REVIEW
Description

admin (19653 pt) • 2022-Dec-18 11:00
Hydrogenated Plukenetia volubilis seed oil is a modified form of Plukenetia volubilis seed oil, commonly known as Sacha Inchi oil. The hydrogenation process converts the liquid oil into a more solid and stable form, enhancing its shelf life and texture. This oil is used in cosmetics and personal care products for its emollient and stabilizing properties.
Chemical Composition and Structure
Hydrogenated Plukenetia volubilis seed oil contains:
Hydrogenated Fatty Acids: The essential fatty acids in the oil are partially hydrogenated, improving stability and texture.
Proteins: Although present in lower amounts compared to non-hydrogenated oil, the oil may contain traces of proteins beneficial for the skin.
Polyphenols: Antioxidant compounds that may be partially preserved during hydrogenation.
Vitamins: The oil retains a good amount of vitamins, such as vitamin E, even after hydrogenation.
The chemical structure of the hydrogenated oil is characterized by the transformation of unsaturated fatty acids into saturated fatty acids, resulting in a more solid and stable product.
Physical Properties
Hydrogenated Plukenetia volubilis seed oil exhibits the following physical properties:
Appearance: Typically a solid or semi-solid substance at room temperature, ranging from light yellow to golden in color.
Aroma: Mild, slightly nutty fragrance, similar to that of non-hydrogenated oil.
Texture: Solid or semi-solid, with a consistency that may vary depending on the degree of hydrogenation.
Production Process
The production process for hydrogenated Plukenetia volubilis seed oil involves several steps:
Cultivation: Plukenetia volubilis plants are grown, and the seeds are harvested when mature.
Seed Preparation: The seeds are cleaned and prepared for oil extraction.
Oil Extraction:
Cold Pressing: Seeds are mechanically pressed at low temperatures to extract the oil.
Solvent Extraction: Alternatively, solvents such as hexane or ethanol may be used to extract the oil from the seeds.
Hydrogenation: The extracted oil is treated with hydrogen in the presence of a catalyst to convert unsaturated fatty acids into saturated fatty acids, enhancing stability and modifying the texture of the oil.
Purification: The hydrogenated oil is purified to remove any residual impurities and catalyst residues.
Formulation: The hydrogenated Plukenetia volubilis seed oil is incorporated into cosmetic formulations and other products, mixed with other ingredients to create the final products.
Quality Control: The final oil undergoes quality control testing to ensure it meets safety, purity, and performance standards.
Storage: The oil is stored in airtight containers to prevent contamination and extend the product's shelf life.
Applications
Medical: Hydrogenated Plukenetia volubilis seed oil is less commonly used in medical applications but may be included in supplements for its nutritional content.
Cosmetics: In the cosmetic industry, the hydrogenated oil is valued for its ability to improve product texture and stability. It is used in creams, lotions, and balms for its emollient and moisturizing properties.
Other: The oil can also be used in other personal care products and specific applications where enhanced product stability is required.
Environmental and Safety Considerations
Hydrogenated Plukenetia volubilis seed oil is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics and supplements when used according to recommended guidelines. Sustainable agricultural practices and eco-friendly production methods help minimize environmental impact. Proper quality control is essential to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.
INCI
Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.
Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
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