Description

Rubus coreanus root extract: pros and cons, INCI functions and safety

General description

Rubus Coreanus Root Extract is an extract obtained from the roots of Rubus coreanus, a plant belonging to the Rosaceae family. The extract is valued for its functional and bioactive properties, which support its use mainly in cosmetics and in medical/traditional contexts. Its complex phytochemical profile makes it of interest for formulations aimed at protection, soothing, and supporting skin physiology.

Chemical composition and structure

The chemical composition of Rubus Coreanus Root Extract includes a variety of bioactive compounds responsible for its functional properties:

• Flavonoids: compounds with a phenolic structure, associated with antioxidant activity

• Tannins: complex polyphenols with astringent activity

• Phenolic acids: aromatic molecules with hydroxyl groups, contributing to oxidative stability

• Saponins: glycosides with potential soothing and cleansing effects

• Alkaloids: nitrogen-containing compounds, typically in trace amounts, with targeted biological activity

Physical properties

Rubus Coreanus Root Extract generally presents as:

• Appearance: liquid ranging from pale yellow to brown

• Odor: mild and earthy, characteristic

• Taste: slightly bitter, attributed to tannins and alkaloids

• pH: typically 4.5 to 7.0, from slightly acidic to neutral

• Solubility: water-soluble, readily incorporable into aqueous systems

Production process

The production of Rubus Coreanus Root Extract involves a controlled sequence of steps:

• Harvesting and selection of Rubus coreanus roots

• Cleaning to remove soil and contaminants

• Drying to reduce moisture content

• Crushing and maceration to promote the release of active compounds

• Extraction using water or water-based solvents

• Filtration and purification to remove solids and impurities

• Concentration (optional) to increase the level of active constituents

• Sterilization of the final product to ensure microbiological safety

Applications

Medicine

Rubus Coreanus Root Extract is used in traditional medicine for its:

• Anti-inflammatory properties

• Antioxidant activity

• Antimicrobial effects

It is used to address gastrointestinal issues, infections, and skin inflammations.

Cosmetics

In cosmetics, it is valued for:

• Soothing effects

• Anti-inflammatory activity

• Rejuvenating properties

It is commonly included in face creams, serums, lotions, and masks.

Other uses

• Personal care products (shampoos, conditioners), due to soothing and antimicrobial properties.

INCI functions

• Skin conditioning agent

It plays a central role in topical treatments by helping to restore, improve, and maintain skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance.
Its primary function is the prevention of skin dehydration, working in synergy with emollients and humectants that may be present in the formulation.

Environmental and safety considerations

Environmental impact

The production of Rubus Coreanus Root Extract generally has a low environmental impact, especially when paired with sustainable agricultural practices. The use of natural or aqueous solvents helps minimize the release of harmful chemicals into the environment.

Safety

The extract is considered safe for topical and oral use at concentrations typically used in consumer products. It is essential to ensure:

• Absence of contaminants and pathogens

• Microbiological control

Allergic reactions are rare, but cannot be entirely excluded, particularly in sensitive individuals.

For more information and studies:

Rubus coreanus