REVIEW
Description

admin (19653 pt) • 2022-Dec-18 11:00
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicocoate is a cosmetic ingredient extensively used as an emulsifier and skin conditioner in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products. It is produced by the diesterification of polyglycerin-3 with coconut fatty acids, resulting in a compound that effectively stabilizes emulsions and enhances the moisturizing and conditioning properties of cosmetic formulations.
Chemical Composition and Structure
This ingredient combines the emollient and hydrating properties of polyglycerin-3 with the rich fatty acid profile of coconut oil, which includes primarily lauric, myristic, palmitic, and caprylic acids. These fatty acids are known for their skin-nourishing benefits, helping to soften and smooth the skin while maintaining the integrity of cosmetic emulsions.
Physical Properties
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicocoate typically appears as a clear to slightly yellowish viscous liquid. It is oil-soluble and enhances the spreadability and absorption of cosmetic products, making it an excellent choice for oil-in-water and water-in-oil formulations where a lightweight, non-greasy feel is desired.
Production Process
Synthesis: The synthesis involves the reaction of polyglycerin-3 with coconut fatty acids to form a diester. This process is carried out under controlled conditions to ensure efficient esterification and high-quality product formation.
Purification: Following synthesis, the product undergoes purification to remove any unreacted materials and impurities, ensuring the highest purity and quality suitable for cosmetic use.
Quality Control: The final product is rigorously tested for its purity, stability, and performance in cosmetic formulations. These tests might include evaluations of emulsion stability, compatibility with other ingredients, and performance assessments in final product applications.
Applications
Cosmetic Products: Widely used in moisturizers, lotions, and creams where it acts as an effective emulsifier, helping to blend and stabilize the mixture of oil and water components, enhancing the product's texture and feel.
Skin Care: Ideal in formulations designed for dry or sensitive skin, as it helps to moisturize and condition the skin without leaving a heavy residue.
Makeup: Used in makeup products such as foundations and concealers to improve their texture, spreadability, and hydration properties, ensuring a smooth and even application.
Environmental and Safety Considerations
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicocoate is considered safe for use in cosmetic products and is generally well-tolerated by the skin. It is non-irritating and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. As it is derived from renewable resources like coconut oil, it is also viewed as an environmentally friendly ingredient. Proper usage within recommended concentrations is important to ensure safety and optimal effectiveness.
INCI
Surfactant - Emulsifying agent. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable and are used to soothe or soften the skin and emulsify, so they need a specific, stabilising ingredient. This ingredient forms a film, lowers the surface tension and makes two immiscible liquids miscible. A very important factor affecting the stability of the emulsion is the amount of the emulsifying agent. Emulsifiers have the property of reducing the oil/water or water/oil interfacial tension, improving the stability of the emulsion and also directly influencing the stability, sensory properties and surface tension of sunscreens by modulating the filmometric performance.
Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.
Synonyms:
CAS: 223706-50-1