale yellow to grayish in color, often ground into powder for use in formulations.
Odor: a delicate, floral, and slightly earthy scent characteristic of Orris essential oil.
Solubility: the essential oil is soluble in alcohol and essential oils, while the rhizome powder is insoluble in water but can be dispersed in cosmetic formulations.
Density: varies depending on the form (essential oil or rhizome powder).

PRODUCTION PROCESS

Harvesting: the rhizomes of Iris florentina are harvested, typically after three years of growth, to ensure the highest concentration of active compounds.
Drying: the rhizomes are dried for several months to develop their characteristic aroma.
Preparation: the dried rhizome can be ground into powder for use in cosmetic products or distilled to extract the essential oil.
Packaging and Storage: the final product, whether in powder form or essential oil, is packaged in airtight containers and stored in a cool, dry place to maintain its quality.

APPLICATIONS

Cosmetics: used in skincare products for its astringent and toning properties.
Skin Care: included in creams, lotions, and toners to tone and purify the skin.
Perfumes: Orris essential oil is a prized ingredient in perfumery, used as a fixative and for its delicate floral fragrance.
Body Powders: rhizome powder can be used in body powders and facial products for its soothing and refreshing properties.
Aromatherapy: used in essential oils for its calming and relaxing fragrance.

ENVIRONMENTAL AND SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS

Sustainability: the cultivation of Iris florentina can be sustainable, especially when practiced with organic and environmentally friendly farming methods.
Toxicity: the rhizome and essential oil of Iris florentina are generally considered safe for use in cosmetic products and perfumes when used in appropriate concentrations.
Allergenicity: as with all plant-based ingredients and chemicals, individual reactions of intolerance or allergy cannot be excluded.

INCI


Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

Fragrance. It plays a very important role in the formulation of cosmetic products as it provides the possibility of enhancing, masking or adding fragrance to the final product, increasing its marketability. It is able to create a perceptible pleasant odour, masking a bad smell. The consumer always expects to find a pleasant or distinctive scent in a cosmetic product.

Surfactant - Foam booster. It has the effect of introducing gas bubbles into the water and affects the cleaning process by helping to spread the cleanser. Since sebum has an inhibiting effect on the bubble, more foam is produced in the second shampoo.
Synonyms:

CAS: 90045-89-9 EC number 289-954-9