REVIEW
Description

admin (19653 pt) • 2022-Dec-18 11:00
Plukenetia volubilis seed oil, also known as Sacha Inchi oil, is extracted from the seeds of the Plukenetia volubilis plant, which belongs to the Euphorbiaceae family. This oil is used in cosmetics and personal care products for its rich nutrient profile and hydrating properties.
Chemical Composition and Structure
Plukenetia volubilis seed oil contains several key bioactive compounds, including:
Fatty acids: Rich in essential fatty acids such as alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), linoleic acid, and oleic acid, which support skin hydration and barrier function.
Proteins: The oil contains proteins that provide amino acids beneficial for skin repair and regeneration.
Polyphenols: Antioxidant compounds that help protect the skin from oxidative stress and environmental damage.
Vitamins: Including vitamin E, which has antioxidant properties and supports skin health.
The chemical structure of the oil is characterized by its balance of fatty acids, proteins, polyphenols, and vitamins, which contribute to its beneficial effects on the skin.
Physical Properties
Plukenetia volubilis seed oil exhibits the following physical properties:
Appearance: Typically a liquid, ranging from light yellow to golden in color, depending on refinement.
Aroma: A mild, slightly nutty fragrance.
Texture: Smooth and oily, with a consistency that may vary depending on the concentration and formulation.
Production Process
The production process for Plukenetia volubilis seed oil involves several key steps:
Cultivation: Plukenetia volubilis plants are grown for their seeds, which are harvested when mature.
Seed Preparation: The seeds are cleaned and prepared for oil extraction.
Oil Extraction:
Cold Pressing: Seeds are mechanically pressed at low temperatures to extract the oil, preserving the integrity of the bioactive compounds.
Solvent Extraction: Alternatively, solvents such as hexane or ethanol may be used to extract the oil from seeds, followed by solvent removal to obtain the pure oil.
Purification: The oil is purified to remove impurities, which may include filtration and degumming processes.
Formulation: The purified oil is incorporated into cosmetic formulations or dietary supplements, mixed with other ingredients to create final products.
Quality Control: The final oil undergoes quality control testing to ensure it meets safety, purity, and performance standards, including tests for contaminants, potency, and stability.
Storage: The oil is stored in airtight, opaque containers to protect it from light and oxidation, thereby extending its shelf life.
Applications
Medical: Plukenetia volubilis seed oil may be used in dietary supplements for its nutritional and antioxidant benefits, including support for cardiovascular health and inflammation reduction.
Cosmetics: In the cosmetic industry, the oil is valued for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It is used in a variety of products, including creams, lotions, and serums, to enhance skin hydration, elasticity, and overall appearance.
Other: The oil can also be utilized in other personal care products and specific therapeutic applications.
Environmental and Safety Considerations
Plukenetia volubilis seed oil is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics and dietary supplements when used according to recommended guidelines. Sustainable agricultural practices and eco-friendly extraction methods help minimize environmental impact. Proper quality control measures are essential to ensure the product's safety and efficacy.
INCI
Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.
Humectant. Hygroscopic compound used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: horny, the most superficial, granular, spinous, shiny, and basal. Humectants have the ability to retain the water they attract from the air in the stratum corneum and have the function of moisturising the skin. They are best used before emollients, which are oil-based.
Skin protectant. It creates a protective barrier on the skin to defend it from harmful substances, irritants, allergens, pathogens that can cause various inflammatory conditions. These products can also improve the natural skin barrier and in most cases more than one is needed to achieve an effective result.
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