Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate is a cosmetic ingredient extensively used as an emulsifier in various skincare and makeup products. This compound is produced by the esterification of polyglycerin-3 with polyricinoleic acid, derived from castor oil. It is particularly valued for its ability to stabilize water-in-oil emulsions and enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skin formulations.

Chemical Composition and Structure

This ingredient consists of polyglycerin-3, a polymer of glycerin known for its moisturizing properties, and polyricinoleic acid, which is a polymerized form of ricinoleic acid—a hydroxylated fatty acid obtained from castor oil. The ester formed between these two components is effective in improving the dispersion of water in oil, making it suitable for formulations that require a high level of water resistance and moisturization.

Physical Properties

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate typically appears as a viscous, amber-colored liquid. It is hydrophobic (water-repelling) and has limited solubility in water but is readily soluble in oils and fats, enhancing its utility in oil-based cosmetic formulations.

Production Process

Synthesis: The synthesis involves the esterification of polyglycerin-3 with polyricinoleic acid. This reaction is carefully controlled in terms of temperature and pH to optimize the yield and quality of the ester.
Purification: Following synthesis, the product is purified through various methods such as filtration and distillation to remove any unreacted components and impurities.
Quality Control: The final product undergoes extensive testing to ensure its purity, efficacy, and stability. Tests typically include measurements of viscosity, emulsion stability, and compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients.

Applications

Cosmetic Products: Widely used in sunscreens, moisturizing creams, and makeup products where it functions as an emulsifier to create stable, water-resistant formulations.
Skin Care: Ideal for use in water-in-oil emulsions which are designed for intensive hydration and protective barrier formation on the skin.
Makeup: Helps in formulating long-wearing, water-resistant makeup products that maintain their consistency and performance over time.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate is considered safe for use in cosmetic products and is generally well-tolerated by the skin. It is non-irritating and suitable for sensitive skin types. Since it is derived from renewable plant sources (castor oil), it is also seen as an environmentally responsible choice. As with all cosmetic ingredients, it is important to use this compound within the recommended concentrations to ensure safety and optimal performance.

INCI


Surfactant - Emulsifying agent. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable and are used to soothe or soften the skin and emulsify, so they need a specific, stabilising ingredient. This ingredient forms a film, lowers the surface tension and makes two immiscible liquids miscible. A very important factor affecting the stability of the emulsion is the amount of the emulsifying agent. Emulsifiers have the property of reducing the oil/water or water/oil interfacial tension, improving the stability of the emulsion and also directly influencing the stability, sensory properties and surface tension of sunscreens by modulating the filmometric performance.

Surfactant - Foam booster. It has the effect of introducing gas bubbles into the water and affects the cleaning process by helping to spread the cleanser. Since sebum has an inhibiting effect on the bubble, more foam is produced in the second shampoo.
Synonyms:

CAS: 29894-35-7 235783-76-3