Description

Polyglyceryl-3 Di-Hydroxystearate is a cosmetic ingredient that acts as an emulsifier and skin conditioner. It is the diester formed from hydroxystearic acid and polyglycerin-3. This ingredient is commonly used in skin care, makeup, and sunscreen products to enhance texture and stabilize emulsions.

Chemical Composition and Structure

This compound is structured as a diester linkage between hydroxystearic acid, a hydroxy acid derived from stearic acid (a common fatty acid), and polyglycerin-3, which is a polymerization product of glycerin featuring multiple glycerol units. This structure allows it to improve the stability and aesthetic properties of emulsions by aiding in water and oil phase blending.

Physical Properties

Polyglyceryl-3 Di-Hydroxystearate typically appears as a waxy solid or viscous liquid at room temperature, depending on the specific formulation and concentration. It is soluble in oils and has good dispersibility in water, which makes it effective in forming stable emulsions.

Production Process

Synthesis: The ingredient is synthesized through an esterification process where hydroxystearic acid reacts with polyglycerin-3. This reaction typically involves heat and a catalyst to form the diester bond.
Purification: After synthesis, the product is purified through various techniques to remove any unreacted materials and impurities.
Quality Control: The final product undergoes a series of quality control tests to ensure its purity, efficacy, and safety. These tests can include measurements of pH, viscosity, and microbial content.

Applications

Cosmetic Products: Widely used as an emulsifier in creams, lotions, and makeup, Polyglyceryl-3 Di-Hydroxystearate helps to mix oil and water components, improving product stability and texture.
Skin Care: It is utilized in skincare products for its moisturizing properties and its ability to form a barrier on the skin, which can help to prevent moisture loss.
Sunscreen Products: Often found in sunscreens due to its ability to enhance the formulation's resistance to water and sweat.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Polyglyceryl-3 Di-Hydroxystearate is considered safe for cosmetic use and is generally regarded as non-irritating and non-toxic. It is also biodegradable, making it environmentally friendly. However, as with all cosmetic ingredients, it is advisable to use this compound in formulations within the recommended concentrations to avoid potential skin sensitivity.

INCI


Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Surfactant - Emulsifying agent. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable and are used to soothe or soften the skin and emulsify, so they need a specific, stabilising ingredient. This ingredient forms a film, lowers the surface tension and makes two immiscible liquids miscible. A very important factor affecting the stability of the emulsion is the amount of the emulsifying agent. Emulsifiers have the property of reducing the oil/water or water/oil interfacial tension, improving the stability of the emulsion and also directly influencing the stability, sensory properties and surface tension of sunscreens by modulating the filmometric performance.

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

Surfactant - Cleansing agent. Cosmetic products used to cleanse the skin utilise the surface-active action that produces a lowering of the surface tension of the stratum corneum, facilitating the removal of dirt and impurities.
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