Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate is a cosmetic ingredient commonly utilized as an emulsifier and skin conditioner in various skin care and makeup products. It is synthesized by the esterification of polyglycerin-3 with ricinoleic acid, resulting in the formation of 1,2,3-Propanetriol, homopolymer, 12-(R)-hydroxy-9-(Z)-octadecenoates in a 1:1 molar ratio with an average of 3 moles of glycerol. This ingredient is highly valued for its ability to stabilize water-in-oil emulsions and enhance the moisturizing properties of cosmetic formulations.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate combines the moisturizing properties of polyglycerin-3 with the unique characteristics of ricinoleic acid, a hydroxyl fatty acid derived from castor oil. This combination is effective for creating stable, water-in-oil emulsions that provide a smooth and nourishing feel to the skin.

Physical Properties

Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate typically appears as a thick, viscous liquid that is clear to pale yellow in color. It has good solubility in oils and is especially effective in formulations where a rich texture and enhanced barrier protection are desired.

Production Process

Synthesis: The synthesis involves the esterification of polyglycerin-3 with ricinoleic acid under controlled conditions to ensure effective bond formation and high-quality ester production.
Purification: After synthesis, the product undergoes various purification steps to remove any unreacted materials and by-products, ensuring purity suitable for cosmetic use.
Quality Control: Rigorous quality control tests are conducted on the final product to assess its stability, efficacy, and compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients. These tests often include viscosity measurements, stability testing under different environmental conditions, and performance evaluations in emulsion systems.

Applications

Cosmetic Products: Widely used in creams, lotions, and protective barrier creams where it serves as an effective emulsifier, helping to mix oil and water phases and enhance product consistency and skin-feel.
Skin Care: Ideal for use in products designed for dry or sensitive skin, as it helps to moisturize and form a protective barrier that maintains skin hydration.
Makeup: Used in makeup formulations to improve application properties, ensuring smooth coverage and longer wear.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate is considered safe for use in cosmetic products and is generally well-tolerated by the skin. It is non-irritating and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. As it is derived from naturally occurring fatty acids, it is seen as an environmentally responsible ingredient. Use within recommended concentrations is crucial to ensure safety and optimal effectiveness.

INCI


Surfactant - Emulsifying agent. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable and are used to soothe or soften the skin and emulsify, so they need a specific, stabilising ingredient. This ingredient forms a film, lowers the surface tension and makes two immiscible liquids miscible. A very important factor affecting the stability of the emulsion is the amount of the emulsifying agent. Emulsifiers have the property of reducing the oil/water or water/oil interfacial tension, improving the stability of the emulsion and also directly influencing the stability, sensory properties and surface tension of sunscreens by modulating the filmometric performance.
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