Description

Shea Butter Polyglyceryl-4 Esters are derived from the esterification of shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii) with polyglyceryl-4, resulting in a mixture of fatty acid esters. These esters are widely used in the cosmetic and personal care industry for their emulsifying, moisturizing, and skin-conditioning properties.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Shea Butter Polyglyceryl-4 Esters contain a variety of bioactive compounds that contribute to their beneficial properties:

Fatty Acids: Including stearic acid, oleic acid, and linoleic acid, which provide moisturizing and skin-conditioning benefits.
Polyglyceryl-4: Enhances the hydrating and emulsifying properties of the esters.
Vitamins: Such as Vitamin A and Vitamin E, which are beneficial for skin health.
Phytosterols: Contribute to the anti-inflammatory and healing properties of the esters.
Triterpenes: Known for their anti-inflammatory and skin-healing properties.
Physical Properties
Shea Butter Polyglyceryl-4 Esters typically appear as a creamy, white to light yellow substance with a smooth texture. They are soluble in both water and oils, making them suitable for various cosmetic formulations such as lotions, creams, and emulsions. The esters have a mild, characteristic scent of shea butter.

Cosmetic and Personal Care Applications

Emulsifying: Helps to blend oil and water phases in formulations, creating stable emulsions.

Moisturizing: Helps to maintain skin hydration, preventing dryness and promoting softness.

Skin Conditioning: Improves the texture and appearance of the skin, making it smoother and healthier.

Emollient: Provides a smooth and soft feel to the skin, improving its texture and appearance.

Anti-inflammatory: Reduces redness, swelling, and irritation associated with various skin conditions.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Shea Butter Polyglyceryl-4 Esters are generally considered safe for use in cosmetic and personal care products when used within recommended concentrations. Sustainable harvesting practices are essential to ensure the preservation of shea trees and their natural habitats. Proper formulation and testing ensure their safety and efficacy in end products.

Cosmetics - INCI Functions


Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Emulsion stabiliser. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable. Emulsion stabilisers improve the formation and stability of single and double emulsions. as well as their shelf-life. It should be noted that in the structure-function relationship, the molar mass of the ingredient used plays an important role.

Hair conditioning agent. A significant number of ingredients with specific and targeted purposes may co-exist in hair shampoo formulations: cleansers, conditioners, thickeners, matting agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, special additives. However, the indispensable ingredients are the cleansers and conditioners as they are necessary and sufficient for hair cleansing and manageability. The others act as commercial and non-essential auxiliaries such as: appearance, fragrance, colouring, etc. Hair conditioning agents have the task of increasing shine, manageability and volume, and reducing static electricity, especially after treatments such as colouring, ironing, waving, drying and brushing. They are, in practice, dispersants that may contain cationic surfactants, thickeners, emollients, polymers. The typology of hair conditioning agents includes: intensive conditioners, instant conditioners, thickening conditioners, drying conditioners. They can perform their task generally accompanied by other different ingredients.
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